|Date||Price Action||Change %||Price Level|
|23 Apr, 2020||Price Drop||-4.96%||average|
|14 Apr, 2020||Price Increase||17.23%||average|
|13 Apr, 2020||Price Drop||-14.69%||low|
|6 Apr, 2020||Price Increase||17.23%||average|
|2 Apr, 2020||Price Drop||-10.42%||low|
Amazon.com price change % swings above and below average price
Discussion and Reviews on Reddit
Trying to find files [R]9 months, 1 week agoRodBlaine posted submission on modelmakers.
July 17, 2019
I’m trying to find a set of very fine files which tapper to a rounded point, the shop I previously found them at went out of business and I haven’t been able to find them anywhere else.
Thanks in advance!
How to make a name ring [R]1 year agodemontits posted submission on howto.
April 10, 2019
April 10, 2019
It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.
A regular file - $8 (optional)
If you want to process the silver yourself you need a
That torch again
Adding texture to a flipper tab? [R]1 year, 5 months agoWhite_Wafflez posted submission on knifemods.
Oct. 27, 2018
Hi all. The flipper tab on my Kizer Quicksilver is a touch slick because it is smooth and rounded. I would like to add a little texture to it, but do not want to mess it up. Any suggestions? I have a dremel and some small metal files at my disposal. Thanks in advance!
Oct. 27, 2018
I'd suggest staying away from a Dremel unless you're reeeeeaaaalllllyyyyy careful. Power tools can take off to much at a time if you slip up.
I would suggest getting some diamond needle files from Amazon (like $8 for the set) and using those. It will take longer but less chance of a massive oops
Some of my first prints, a bit rough but fun for my table [R]1 year, 6 months agoEcclesius posted submission on PrintedMinis.
Oct. 5, 2018
[QC] LV Neverfull in Damier Azur from Nancy [R]1 year, 10 months agokaraokeprincess posted submission on RepLadies.
June 16, 2018
Who did you buy from? Nancy via WhatsApp
How much did you pay? $135 ($150 + 10% Western Union discount) + $20 EMS shipping to US
Looking for a QC on my first rep purchase! To be honest, I don't know a ton about these bags (it's for my wife, who's not a Redditor). It looks good compared to the auth in my opinion - the alignment of the squares is good, stitching looks good, detail on the on the squares look good. The only potential problem, and this may just be the lighting in the photos, is that pattern looks darker on the rep than on the authentic.
CCW, let me know what you think!
June 17, 2018
So sorry! I just saw this! I could have sworn I saw the notification when you first commented but it disappeared and didn’t pop up until today.
I ordered these mini diamond files off of Amazon awhile back for another purpose, but they ended up working better to scratch off the print on the touching VU’s than the acetone trick. For the acetone you have to be way more cautious. Honestly I can’t tell if it scratched the canvas but to me it looks fine haha. The paint in between the V and the U came off and I can’t notice any major damages, if anything.
I didn’t treat my DE with oil, but I did use Fiebing’s Acrylic Resolene to add a sheen to my DE. It really does help for both Monogram and DE canvas, a very noticeable difference. I’ve never had an auth LV in DE so I cannot comment on how accurate the shade of mine is. But on The PurseForum so many women talk about the difference shades canvas can have in DA, DE, and Monogram. So I wouldn’t worry about it too much if I were you 😊
Hope I was able to be of some help! 💕
Mold line removal tips? [R]1 year, 10 months agoStomp_ posted submission on Warhammer40k.
June 17, 2018
Does anyone have tips on how to make removing mold lines not a pain in the ass? I’m working on the DG half of dark imperium and it’s taking me 40-60 minutes per model to clean the mold lines/sprue marks and glue the models together, and that seems like way too much time
June 17, 2018
WE G17 help needed [R]2 years agowhiteash6 posted submission on airsoft.
April 2, 2018
I just receive my new WE g17 gen 4 today and I'm having an issue with the slide sticking. I lubricated it and I'm having the same issue. If I pull the slide back fast it usually goes back forward, but if it's in the back position and I release the slide lock it will either slid forward or stay stuck back. Any help is welcome!
April 3, 2018
these are the ones I use. fairly cheap too.
How do you finish your pieces? [R]2 years, 8 months agomyinvisibilitycloak posted submission on Woodcarving.
Aug. 14, 2017
Hey, I am kinda new to the woodcarving hobby, and I just finished my first pieces. I am curious, how do you get that nice, polished looking dark brown I see on many pieces here? I used simple wood stain and was underwhelmed by the results, the wood fibres stood up at some parts (I know you are supposed to sand it down and apply again, but I have no idea how to sand in the detail parts) and the figure looked very blotchy, if you know what I mean, you could clearly see that it was stained. Anybody got some advice for me?
Aug. 15, 2017
OK, here's my experience, but in general, just go with what /u/bandit69 says if he shows up. He's the wise old man around these parts.(Although for all I know, "he" could be a 27 year old girl. I like to think of him as a wise old man in a rocking chair.)
Anyhow, back to why I'm here:
I made so many mistakes when I started out and one of those mistakes was being afraid of using wood finish because I thought I would mess it up. I used mineral oil for a while. Definitely don't do that unless you're making cutting boards.
There's a difference between wood stain and wood finish. Wood stain adds color. I've never used wood stain before.
Wood finish is what protects the wood from water/scratches/bumps and makes it look shiny (although you can buy matte finish that doesn't add shine at all). Wood finish will deepen the natural color of the wood (the way wood looks when it is wet).
There are a bunch of different kinds and after using a few, I've settled on clear shellac premixed in a can from Home Depot.
A lot of people use oil-based polyurethane, and it's a beautiful choice, it just takes a lot longer to dry than shellac and I am impatient.
Whether you're using poly or shellac, you'll want to brush on a coat, let it dry, lightly sand, and then repeat the process 3-4 times. It won't look good after just one coat. Being impatient, I don't like this process, but I do it because the results are so beautiful.
I have found that applying wood finish with a bristle brush (as opposed to a foam brush) produces better results.
For sanding in crevices, I use one of these. I have also used a nail file in the past.
Overall, wood finishing is not as complicated as it sounds and you can definitely do it.
All my Malifaux Minis so far [R]4 years, 6 months ago1D13 posted submission on Malifaux.
Sept. 30, 2015