|Date||Price Action||Change %||Price Level|
|7 Mar, 2020||Price Drop||-1.14%||lowest|
|21 Jan, 2020||Price Increase||4.29%||lowest|
|14 Jan, 2019||Price Drop||-8.37%||lowest|
|4 Jan, 2019||Price Increase||9.13%||highest|
|20 Oct, 2018||Price Increase||0.46%||lowest|
Amazon.com price change % swings above and below average price
Discussion and Reviews on Reddit
Desperate for your guys' help - very technical and basic questions to make sure I pick up the appropriate equipment for my first wood finish [R]4 months, 4 weeks agoDoughThoughBro posted submission on woodworking.
Nov. 20, 2019
Hey guys, a newbie here! Please don't freak out about my upcoming wall of text. It may look intimidating, but I'm more than sure that these are very basic question for you guys.
I'm about to get an untreated wooden tabletop from IKEA and so I've been watching hella vids and have been doing my research because I've never treated wood before.
I want to stain the wood with Dark Walnut. However, The Minwax is not available on Amazon, and an alternative I've found, by Rust-Oleum, is also not available (luckily, their Polyurethane Matte Finish is available, so at least I have that in the bag). I've found these two alternatives: "General Finishes WWPT Water Based Wood Stain" and "SamaN Interior Water Based Stain for Fine Wood," but I have no idea if they are actually equivalent alternatives. It says it's "water based," but I the others are oil-based and so I'll have to keep looking, right?
Aside from that, considering the measurements of the table top, do you reckon I should pick up 1 quart of wood stain, or would 1/2 pint be enough? I'll probably only do one coat from each side, because I don't want it to get too dark. Also - 1 quart or half a pint of the Polyurethane? I'll be doing at least 3 coats, if not 4 (on just one side. I'll probably only do 1 coat, if at all, on the bottom).
Moving on, I intend to use foam brushes to apply the wood stain, but I will obviously have to wipe out the excess after a few minutes. I will then have to use a lint-free cloth, correct? Will these do the trick? Also - before I stain the wood I will obviously sand it (probably 220 grit) , and I will of course sand it between each coating (probably 320 or above between coats, and then probably 600 or beyond for the final product), so I believe this will be more than enough, correct? Not only does it have the hand sander, but it also has 3 pieces of each grit. Will I go through more than 1 paper per side of the tabletop, or will 3 of each grit suffice?
After each sanding session, should I use a damp lint-free towel to remove all of the dust, or should I use a dry tack cloth, instead?
For the Polyurethane coats I will use a quality brush (this one), and so I'm wondering if I should get some Mineral Spirits to clean it in-between coats, or will water and soap do?
I think I covered all of my questions... I'll edit if I realize otherwise.
EDIT: I guess I could also throw in this steel wool for the final touch(?)
Thanks a lot!
Nov. 21, 2019
Thanks a lot man!
I just got done talking on the phone and as it turns out, I will get the stain+poly I wanted, locally! The oil based stain by Varathane and the water based poly by Varathane. I've seen those in action so I was glad to pick them up rather than go with something locally I am not familiar with (or order online and pay a shit tonne for delivery. Amazon has the Minwax wood stain for cheap at $8 per quart and free delivery, but Espresso and not Dark Walnut, so I had to pass, unfortunately). I will pick up a quart of both, so that will be plenty.
That means that the toughest obstacle is behind me! I just want to make sure I got the rest of my items right before I go ahead and check out on Amazon.
I got the foam brushes for the stain application, the quality brush for the polly (which I intend to clean with this mineral spirits, which seems like high quality. However, I'm not even sure that's mineral spirits, because it reads 'mineral oil... Did I get the wrong product?), my towels, the very fine scotch brite.
Only thing I need to know is whether a 3 pack of Aluminum-Oxide Sandpaper 320 Grit, 9-Inch x 11-Inch and a 3 pack of Aluminum-Oxide Sandpaper 220 Grit, 9-Inch x 11-Inch, 3-Pack will suffice for the job.
I'm pretty sure the 220 grit ones will suffice, seeing how I will only use those before I stain the wood. So even if I'm inexperienced and have no clue how much sandpaper I'll go through for that piece of wood (155cm*75cm), I'm sure that 3 will be more than enough (correct me if I'm wrong). Obviously, the very fine scotch brite will suffice as well. Not only does the package include 3 pieces, but you also mentioned how durable they are. In addition to that, I will only use it for as the finishing touch, so obviously there's no worries there.
However, I'm not sure about the 320 grit. I have 3 pieces of those as well, and will use them before the first coat of poly, as well as between each poly coat. I will most likely do at least 3 coats of poly from each side, which means that the sandpaper will have to suffice for 4-5 full coverage sanding sessions (from both sides of the tabletop). As I said, I'm not experienced enough to know how fast I will end up going through them, so I have no idea if 3 pieces of 9*11 inch will suffice.
Should I toss another pack of 3 320 grit in my cart, or am I tripping and they will more than get the job done? I'd rather be on the safe side.
How to proceed with inspecting roof from attic. [R]1 year, 7 months agoarizona-lad posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Sept. 4, 2018
First time homeowner and been living here for about a year. The house is a 1 floor ranch, 60ft x30 feet. The roof is 3 years old, replaced in 2015. Last night we had a torrential downpour, worst I’ve seen in years. Following the rain, we noticed that water was leaking from the exhaust fan in one of our bathrooms. I chalked it up to so water getting into the vent from the outside.
We’ve had our roof inspected last year and was said to be in great condition. The only caveat is that the attic is only accessible at one end of the house and only provides enough room to roam in the attic for up to 5 feet from the entrance. The rest of the attic has blown in insulation and that prevents me from going to inspect the exhaust vent from inside the attic (happens to be on the other end of the house). What would be the safest and easiest way to inspect the roof to vent area? Should I clear a path in the insulation to get to the area? Any precautions I need to take?
Sept. 4, 2018
Had you considered adding a second entrance to the attic? They are pretty useful when needed:
Seeking advice on cleaning up a flat top grill. [R]1 year, 7 months agoarizona-lad posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Sept. 4, 2018
So here's the grill https://imgur.com/a/kp9KYb2. I was given it this summer, and it had a little rust on it. I used some of that rust remover bath stuff, and it seemed to work pretty good. I even cooked on it a couple of times. Then one weekend the whole thing turned into a giant rusty slab. So I used the same rust remover, soaked a bunch of paper towels and let it sit overnight. Now taking all of them off, this is the result. It's kind of messy. Anyway, do you think it would be OK to just sand all of this off? Any other advice on dealing with this mess?
Sept. 4, 2018
Once you get it as clean as you can (doesn't matter if it is a rust dissolver or a wire wheel on a drill), you need to coat it so that oxygen cannot get to the surface.
This is one product that would do that:
My brother died unexpectedly and I have no idea how to care for the beautiful Masamoto knives he left me. I’ve been washing immediately and drying with microfiber but water spots still seem to be forming. Do they need to be oiled or something? I’m having trouble finding definitive answers online. [R]1 year, 9 months agoKromulent posted submission on knives.
July 5, 2018
July 5, 2018
It's food grade mineral oil, tasteless, odorless, colorless, designed to be used on wooden cutting boards. Put a couple of drops on a paper towel, wipe it on the steel, wipe it off. What remains is a thin coating that will prevent rust. Watch your fingertips around the edges while you wipe.
New butcherblock, sealing with Waterlox, need advice [R]2 years, 1 month agoNotevenspecial posted submission on HomeImprovement.
March 5, 2018
I have a 40" square island that I have purchased butcherblock countertop for. It is currently completely unfinished.
So I've read over the Waterlox website about temperature, method, and timeframe of application. It says that it dries via oxidation, and that good airflow is most important. Secondary to that is humidity (lower humidity = faster drying time), and finally temperature (10o with 10% humidity will still be better than 90o with 90% humidity). But, it also says that >60o is optimal. They recommend having a box fan in a window with a window across open as well to raise the number of air exchanges.
We live in central NC, where we are supposed to be in the 50s this week. The only room in the house where I could possibly apply the finish would be in the living room due to size, but I don't want to have a box fan in my living room in the window for several reasons (temperature in the house, noise, potential smell of finish, etc). We have a detached garage, but again, our lows in the evenings are going to be in the 30s.
I don't want to finish it in place, because I'd like to do at least one coat on the bottom, if not two, and the island currently has a top which means putting the butcherblock on it to finish it would make the island unusable for at least a week (minimum 24hr dry time, 3-4 coats, can't set anything on it).
So, what's the best option? I'm currently leaning towards the garage, since Waterlox says temperature is secondary to humidity, and at least there I could do the box fan airflow dealio.
TL;DR: Should I put Waterlox on in the garage where it's chilly with better airflow, the house where it's warmer sans airflow, or something completely different?
March 5, 2018
How about not using Waterlox? Don't get me wrong; it's a good product. But the butcher block tops I've seen have all been treated with food grade mineral oil. And they hold up just fine:
What to use to seal a wooden kitchen countertop (IKEA)? [R]2 years, 2 months agoarizona-lad posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Jan. 30, 2018
I was going to use IKEA's sealer, but I figure there is something better out there. Polyurethane? Something food grade?
It's real wood laminate around particle board.
*Edit: I'm reading a lot about Waterlox. That seem right?
Jan. 30, 2018
If you are going to use this for food prep, you should use food grade mineral oil:
Otherwise Waterlox is fine.
Refinishing butcher block counters [R]2 years, 2 months agoNotevenspecial posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Jan. 17, 2018
We're prepping to reno our kitchen. We're pretty avid DIYers but don't have much experience with butcher block and are looking for a bit of advice. We have butcher block countertops that we got out of a friend's home when they were re-doing their kitchen. They need some love, but they were free, so... we we originally considering taking them to get re-planed, but the lumber place we usually use said they won't run them through their planer because the oils will gum up the machine. Any other ideas on how to get a nice, new, even surface?
Also - experiences with sealing? I hate the look of a shiny sealant (much prefer a wax/oil look) but I also don't want to have to sand them every 6 months (which is what I saw in a few resources). I don't mind re-waxing and oiling frequently though.
Jan. 17, 2018
Go to another lumber place. Just because one place turned you down doesn't mean that all of them will.
As for care? Just use food grade mineral oil:
Reapply as needed, but once or twice a year is usually good enough.
Wood countertop treatment? [R]2 years, 3 months agoarizona-lad posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Jan. 13, 2018
My wife and I just purchased a kitchen island. It has a wooden countertop and I'm wondering what to treat it with. I've read online some people use canola oil, some types of mineral oil...
Can anyone tell me exactly what to use? What type of sandpaper? I'm not a DIY kinda guy... not very handy.
Jan. 13, 2018
Use this and you will be fine:
How to eliminate rust [R]2 years, 5 months agobambooclad posted submission on wicked_edge.
Nov. 8, 2017
Hello. What is a good method to eliminate rust of a safety razor and other metal tools(scissors for example)?
Nov. 8, 2017
To prevent rusting, I apply a light coat of mineral oil on my straights.
To remove light rust, I suppose you could use a metal polish like Flitz.
Help! I put olive oil on my butcher block counter and now it smells bad [R]2 years, 7 months agoStimmolation posted submission on homeowners.
Sept. 7, 2017
I was an idiot. Clearly. I put olive oil on my butcher block counter. It gleamed and had a rich golden colour. It was lovely. Then the oil went rancid. Now it smells bad. What do I do?!
Oiling wooden handles [R]2 years, 8 months agoThurid posted submission on chefknives.
July 31, 2017
Some of my handles are fading a little (especially my vic nox which family put though the dishwasher). What oil should I use to re-season them?
Butcher block countertop [R]2 years, 8 months agoArizonaLad posted submission on HomeImprovement.
July 22, 2017
New house we bought has a section of butcher block countertops.
It looks great, but is semi-rough to the touch and hasn't been sealed. Internet advice is contradictory.
What's the best way to seal it? We don't want it shiny, but also don't want it to ruin the first time we spill something.
July 22, 2017
I sand mine with a fine grit sandpaper, then move to very fine. I clean off the residual dust with a tack cloth, then spray coat it with food grade mineral oil:
I do this once every year or two. Looks great, and is water repellent.
Cold Steel MAA Bastard Sword Advice [R]2 years, 9 months agoJarfulous posted submission on SWORDS.
July 19, 2017
Okay, so I've had a Cold Steel MAA bastard/hand-and-a-half sword for some time now, and I like it overall, but I've got a couple questions for any Cold Steel nuts who might be reading this (given this Subreddit's general opinion of CS, there might not be many).
- What would be a good way to sharpen it, and
- Will it ever rust? It seems sturdy.
My household has a whetstone intended for kitchen knives and a small, rough grindstone. Should I get something better?
July 20, 2017
How does this look?
Simple Questions/What Should I Do? [Weekly Thread] [R]2 years, 10 months agoSwankster86 posted submission on DIY.
May 28, 2017
Simple Questions/What Should I Do?
Have a basic question about what item you should use or do for your project? Afraid to ask a stupid question? Perhaps you need an opinion on your design, or a recommendation of what you should do. You can do it here! Feel free to ask any DIY question and we’ll try to help!
- Absolutely NO sexual or inappropriate posts, SFW posts ONLY.
- As a reminder, sexual or inappropriate comments will almost always result in an immediate ban from /r/DIY.
- All non-Imgur links will be considered on a post-by-post basis.
- This is a judgement-free zone. We all had to start somewhere. Be civil. .
A new thread gets created every Sunday.
What is a red flag for you that others do while cooking? Also what is the most terrible culinaric sin you know? [R]3 years agonight_owl posted submission on Cooking.
March 19, 2017
Mine is defenitely putting oil into pasta water
EDIT: because it was asked many times:
I don't put oil in pasta water because it does not help keep the pasta from sticking. The oil swims on the surface and has allmost no contact to the pasta.
What does help btw is to put some oil onto them but after taking the water away.
And yes oil in water helps to keep the foam from cooking over, but stiring two times in the beginning and setting to low heat does also, so I don't waste my oil for that.
March 19, 2017
The "maintenance" required for wood cutting boards is really very minimal.
There are just a few important points to remember (that my roommate is incapable of understanding):
don't leave it to soak in nasty water (it will get waterlogged and warped, and possibly even moldy).
don't let it sit with stuff like tomato sauce or curry slathered all over it because it will soak into and stain the wood (which is really mainly just a cosmetic issue but very annoying and it can leave a lingering taste/aroma if it is bad)
hand wash with soap and water, and you can go easy a little easy on the soap most of the time as long as you clean and DRY it right away, and allow me to emphasize DRY IT RIGHT AWAY, don't leave it sitting in a puddle: it's good habit for sanitary reasons, bacteria/molds won't really grow on dry wood but they can on wet wood.
if it is starting to look dryed out, then oil it—ideally with food grade mineral oil likeoneofthese or coconut oil is ok too. I find this step is important but does not need to be done very frequently as long as you take good care of your board and use it regularly, and it only takes a couple minutes total anyway.
Follow those few points and any basic, cheap $10-20 bamboo or wood cutting board will last you many years and still look almost new. A couple trips through a dishwasher will do more damage and wear-and-tear than 5+ years of heavy use with normal cleaning and maintenance.