|Date||Price Action||Change %||Price Level|
|19 Aug, 2019||Price Increase||51.32%||average|
|14 Aug, 2019||Price Increase||2.59%||low|
|13 Aug, 2019||Price Drop||-31.03%||low|
|17 Jul, 2019||Price Increase||46.48%||average|
|4 Jul, 2019||Price Drop||-25.23%||lowest|
Amazon.com price change % swings above and below average price
Best Alternative Recommendations
We also found 2 products that redditors have recommended that are the best alternative to this product or are related accessories.
Recommended in modelmakers
Recommended in XWingTMG
Discussion and Reviews on Reddit
What is the best spray on primer? [R]1 year, 2 months agoflatlinemaybe posted submission on minipainting.
June 10, 2018
Hello, I’m new to mini painting and wondering what the best spray on primer is. The reason I’d rather use spray on is because I don’t trust myself not to use too much paint on primer, which would distort the details (or so I’ve been told).
I have two questions: 1) which spray on primer is the best? A brand on Amazon would be preferable. 2) where is it safe to use it? For example, do I need to go outside when spraying it and do I need to cover my skin to protect it?
Thanks in advance!
June 10, 2018
Great primer. Never had any kind of skin reaction to it. Use it outside. It's spray paint dude.
Need guidance! [R]1 year, 3 months agowindupmonkeys posted submission on modelmakers.
May 3, 2018
First off thanks for your time and patience as I’m completely ignorant to this. So my brother is a relatively high functioning autistic super star. He is very very particular and extraordinarily talented at a few things. He like most crave repetition and things he can focus completely on. With that being said he has expressed a lot of interest in the Bandai Star Wars models and managed to order himself 3 death troopers and 4 shore troopers, I guess he needs a whole squad? Lol. So my question for you guys is what paints/primers would you guys use. He will want to do everything with a hand brush as well. I’ve read and looked at multiple videos. I’m A little confused on how the matte primers and gloss primers Work and when to use them. I guess I’m looking for a step by step break down of how to really paint these guys. I’d love any help and guidance you guys are willing to offer. I just want to make sure he has everything he needs to enjoy this. Thanks again!
May 3, 2018
Well, look. There's a simple and complex answer to your question:
The simple answer is: for a white stormtrooper, you want white primer. This is what is highly regarded: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-USA-TAM87044-Surface-Primer/dp/B0000WS01E
After that, you'd have him paint it white (using the vallejo paint), and black, or whatever color the joints are. You can also use gray as the primer, Tamiya makes it in that color, but for obvious reasons, it makes painting the white final layer harder.
Then I'd gloss coat it, in this case, using a wide brush and this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr13ait?ie=UTF8&qid=1525394737&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+floor+care
I recommend this stuff because it's one of the few gloss coatings that can be brush painted with relative ease. If there are decals, I'd apply them after the gloss coat dries.
Then, I'd apply the wash. There are several varieties, including prepacked versions:
Tamiya Panel Liner (But you'd need some kind of enamel or whatever thinner they recommend to remove the excess)
Or, more typical for many is an enamel wash (I think Mig AMMO makes those), or oil paint with turpenoid.
If you care about non-toxic (relatively speaking), watercolors will work in a pinch, but like I said, put a drop of alcohol or soap to break surface tension. It's not as good as oil paints for most people.
And then you can spray it with a final coat of matte varnish. I have an airbrush, so I'm partial to this stuff:
Again, it's one of the flat coatings that can be brush painted rather than sprayed, if you know what you're doing.
The way to think about primer and matte/gloss coating is this :
Primer: it's a layer of paint meant to provide an even substrate for the rest of the colors and everything else on top of it. (Tamiya spray primer is this)
Gloss coating: applied either because you want a shiny final object, or after the final colors have been applied, but prior to making it look old/applying washes. (Pledge Multi-surface Floor Care that I linked above is this.)
Matte coating: applied as the final coat because in real life, most objects aren't shiny. (Model Master Acrylic Flat is this)
All three come in spray and non-spray varieties. Future however is a household product with no spray version.
Need some pointers for PG Unicorn [R]2 years, 6 months agoTurtleshell64 posted submission on Gunpla.
Feb. 15, 2017
Never built a PG before and based on color, seems unicorn would be the "easiest", or least painting required. Just need a few questions answered before I start since I rather not mess something up first.
Is it necessary to wash the runners when taking it out of the box with soap? Or is that just one of the things people with OCD for a perfect gundam do?
When building with the LED kit is there an efficient way of wiring the LEDs along side building the model from scratch? Or any tips?
When applying the top coat, should I do it piece by piece? Or can i just spray everything while in unicorn mode? Mainly asking this because I rather not make the clear inner frame parts top coated.
Speaking of top coating, the paint application step would just be out of box -> paint colors (gold, silver, etc) -> 3 layers of flat coat?
One last question on flat top coating (sure are a lot of questions on this aspect), I know you start spraying away from the piece and go across it and stop away from the piece. Question is how long do you wait before doing a second layer? 24 hours? Never done top coating before so I don't want to overdo or not do enough.
Feb. 15, 2017
So for a frame like the PG strike freedom, if I wanted to paint the inner frame so that it isn't crap gold, I'd prime that and then spray it with gold paint? Can I do it with inner frame assembled or would that run the risk of the joints getting too stiff?
And does it matter what color the primer color is, be it gray or white? I assume the tamiya primer is ideal (as linked below):
And a side question, someone told me acrylic paint is ideal for beginners as its less of a pain to work with. However I assume this is regarding brush painting. I notice stuff like the tamiya gold spray is lacquer. Does it matter? And is it bad if you primer, lacquer gold, and then paint some sort of acrylic on top of the gold?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for taking the time to answer!
Actual cheaper alternative to Citadel Spray primer? [R]3 years agoMerendino posted submission on Warhammer40k.
Aug. 2, 2016
I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on painting supplies. I've recently finished my Blood Angels Army, and have been using a brush primer on them. It wasn't that great, but it was so much cheaper than the Citadel Spray Primer. Now, my problem is, my friend for my birthday got me a Skaven Starter kit so I can play Sigmar with him. This stuff is insanely complicated and super detailed, It would be practically impossible to paint the Screaming Bell without painting it first. And If i use the brush primer, it'll fill in all the details (like wood grains and cracks). So I figured might as well move onto spray primer to prime skaven and the rest of my blood angels. But literally every google search I get conflicting results, "oh use krylon fusion primer" "no don't fusion primer jsut use the krylon spray paint" "no krylon is meant for houses its too thick, use [generic brand at walmart that isn't made anymore]".
It's really frustrating, no one seems to give a definite answer
Aug. 3, 2016
I've been using Tamiya primer. I don't know if it's expensive comparatively to the Citadel stuff, but it's fantastic quality.
Help with airbrushing [R]4 years, 2 months agoFitzPack posted submission on XWingTMG.
May 25, 2015
Hey! I just started airbrushing and need... more than a little help. My airbrush is a badger 100 gravity fed, and I've been trying to use vallejo model colors (with thinner) in the airbrush. I'm trying to use gloss white but it keeps coming out either too watery and thin, or too thick. Can anyone tell me if the model air paints are worth getting? Or is there a pretty agreed upon amount to water this paint down for the airbrush to work.
And what Psi would you say I use the brush at?
May 25, 2015
Primer is the first thing you should think about. It literally is the first step to achieving the finish you want. I work with making small models and props for animation and go through these steps quite often. If you don't mind I'll go through a few steps that might help. This translates to minis, props and models which I do at home/work all the time. Step 1. making sure your model is as clean and oil/finger grease as possible, a quick wash with rubbing alcohol in a q-tip would do well on these little buggers. Making sure all the cracks are clean and clear. Whiskey works well too :D
Step 2. Primer. I use the grey tamiya, but white is probably better for these models. Either way, the tamiya primer is made for models and small pieces. The spray is finer than on a large rattle can. The tamiya is more expensive, but will give you better results. Spray evenly, misting the model, avoid direct spraying as it will likely pool or drip. Multiple passes may be needed. Go light. http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Surface-Primer-White-180ml/dp/B0000WS01E
Step 3. Finish and sanding. Using a 1000 grit auto body sandpaper or a scotch brite pad, like that green scouring pad in your kitchen to buff down the primer so there are no bumpy areas or inconsistencies on the surface that are a result of too much primer or an uneven application during spraying. http://www.amazon.com/3M-MMM04801104028-Scotch-Brite-Hand-Light/dp/B007ZUGS2M/ref=sr113?ie=UTF8&qid=1432604178&sr=8-13&keywords=3m%2C+finishing%2C+scotchbrite Use a toothpick to tighten up any cracks or details that may have been lost to pooling of primer.
Step 4. Wash it, get it dust free again after sanding. Don't use the alcohol, a little water on a q-tip will do fine.
Step 5. PAINT!! I know it's a lot of steps, but you want a tight looking model right? The envy of the LGS! Right?! Painting, with an airbrush can be tricky. I always test out my spray on a piece of paper before spraying the model. Make sure you're getting the right spray. You've got a gravity feed, which is tricky for such tiny stuff, but I've seen them produce amazing work in the right, practiced hands.
Reduce your paint, I don't know the "thinner" you're using, but airbrushes are finicky things. Since this paint air drys and you're using air to push the paint, you'll need what is called "Airbrush Medium" and "Flow-Aid". The airbrush medium helps carry the pigment from your model paints. You can "thin" it in this. Adding a drop or too of the flow-aid, helps it not dry too quickly on the airbrush nozzle and flow through it nicely so it will give you an even and consistent spray. The consistency of the paint should be semi-watery and drip like milk. Wet, but dense with pigment. You don't want it too transparent, otherwise, it's going to take too many layers to get your color right.(Depending!)
Let your paint layers dry before adding another application! Get a hair dryer on low and dry it from a good distance, don't hold it too close, you could risk making the paint bubble.
Mask off areas with liquid latex too or something you can remove easily. Tape is ok, but on small models, it looks shitty. Truly shitty. Don't do it. Painters frisket is nice, but for modeling, I use latex cuz it peels right off and gives me a nice tight line.
Whew... that's a lot to digest. I hope it's helpful. I'm sure I forgot some stuff, but with practice and experimentation, you'll get to know the kinks in your brush and your air system.
AH! Air systems! Right! Regulate your flow below 40psi. I usually go at 30-35 for acrylics, but some lacquers I use need a 15 or lower.
GO FORTH! AND PAINT SOME AWESOME STUFF!
Primer Questions: what to use when painting black on blue? [R]4 years, 6 months agocalvin102220 posted submission on Gunpla.
Feb. 11, 2015
I recently purchased the HGUC Banshee destroy mode and was thinking about which primer to use for my painting. I want to paint yellow over the original orange color, and I want it to be really bright. I will also spray black over the navy blue.
Will a white primer suffice for both? Or do I need to get a grey primer for the black on blue?
Feb. 11, 2015
Haha it's ok I love long and detailed directions! One thing I have to mention though: I don't have an airbrush, so I am going to use a primer that comes with the spray can. In this case do you have any recommendations for primers that come in spray cans?
would something like this do? Also i'm sorry if I'm bothering you with all these questions...