Thomas & Betts SC100RR Carlon Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Last Updated On Tuesday June 30th, 2020
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Thomas & Betts

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DatePrice ActionChange %Price Level
5 Jun, 2020Price Increase9.15%low
4 Jun, 2020Price Drop-8.39%low
21 May, 2020Price Increase9.15%low
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31 Mar, 2020Price Increase9.15%low
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Recommended in homelab

Thomas & Betts SC100RR Carlon Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Product Details

  • Sold on
  • B000W09PQI Amazon ASIN
  • Thomas & Betts Brand
  • Categories

    Tools & Home Improvement, Electrical Boxes, Conduit & Fittings, Electrical, Brackets

Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 14 Reviews
  • May 20, 2020 Last Review Date
  • Nov. 25, 2014 First Seen Review Date
  • 7 Reviewed on Subreddits

    HomeImprovement (4)
    HomeNetworking (3)
    homelab (3)
    BudgetAudiophile (1)
    DIY (1)
    battlestations (1)
    hometheater (1)

Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

How do you run ethernet across the house to your homelabs (properly)? [R]

1 month, 1 week agoandre_vauban posted submission on homelab.
May 18, 2020

It had never really accorded to me until now how dependent I had been on WiFi, but now that I have a gigabit fiber connection, and I’m looking to put a proper firewall over my network, I’d like to actually run my stuff on Ethernet.

I’d been planning on this for a while, but when I attempted to run a cable under my house myself, it went hilariously wrong. It was a struggle getting the holes drilled, crawling around, but I eventually got it through only to fail miserably at crimping. I tried every tool they had at Lowe’s, but after several hours I just outright gave up, and don’t judge me, I ended up just cutting a working plug off of an existing Ethernet cable and just soldering that wire by wire onto the cat cable I’d run because that was honestly easier. It works, but the losses are substantially enough that my WiFi outruns it, rendering my gigabit connection useless.

I’m down to either do it myself (within reason) or get a contractor, either is fine, but my problem is that I can’t find any leads on either. Do people’s houses just come with this preinstalled, their ISP does it for them (mine won’t, tried that), or is it a common thing that people just do it themselves?

Help with coaxial passthrough on early 1960’s brick home in SW US. [R]

4 months agonerdburg posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Feb. 29, 2020

I’m looking to bring a coaxial cable through my exterior wall because my router has been dangling outside since I bought the home in November. I want to do it right, but I have limited experience. The only thing that is giving me pause is that I’d like to have a wall plate on the interior where the coax passes through the wall, but the interior wall feels much denser than typical drywall so I don’t really want to add a j-box. Is it possible to add a wall plate without a j-box?

TL;DR can I install a coax wall plate without a j-box?

Ps. Forgive my ignorance of proper lingo, all information is welcome.

4 months agonerdburg posted comment on HomeImprovement.
Feb. 29, 2020

The proper way to do that is with an low voltage old work junction box:

And a single port coax faceplate.

Storming outside, but not in here. [R]

5 months, 3 weeks agoshadoon posted submission on battlestations.
Jan. 11, 2020
5 months, 3 weeks agoshadoon posted comment on battlestations.
Jan. 11, 2020

It's relatively easy depending on if you're against an interior or exterior wall. If interior (ie. no insulation) mount your panel, plan where you want the cable to come in and out, and then you'll need low voltage wall brackets and some wall plates to match. You'll cut a hole in the wall for the bracket, fish the cable(s) through with a fishing wire and then put your wall plate on to finish the look and prevent any cabling from falling back through.

To note though, this isn't for actual power. These things are for low voltage applications only and should not be used for power cables. For that, you should look at adding an outlet behind the panel/mount/desk/whatever, and then plugging the power cable directly into that. The only power cable in your walls should be NM-12 or NM-14 romex style cable. Anything else is a fire hazard, no matter what anyone else says.

Mounting a rack server on a wall [R]

8 months, 3 weeks agoadam1schuler posted submission on homelab.
Oct. 10, 2019

I have a Dell R730. I don’t have a rack yet for it. I was thinking of picking up a used one or build a LackRack. But a friend of mind told me that he has mounted his rack server on a wall with some kind of brackets which is parallel to the wall (not perpendicular).

Do people do that? What connectors do I need to mount a single server to a wall?

Thanks in advance!

8 months, 3 weeks agoadam1schuler posted comment on homelab.
Oct. 11, 2019

I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.

I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck

I am buying a new build and requested CAT6 cabling with 2x outlet into each room & garage to Roof Space and 3x Outlet between Consumer Cupboard and Roof Space. Will a 24 port patch panel and 24 port Gi switch be ok temperature-wise in a new build attic in the UK? Topology below excluding IoT & WiFi. [R]

10 months, 3 weeks agojareau posted submission on homelab.
Aug. 10, 2019
10 months, 3 weeks agojareau posted comment on homelab.
Aug. 12, 2019

Since you're working with a new build, and assuming the contractors are already running other Ethernet cables for you, they would probably approach this task like any other low-voltage electrical task.

Chances are they'll run the Ethernet cable for you, and install a low-voltage electrical box in your chosen location. You'll be left with a square-ish hole in the wall, a plastic electrical box inside, and an Ethernet cable fished through it.

This is where you need to get specific with them.

Choose the location wisely.

You decide where you'll get the best signal, nicely spaced between recessed lighting, centered above a door on the wall, in-line with the smoke detector (are you going with hard-wired Nest, yes?), not behind the blades of a ceiling fan, etc.

Contractors shouldn't have a problem doing that. But you have to be specific with them - don't let them make decisions for you. The worst is seeing a misaligned permanent fixture in your house. I hate that my smoke detectors are carelessly aligned. They're hard wired, so changing electrical boxes in the ceiling because of aesthetics is not happening.

I think contractors are bound by code to put in a low-voltage electrical box, so they might not be able to leave a lose cable just poking down from the ceiling or out of a wall.

Also, you probably only need a single-gang electrical box. The doubles might be too big to cover later.

Now, the electrical box can pose a problem for you based on your WiFi product choice. Two things: attaching the product to the electrical box, and, the need for a PoE splitter.

First, the Google WiFi does not plugin directly into a low-voltage box. It wasn't designed with those screw holes in mind. So you'll be searching for a ceiling or wall mount, and trying to figure out how to screw the mount into the low-voltage box. I doubt there are mounts that have been designed with this application in mind. Most of them are simple wall mount. This is where you'll have to get creative.

This the mount I have:

I drilled a hole in the flat back wall-plate, ran my cables through the hole and into the wall, and then just screwed the plate against the wall. Looks nice and clean. But I did not have a low-voltage electrical box to work with. I had a hole in the wall with 2 cables coming out: the Ethernet cable and the USB-C power cable (the power splitter is in the wall).

I think you should be able to drill into the back plate of that mount I linked to, and screw into the electrical box -- the Google WiFi is larger than a 1 gang low voltage electrical box.

Second, the PoE Splitter. I have Google WiFi, which does not have PoE capabilities. I had to purchase a USB-C PoE Splitter. In my case, I have that sitting inside the wall. In your case, you won't be able to fit the splitter inside of the low-voltage electrical box, so you'll be in a jam when trying to power your unit.

If your contractors use this:

you can unscrew it, slide it out, You'd be left with a clean hole in the wall/ceiling. And then you could slide a PoE splitter up in the ceiling or in the wall.

But, if they use something like this:

then you won't (easily) be able to do that.

Otherwise, I'm not sure if there are Mesh WiFi products out there that have true PoE capabilities, and also screw directly into an electrical box. If so, and that works for you, then great. But if not, give some thought to where you mount, how you mount, what the contractors are leaving you with, and how you'll deliver power to the WiFi units.

Hope this helps.

Does your home audio setup look nice? Have a picture? [R]

2 years, 3 months agoXxRUDYTUDYxX posted submission on BudgetAudiophile.
March 13, 2018

My wife is scared that my dreams for a 5.1 system in our 13' x 13' room will make the place look cluttered and techy. How do I conceal a subwoofer and hide rear speaker wires in the cracks on the walls? What are some pro tips for making wires and equipment disappear?

2 years, 3 months agoXxRUDYTUDYxX posted comment on BudgetAudiophile.
March 13, 2018

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

Am I buying the correct Cat6a Plugs [R]

2 years, 3 months agodbcoopers_alt posted submission on HomeNetworking.
March 8, 2018

I'm running some Cat6a wiring in my house and the plugs won't fit through an opening that I need to pass through. I am going to cut the plugs off and crimp on new termination points after I've completed my run. However, I'm not sure I'm ordering the correct parts.

I have this cable and I was going to order these plugs and this crimp tool.

Can someone let me know if I've picked the right parts? I'm worried I've misunderstood something in my research and would feel better having someone smarter than me give me the all clear. Do I need to buy Cat6a plugs or are Cat6 the same?

2 years, 3 months agodbcoopers_alt posted comment on HomeNetworking.
March 8, 2018

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Can I remove this old telephone jack/connecter, or need a pro to do it? [R]

2 years, 4 months agoFeb. 18, 2018


2 years, 4 months agoecNate posted comment on HomeImprovement.
Feb. 19, 2018

Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.

I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (, just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.

Home Network Help [R]

3 years, 8 months agochubbysumo posted submission on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

Hi! Really shocked that I have this question even after reading a ton of articles etc., but I'm stuck and hoping for help.

My "old" NetGear router NetGear Nighthawk R7000) died recently. I'm looking to replace it while trying to future-proof it as much as possible. Besides the numerous phones (family of 7), IoT items, and laptops, I also have two XBoxes and two playstations used for gaming. I'm in an old house, which means thick walls, old electrical (killing Powerline options), and no ethernet wiring.

The R7000 was good for most of the laptops, phones, etc, but we often got drops from the gaming machines - The kids like playing online games. I also know that none of them had "4 bar" connections, the house configuration prevented that unfortunately.

I'm presently considering the Amplifi HD mesh product to help with the home coverage, but I wonder if I'd be better off spending that $350 on a modern MU-MIMO router, with the better antennas reaching the gaming boxes better.

Willing to spend up to about $350 - The savings in angst from listening to complaints of "going linkdead" are well worth the cost if the product will last. :)

Any thoughts on a consumer wifi product with range / power to meet the gaming needs (as I mentioned, the laptops / phones have had no issues I can speak of)? Is the Amplifi a good idea even being at my max price point - I like that it is very much "hands-off" but wonder if the lack of MU-MIMO limits its viability long-term.

Thanks in advance for any help!

P.S. My kids dont really complain that much, but the complaints are valid - I've had it happen during Call of Duty enough to know they're not exaggerating. :)

P.P.S. I know wiring cat5 would really be the best solution, but I think the cost and angst of getting that done (drilling and threading through walls and floors here would be rough without hiring someone I think - Or without making a mess of the plaster walls lol). Hoping there is a good wifi solution to try before heading that route.

3 years, 7 months agochubbysumo posted on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 5, 2016

> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)

Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.

Setting up small home network. Any tips before I start? (list of items I plan on buying) [R]

3 years, 8 months agophr0ze posted submission on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

My modem & router are in the living room. My goal is to wire three other rooms in the house. I am planning on doing CAT6 to 'future proof' my house.

Any help appreciated. I'm new to networking.

Current setup:

  • ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
  • Mac Airport Extreme
  • Cox cable - 300 MBPs plan (hoping we get fiber soon in Oklahoma)

Currently on my buy list:

I don't have many ethernet ports in the back of my Airport Extreme. Figured I could run one from the Airport Extreme to the Switcher. Would this work/be a good idea?

3 years, 8 months agophr0ze posted on HomeNetworking.
Nov. 3, 2016

And don't forget these things:

Subwoofer Wiring Question/Issues [R]

4 years, 5 months agoboostnma posted submission on hometheater.
Jan. 14, 2016

I'm in the process of finishing my basement. I've learned a lot from this subreddit and hope to have something to show you guys soon! I'm an also a novice at this I apologize for any possible misinformation or errors in my inquiry.

Before the drywall was put up, I made sure to spread out the speaker wires for a 7.1 set up. I should note I'm only currently using 5.1 set up.

  • My receiver is Denon AVR-X1200W. The back looks like this. I assume Subwoofer 1 and 2 are for 2 separate subwoofers since this receiver is capable of 7.2 set up. I only have 1 subwoofer.

  • My subwoofer is Klipsch R-10SW. Its a 300 watt subwoofer and the back looks like this.

So here is my issue.

  • I only have regular speaker wires running through out the basement.
  • However both the receiver and subwoofer look to be RCA.
  • Because now my drywalls are up, there is no easy way to get RCA cables in behind the walls unfortunately.
  • Subwoofer has Left and Right RCA slots. How do I go from one RCA slot in receiver to two in subwoofer? I also thought one RCA wire has two internal wires: one for ground.
  • How do I go from speaker wire to RCA connection?

Thank you guys for your help in advance. I'm pretty lost here so I'd appreciate any input.

4 years, 5 months agoboostnma posted on hometheater.
Jan. 17, 2016

3 options 1. Connect rca lead to speaker wire ends. 2. Use an inwall subwoofer or a subwoofer with an external amp. 3. Remove the baseboard (if its installed yet). Use a multitool to cut a 1" channel behind the baseboard into the drywall. Then run a single rca in the channel and 20" or so (outlet height) up inside the wall on both sides. Pop out of the wall with old work low voltage boxes. Replace the baseboard to hide the wire. I run a level line/channel about 2" off the floor and be cautious not to nail into the wire when replacing the baseboard. Drywall is 1/2 thick, which is large enough for the cable. Multi-tool


Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Fishing a wire that doesn't want to be fished [R]

4 years, 6 months agoJustNilt posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Dec. 17, 2015

So I'm trying to run an ethernet line through my basement and up through the wall into an ethernet jack I'll be installing in the wall here:

That opening was cut, and blue outlet box installed, by the previous owners. There was also a hole cut in the basement ceiling in what I think is the exact right spot, so I'm 99% sure they had some kind of cable running up from the basement to this outlet in the past, though when I moved in there was just an outlet cover with no wiring.

The issue is that I can't seem to get my fish tape from there into the hole. I've been trying for probably 45 minutes now, with no luck. There's only a small opening at the back of the blue box, and I think that's what's killing me, because I can't vary my angle much at all when fishing the tape down. But the hole in the basement ceiling is small, long, and generally difficult to get to because it's above the foundation wall, so fishing up from there is basically a no-go. do I proceed? It seems like I might want/have to remove the blue box, but it's wedged in there very tightly and I can't find any evidence of anything that's holding it in: no screws to unscrew or anything like that. Alternatively maybe I could widen the hole in the basement ceiling, but to do that I'd need to buy a drill and the proper bit, and even then it'd be a pretty tough angle to drill from.

So, how do I remove the blue box? Or is there some better way to fish the cable? Or should I just call in a professional (and who would I even call for this sort of thing?).

4 years, 6 months agoJustNilt posted on HomeImprovement.
Dec. 17, 2015

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

Help fixing a wall jack. [R]

5 years agoSafetyMan35 posted submission on HomeImprovement.
June 28, 2015

My current wall jack has been falling out, and I can't screw it back in. It doesn't stick to the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions? Here's what it looks like:



5 years agoSafetyMan35 posted on HomeImprovement.
June 29, 2015

Replace the old white "box" with something like this:

Available at most home improvement stores.

Tips on retrofitting a power/hdmi port for a wall hung tv [R]

5 years, 7 months agomedic8388 posted submission on DIY.
Nov. 25, 2014

Anyone have any tips of guides on how I can retrofit a box in the wall for powering a TV I intend to hang on the wall? I would also like to run an HDMI port to the area. Can I use the same junction box or would having the power and video in the same box introduce interference?

5 years, 7 months agomedic8388 posted on DIY.
Nov. 25, 2014

Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.