Thomas & Betts SC100RR Carlon Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Thomas & Betts

Is this Cheap?

June 11, 2019 - The best price we've seen on Amazon in the past 12 months was on September 28, 2018. The current price is considered low, it is 33% higher than the cost at its lowest.

Table of Contents

currently low price

36% Drop

Updated June 11, 2019

Price Checks

Current price is higher than the price on Oct 18, 2018.
Current price is low in the past 12 months.
Used not available currently.

Price Activity

DatePrice ActionChange %Price Level
11 Jun, 2019Price Drop-35.75%low
4 Jun, 2019Price Increase33.13%high
30 May, 2019Price Drop-24.89%average
24 May, 2019Price Increase33.13%high
16 May, 2019Price Drop-20.76%average
Update on 11 Jun, 2019 price change % swings above and below average price

Showing: Area under 0 show price is cheaper than average. Above 0 shows higher price than average.

Product Details

  • Sold on
  • B000W09PQI Amazon ASIN
  • Thomas & Betts Brand
  • Categories

    Tools & Home Improvement, Electrical Boxes, Conduit & Fittings, Electrical, Brackets

Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 9 Reviews
  • March 13, 2018 Last Review Date
  • Nov. 25, 2014 First Seen Review Date
  • 5 Reviewed on Subreddits

    HomeImprovement (3)
    HomeNetworking (3)
    BudgetAudiophile (1)
    DIY (1)
    hometheater (1)

Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

Does your home audio setup look nice? Have a picture? [R]

1 year, 3 months agoXxRUDYTUDYxX posted submission on BudgetAudiophile.
March 13, 2018

My wife is scared that my dreams for a 5.1 system in our 13' x 13' room will make the place look cluttered and techy. How do I conceal a subwoofer and hide rear speaker wires in the cracks on the walls? What are some pro tips for making wires and equipment disappear?

1 year, 3 months agoXxRUDYTUDYxX posted comment on BudgetAudiophile.
March 13, 2018

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

Am I buying the correct Cat6a Plugs [R]

1 year, 3 months agodbcoopers_alt posted submission on HomeNetworking.
March 8, 2018

I'm running some Cat6a wiring in my house and the plugs won't fit through an opening that I need to pass through. I am going to cut the plugs off and crimp on new termination points after I've completed my run. However, I'm not sure I'm ordering the correct parts.

I have this cable and I was going to order these plugs and this crimp tool.

Can someone let me know if I've picked the right parts? I'm worried I've misunderstood something in my research and would feel better having someone smarter than me give me the all clear. Do I need to buy Cat6a plugs or are Cat6 the same?

1 year, 3 months agodbcoopers_alt posted comment on HomeNetworking.
March 8, 2018

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Can I remove this old telephone jack/connecter, or need a pro to do it? [R]

1 year, 3 months agoFeb. 18, 2018


1 year, 3 months agoecNate posted comment on HomeImprovement.
Feb. 19, 2018

Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.

I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (, just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.

Home Network Help [R]

2 years, 7 months agochubbysumo posted submission on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

Hi! Really shocked that I have this question even after reading a ton of articles etc., but I'm stuck and hoping for help.

My "old" NetGear router NetGear Nighthawk R7000) died recently. I'm looking to replace it while trying to future-proof it as much as possible. Besides the numerous phones (family of 7), IoT items, and laptops, I also have two XBoxes and two playstations used for gaming. I'm in an old house, which means thick walls, old electrical (killing Powerline options), and no ethernet wiring.

The R7000 was good for most of the laptops, phones, etc, but we often got drops from the gaming machines - The kids like playing online games. I also know that none of them had "4 bar" connections, the house configuration prevented that unfortunately.

I'm presently considering the Amplifi HD mesh product to help with the home coverage, but I wonder if I'd be better off spending that $350 on a modern MU-MIMO router, with the better antennas reaching the gaming boxes better.

Willing to spend up to about $350 - The savings in angst from listening to complaints of "going linkdead" are well worth the cost if the product will last. :)

Any thoughts on a consumer wifi product with range / power to meet the gaming needs (as I mentioned, the laptops / phones have had no issues I can speak of)? Is the Amplifi a good idea even being at my max price point - I like that it is very much "hands-off" but wonder if the lack of MU-MIMO limits its viability long-term.

Thanks in advance for any help!

P.S. My kids dont really complain that much, but the complaints are valid - I've had it happen during Call of Duty enough to know they're not exaggerating. :)

P.P.S. I know wiring cat5 would really be the best solution, but I think the cost and angst of getting that done (drilling and threading through walls and floors here would be rough without hiring someone I think - Or without making a mess of the plaster walls lol). Hoping there is a good wifi solution to try before heading that route.

2 years, 7 months agochubbysumo posted on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 5, 2016

> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)

Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.

Setting up small home network. Any tips before I start? (list of items I plan on buying) [R]

2 years, 7 months agophr0ze posted submission on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

My modem & router are in the living room. My goal is to wire three other rooms in the house. I am planning on doing CAT6 to 'future proof' my house.

Any help appreciated. I'm new to networking.

Current setup:

  • ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
  • Mac Airport Extreme
  • Cox cable - 300 MBPs plan (hoping we get fiber soon in Oklahoma)

Currently on my buy list:

I don't have many ethernet ports in the back of my Airport Extreme. Figured I could run one from the Airport Extreme to the Switcher. Would this work/be a good idea?

2 years, 7 months agophr0ze posted on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

And don't forget these things:

Subwoofer Wiring Question/Issues [R]

3 years, 5 months agoboostnma posted submission on hometheater.
Jan. 14, 2016

I'm in the process of finishing my basement. I've learned a lot from this subreddit and hope to have something to show you guys soon! I'm an also a novice at this I apologize for any possible misinformation or errors in my inquiry.

Before the drywall was put up, I made sure to spread out the speaker wires for a 7.1 set up. I should note I'm only currently using 5.1 set up.

  • My receiver is Denon AVR-X1200W. The back looks like this. I assume Subwoofer 1 and 2 are for 2 separate subwoofers since this receiver is capable of 7.2 set up. I only have 1 subwoofer.

  • My subwoofer is Klipsch R-10SW. Its a 300 watt subwoofer and the back looks like this.

So here is my issue.

  • I only have regular speaker wires running through out the basement.
  • However both the receiver and subwoofer look to be RCA.
  • Because now my drywalls are up, there is no easy way to get RCA cables in behind the walls unfortunately.
  • Subwoofer has Left and Right RCA slots. How do I go from one RCA slot in receiver to two in subwoofer? I also thought one RCA wire has two internal wires: one for ground.
  • How do I go from speaker wire to RCA connection?

Thank you guys for your help in advance. I'm pretty lost here so I'd appreciate any input.

3 years, 4 months agoboostnma posted on hometheater.
Jan. 17, 2016

3 options 1. Connect rca lead to speaker wire ends. 2. Use an inwall subwoofer or a subwoofer with an external amp. 3. Remove the baseboard (if its installed yet). Use a multitool to cut a 1" channel behind the baseboard into the drywall. Then run a single rca in the channel and 20" or so (outlet height) up inside the wall on both sides. Pop out of the wall with old work low voltage boxes. Replace the baseboard to hide the wire. I run a level line/channel about 2" off the floor and be cautious not to nail into the wire when replacing the baseboard. Drywall is 1/2 thick, which is large enough for the cable. Multi-tool


Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Fishing a wire that doesn't want to be fished [R]

3 years, 5 months agoJustNilt posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Dec. 17, 2015

So I'm trying to run an ethernet line through my basement and up through the wall into an ethernet jack I'll be installing in the wall here:

That opening was cut, and blue outlet box installed, by the previous owners. There was also a hole cut in the basement ceiling in what I think is the exact right spot, so I'm 99% sure they had some kind of cable running up from the basement to this outlet in the past, though when I moved in there was just an outlet cover with no wiring.

The issue is that I can't seem to get my fish tape from there into the hole. I've been trying for probably 45 minutes now, with no luck. There's only a small opening at the back of the blue box, and I think that's what's killing me, because I can't vary my angle much at all when fishing the tape down. But the hole in the basement ceiling is small, long, and generally difficult to get to because it's above the foundation wall, so fishing up from there is basically a no-go. do I proceed? It seems like I might want/have to remove the blue box, but it's wedged in there very tightly and I can't find any evidence of anything that's holding it in: no screws to unscrew or anything like that. Alternatively maybe I could widen the hole in the basement ceiling, but to do that I'd need to buy a drill and the proper bit, and even then it'd be a pretty tough angle to drill from.

So, how do I remove the blue box? Or is there some better way to fish the cable? Or should I just call in a professional (and who would I even call for this sort of thing?).

3 years, 5 months agoJustNilt posted on HomeImprovement.
Dec. 17, 2015

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

Help fixing a wall jack. [R]

3 years, 11 months agoSafetyMan35 posted submission on HomeImprovement.
June 28, 2015

My current wall jack has been falling out, and I can't screw it back in. It doesn't stick to the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions? Here's what it looks like:



3 years, 11 months agoSafetyMan35 posted on HomeImprovement.
June 29, 2015

Replace the old white "box" with something like this:

Available at most home improvement stores.

Tips on retrofitting a power/hdmi port for a wall hung tv [R]

4 years, 6 months agomedic8388 posted submission on DIY.
Nov. 25, 2014

Anyone have any tips of guides on how I can retrofit a box in the wall for powering a TV I intend to hang on the wall? I would also like to run an HDMI port to the area. Can I use the same junction box or would having the power and video in the same box introduce interference?

4 years, 6 months agomedic8388 posted on DIY.
Nov. 25, 2014

Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.