Falcon Guide Climbing Anchors Book

Globe Pequot Press

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Falcon Guide Climbing Anchors Book

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  • Amazon.com Sold on
  • 0762782072 Amazon ASIN
  • Globe Pequot Press Brand
  • Falcon Guides Model Number
  • Categories

    Mountaineering, Books, Mountain Climbing, Sports & Outdoors

Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 40 Reviews
  • Sept. 18, 2018 Last Review Date
  • July 29, 2013 First Seen Review Date
  • 2 Reviewed on Subreddits

    climbing (38)
    tradclimbing (2)

Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

Friday New Climber Thread for September 14, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 1 month agohuffalump1 posted submission on climbing.
Sept. 14, 2018

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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NewCheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

Ask away!

1 year, 1 month agohuffalump1 posted comment on climbing.
Sept. 18, 2018

For specifics, definitely pick up a copy of Climbing Anchors. Nice explanations, illustrations, and examples. It's a must-have.

Looking for advice on beginning trad in Arkansas (guided vs DIY) [R]

1 year, 1 month agotaxidermy_and_wine posted submission on climbing.
Sept. 15, 2018

I've been itching to take the next step to trad for a while. I went sport climbing at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch a few weeks ago and it seemed like the perfect place to start out (lots of 5.5-5.8 trad routes, some good cracks, etc) but for the life of me I can't find a guide in the area.

I searched AMGA's list of rock guides and none seem to be based in Arkansas. I also directly e-mailed Horseshoe Canyon Ranch to see if they had any recommendations and no luck there. I am kinda of the mindset that I want to take the DIY approach- I've read the books (Falcon guide), watched some great explanatory videos, have experience sport climbing, and (arguably most important) I think I have the ability to recognize when I am in over my head and back off if necessary. I also plan to aid climb to get immediate feedback on my gear placements. Any thoughts/advice on that approach?

Alternatively, if it really is important to start out with a guide/mentor to make sure gear placement is good then any does anyone have any guide recommendations for Arkansas?

What's the best way to extend a bolted anchor past a ledge? [R]

1 year, 3 months agodustyrhod3s posted submission on climbing.
July 10, 2018

Hi guys, I've been doing my own top rope anchors this summer and unfortunately my brand new (first) rope is taking a pretty big beating from some ledgey routes. I've been trying to figure out the best way to extend the anchor to reduce rope drag but pretty much everything I read about it pretty much says "just do it" without a real explanation as to how or they pretty much just say buy a longer sling. I have a double length that I use for sliding X's and some cord I use for quads but they just don't cut it sometimes.

I made a really shitty drawing to show what I was thinking but I was wondering if anyone had any real insight into the best way to do this. I was thinking pretty much just attaching a double or single length sling to each hanger then having a locker on the end of each to essentially act as extended hangers then doing your anchor set up on those two lockers. My worry with this is that the top lockers will be bending against the rock but that seems unavoidable on far back hangers anyway.

https://i.redd.it/llym63xqj5911.png

1 year, 3 months agodustyrhod3s posted comment on climbing.
July 10, 2018

a) I would get the John Long/Bob Gaines Anchor building book: https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072

b) I would buy a 50-80' static line like these: https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/static/safetypro/nylon-prime-shorts-2

c) Learn to tie a BFK master point with a figure 8 on a bight on one end and a clove hitch on the other

Friday New Climber Thread for June 01, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 4 months agoxaveir posted submission on climbing.
June 1, 2018

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

NewCheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

Ask away!

1 year, 4 months agoxaveir posted comment on climbing.
June 1, 2018

Experienced climber who takes out tons of newbies here.

For me, there are two kinds of "I'll take you out". The first is "I think you're cool, but I have no expectation of you becoming a long term partner". This is the more common. Most of my friends don't climb full time, so taking them out is just like the equivalent of....taking them fishing in my boat. Just a cool time. It's nice if they pay for beer, but there's basically no expectations.

Then, there's the "I am interested in your potential as a long term crush buddy". For these kinds, usually their enthusiasm has already tipped me off that they would be great partners and open to learn. I tend to forward them a version of the following email.

It is intended to cover the things I want them to know in order to project multipitch trad with me. This is basically in addition to the assumption they'll buy a book on climbing anchors and systems, like Long's climbing anchors book.

If they're the kind of people I get along climbing with, they'll tend to geek out and learn it all in the first month or two.

Involves a lot of setting up example rope systems in your room, but I find practicing this kind of stuff tons of fun.

<hr />

Begin forwarded message <Snip>

Here's some youtube links, as promised. 

The escaping the belay guy has a long series of useful vids, everything he says is well thought out. Definitely watch his video on different methods of rappel. The "spider" or "rescue" rappel he shows is particularly important to understand if your partner is injured. And of course knowing how to rap off a munter in case you drop your ATC is crucial. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H26xqP_Upcc

The other youtube guy which is pretty gold is "Mike". He's an older guide, with more alpine than rock experience. He has more videos than is possible to watch, and they're less polished, and often he's behind the times on things, but his perspective is different and so very useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VXfrIAgpG0&list=PL8D9710F1DA39CFE5

The overall principles to take away are: how to move yourself/your partner up and down at any time, and how to escape and enter rope systems (to get around knots, go get help, etc) using "load transfers".

After you've practiced this stuff, we can talk about different scenarios and see how they would work out. 

Best,

<Snip>

P.S. The defeating the belay video i would no longer recommend, because he doesn't emphasize enough that the autoblock backup needs to be there before you set up the sling/cord to break the belay, but I think you get that part :)

P.P.S. you might notice that in many videos by mikebarter387 and MazamasICS, they present versions of everything where they use a munter instead of an ATC, microtrax, or other progress capture device. This is pretty important to know, as it allows you to perform any of these tricks not only for when you drop your ATC, but in more critical scenarios like say you have to escape the belay and leave your ATC behind to save your partner, or something similar.

<hr />

Begin forwarded message <Snip>

Long list of links here:

Bible of climbing "anchors" (from bolts to nuts/cams to top rope setups): https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072

Wild country crack climbing video series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXptgbhwopuhaHLm0wkqTUFnWqaWr9evU

Here's a pretty exhaustive list of fairly technical "things you can learn" that aren't in the book above. Escaping the belay: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a81LC0wjO0k Belaying from above: (read ATC guide's instructions for use) "Defeating" the belay from above: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3zOisWbuB8 Ascending a rope: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Uk3rZ5VbBc (remember to tie backup knots below yourself as you climb!) Passing a knot on rappel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTmAd9he_Ys How to haul a climber with a "z-drag" aka 3-1 or 5-1 progress capture pulley: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9JSZSftpg4

If you are comfortable with those things and the stuff in John Long's book, you'll basically be able to self-rescue from almost any climb, even multi-pitch trad.

Essential knots (decreasing order of importance in catastrophe, with uses in above videos labeled): 1. figure eight (follow through for tie-ing in, on a bight for clipping rope to things, for creating master points of anchors)

  1. munter hitch + mule (to belay/rappel in emergency, useful in self rescue)
  2. clove hitch (clip yourself on direct using just the rope)
  3. prusik "knot" (backups, ascending rope, hauling, load transfers)

  4. alpine butterfly (for isolating damaged spot of rope, to clip rope to things, bomber catastrophe knot)

  5. water knot (only knot for joining sling ends)
  6. double/triple fisherman's (only knot for joining rope ends)

  7. EDK and "double" EDK

Finally, since you asked yesterday, a good starter rope is the 9.5mm-by-60m mammut infinity for sport only, or if you want to do some top rope as well, I would get something thicker (more durable). Literally can't beat the bluewater accelerator (10.5-by-60m) for the price they have at http://www.mtntools.com/steals/index.html, but any 10mm+ climbing rope will do. The lighter (<65g/m) the better, as you've learned.

If you'll be doing top roping, might as well buy a 30'-by-8mm cord from REI's climbing section, to save your rope from wear by extending anchor over the edge like I showed you. It is usually impossible to top rope without one of these, due to anchors always being above sharp rock edges.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Friday New Climber Thread for May 04, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 5 months agospellstrike posted submission on climbing.
May 4, 2018

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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NewCheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

Ask away!

1 year, 5 months agospellstrike posted comment on climbing.
May 4, 2018

start reading though these resources a dozen times:

1 multipitchclimbing.com

2 anchors intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SkCojauHto

3 WC crack school: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W99gN54wLQ&list=PLIC0Jb1OCf4cTyLvpiGN9KNZGfqCpHB4D

Then get some DMM alloy offset nuts 7-11 and go around the base of the crag practicing placements.

long's book is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072

Friday New Climber Thread for May 04, 2018: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 5 months agoLesZedCB posted submission on climbing.
May 4, 2018

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

NewCheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

Ask away!

1 year, 5 months agoLesZedCB posted comment on climbing.
May 4, 2018

Friday New Climber Thread for December 01, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 10 months agomwaterous posted submission on climbing.
Dec. 1, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

NewCheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials!

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1 year, 10 months agomwaterous posted comment on climbing.
Dec. 1, 2017

This is a vast subject.

Single pitch? Multi pitch? Sport climbing? Trad?

This is a pretty awesome book on the subject.

Friday New Climber Thread for November 03, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

1 year, 11 months agomtngiftadvice111 posted submission on climbing.
Nov. 3, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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1 year, 11 months agomtngiftadvice111 posted comment on climbing.
Nov. 4, 2017

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1509808843&sr=8-1&keywords=john+long+anchors

https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr1sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1509808862&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=craig+lubben+anchors

Friday New Climber Thread for August 18, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

2 years, 2 months agowristrule posted submission on climbing.
Aug. 18, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

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2 years, 1 month agowristrule posted on climbing.
Aug. 21, 2017

The easiest way to find a friend who knows what's up and who is willing to take you out a bunch of times and teach you. Then you can start to purchase gear and do it on your own a bit.

You can ask around on Mountain Project forums or at the gym for people who would be interested in taking you out if you don't know anyone. If you go that route then a positive, open to new experiences attitude, an understanding of LNT and respecting the outdoors, and a six pack of beer generally go a long way.

Reading a book like John Long's Anchors is a good way to begin to learn, but probably not sufficient on its own.

If you can't find someone to teach you then many gyms offer classes on various topics. Start with a leading and lead belay class. Then move on to an anchors course. There's lots to learn and it's your life and safety at stake so take it slow.

Friday New Climber Thread for July 28, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

2 years, 2 months agoanamericanclassic posted submission on climbing.
July 28, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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Ask away!

2 years, 2 months agoanamericanclassic posted on climbing.
July 29, 2017

Make friends at your gym and go out with them. Or hire a guide.

Also, read a lot of books. John Long's anchor book is a great start.

Friday New Climber Thread for July 07, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

2 years, 3 months agomachsmit posted submission on climbing.
July 7, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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2 years, 3 months agomachsmit posted on climbing.
July 7, 2017

seconding /u/traddad's comment/recommendations. Another good resource is John Long's anchor book -- the last chapter has some good examples for rigging top belays (and it's a good anchor resource in general)

Best anchor building resources? [R]

2 years, 5 months agodamnination333 posted submission on climbing.
April 25, 2017

What are the best resources for learning how to build anchors. Any good books or videos? Thanks

2 years, 5 months agodamnination333 posted on climbing.
April 25, 2017

Video. Mostly focuses on trad anchors, but the same concepts apply to sport anchors.

Book.

Getting started for outdoor climbing. [R]

2 years, 6 months agon88n posted submission on climbing.
March 28, 2017

Hey everyone, just looking to pick some brains here. I've been climbing in the gym off and on for a couple years and have a pretty regular workout routine outside of the climbing gym. I'm looking to branch out and get on some real rock. My questions are simple; I'm looking for a beginners itinerary, like what every beginner should have. Also some tips, things you wish you had known when you began climbing real crags. One last thing, my location is western/central Massachusetts, so any good beginner climb recommendations are welcome!

2 years, 6 months agon88n posted on climbing.
March 28, 2017

so if you have places near you that allow you to set a top rope off of permanent anchors, and you have easy access to those anchors from the top side, then you are in business. look at something easy like "the quad" from Bob Long's book. read up on the anchors and build some test ones at home.

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072/ref=pdsbs14t0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZ8HAH8DD8MB6D5RSFG7

Some places allow you to setup top rope but only with trad gear and that is much more difficult. You would really need a guide or mentor to teach you those skills onsite over many trips.

Sport is pretty easy if you have sport in your area. If you and a buddy are comfortable leading and lead belaying that is important. The hardest part of sport is cleaning the anchors. There are lots of videos online that teach you how to clean. Maybe your gym offers some training so you can practice safely. When i learned i watched a lot of videos and watched my friends clean. I talked to them about how they did it. My first time was on a short route that my buddies could easily see me and the anchor from. I was low so we talked it out all the way through.

Friday New Climber Thread for February 24, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

2 years, 7 months agoDitchingworkagain2 posted submission on climbing.
Feb. 24, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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2 years, 7 months agoDitchingworkagain2 posted on climbing.
March 2, 2017

I'm about to make the jump from top-roping to lead climbing and I'm trying to learn about anchors as much as I can beforehand. Someone recommended Climbing Anchors by John Long, and I'm wondering if someone can tell me if it's this one? or if it's this one

Also, does anyone have suggestions for other books to read for anchors? I looked in the wiki book section but most of what I found was biographies. Thank you!

18 months after getting hooked... [R]

3 years agoSept. 29, 2016
3 years agoforrScience posted on climbing.
Sept. 29, 2016

OP if you haven't already, I highly suggest reading climbing anchors falcon guide https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072, if you're into gear and the knots, ect, its a fantastic read. i've read it cover to cover twice.

Friday New Climber Thread for September 09, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 1 month agoDanielPedberg posted submission on climbing.
Sept. 9, 2016

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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Ask away!

3 years, 1 month agoDanielPedberg posted on climbing.
Sept. 15, 2016

I think taking the winter to prepare yourself is a great idea if you don't know of anyone who can take you, or don't want to spend the money on instruction (right now that is). For $30 and some shipping you can have almost all the book knowledge you need.

Read Climbing Anchors by John Long. This is a great way to start understanding climbing anchor theory and some of the broader details of materials and protection.

Read the AMGA's Single Pitch Instructor Manual. It has more info than you need to know, but the knots and anchor systems are extremely valuable.

Friday New Climber Thread for August 26, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 1 month agoanamericanclassic posted submission on climbing.
Aug. 26, 2016

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

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3 years, 1 month agoanamericanclassic posted on climbing.
Aug. 26, 2016

> However, my friend who is an experienced climber (regularly goes trad) offered to take us for the first time to show us how to set up the TR, anchors and such. So my question is: is this likely sufficient for our purposes?

This is perfectly fine, and probably how most people on here learned.

Obligatory recommendation for John Long's anchor book as well.

Friday New Climber Thread for July 08, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 3 months agoboschtg posted submission on climbing.
July 8, 2016

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Saw this anchor today. Is this safe? [R]

3 years, 4 months agorobxburninator posted submission on climbing.
May 31, 2016

Friday New Climber Thread for May 20, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 5 months agodanesgod posted submission on climbing.
May 20, 2016

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

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3 years, 5 months agodanesgod posted on climbing.
May 20, 2016

FOTH hills is great and all. But honestly, I got more out of John Long's Anchors book for learning trad placements and anchor building. FOTH is so dense and there is a lot of info in there that is irrelevant for trad climbing (alpine/mountaineering/survival stuff).

If it were me, I'd look at Climbing Anchors first, FOTH second.

Gym climber here wanting to learn how to take it outside. [R]

3 years, 5 months agoMay 5, 2016

[deleted]

Friday New Climber Thread for April 22, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 6 months agotoinaeraser posted submission on climbing.
April 22, 2016

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

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3 years, 5 months agotoinaeraser posted on climbing.
April 22, 2016

The standard advice for gym climbers who want to go outside for the first time is take a class, hire a guide, or have an experienced mentor teach you. There are many possibilities for anchoring and it's tough to understand exactly what you need over the internet.

If you want a bit of a head start, read 'Climbing Anchors' by John Long. You can also practise knots with a scrap of rope.

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-How-Climb-Series/dp/0762782072

Need a good setup for climbing in Utah [R]

3 years, 6 months agoApril 21, 2016

[deleted]

3 years, 6 months agoDanielPedberg posted on climbing.
April 21, 2016

Take ~$250 and buy some instruction. The transition from gym to outside is a learning process, and to make it safe you'll need to learn from someone experienced.

Take an anchors course and they'll teach you how to build your own, as well as assess anchors you come across (i.e. bolts). If you're itching to learn now, Climbing Anchors is a great book to start learning and understanding the theory of outdoor climbing.

Beginner Anchor help? [R]

3 years, 9 months agodustyrhod3s posted submission on climbing.
Jan. 1, 2016

A little back story, I've been wanting to go outside and I've finally made some friends who want to go outside for the first time as well. I want to start learning how to build a Top Rope anchor from bolts.

So I figured building a TR anchor from bolts require "minimal gear". I am thinking about buying an 50' of 7mm cordelette and 4 screw-gated carabiners.

The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it.

I went with cordellete instead of a dyneema sling because of all the safety reasonings. I haven't looked into the dyneema a lot, but the general consensus says it's unsafe.

Am I missing anything? Or any words of advice?

3 years, 9 months agodustyrhod3s posted on climbing.
Jan. 1, 2016

Here is what I use for bolted TR anchors:

http://www.seekingexposure.com/meet-the-quad-anchor/

This covers way more than just bolted TR anchors, but if you're really serious about getting information: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072/ref=sr12?ie=UTF8&qid=1451675328&sr=8-2&keywords=anchor+building

Also, 50' is twice as much as you need. 20-25' is enough.

Correct Top Rope set-up. [R]

3 years, 10 months agoDec. 5, 2015

[deleted]

3 years, 10 months agodustyrhod3s posted on climbing.
Dec. 5, 2015

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Climb-John-Long/dp/0762782072/ref=sr13?ie=UTF8&qid=1449364073&sr=8-3&keywords=bob+gaines

How to reach my big wall goal? [R]

4 years agotheGreatPipetter posted submission on climbing.
Oct. 16, 2015

So Ive been bouldering for a a yr and a half now, projecting v5-v6 and sending v4's relatively easy. Now this is the only thing available in my area, so i havent done any top rope/lead, apart from a couple one off instances. I recently went to El Cap and talked to a couple people doing the nose, and i was amazed. I need to get on that wall, but i dont know how to start.

So, i was hoping someone here can give me at least a little guidance as to what path to follow to send the nose. Again, i climb around a v5-v6, do campus board and hang board training, work out generally as well, and have sent 5.12 tr at the gym about a week ago. So basically what im asking, is do i, start doing top rope? what grade can i prob start with? is that required for climbing the nose if i did aid? (the people said it was a really easy aid climb, around 5.9, with something like the Washington column being a 5.7...is that something i can just go do?), do i take any sort of classes, books, etc...

Thanks in advance!

4 years agotheGreatPipetter posted on climbing.
Oct. 16, 2015
  1. Start toproping
  2. Learn to lead in the gym
  3. Start sport climbing outside
  4. Start trad climbing
  5. Learn skills that are useful to Yosemite climbing (crack climbing, slab climbing)
  6. Learn aid climbing and big wall skills
  7. Go SEND!

Take the TR and lead climbing classes from your gym if they are available. Then find a mentor to take you out trad climbing, at the mean time read this book back-to-back to learn proper gear placement and anchor building. Then read this book to learn how to big wall climb.

Good luck!

Friday New Climber Thread for July 10, 2015: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

4 years, 3 months agofodder008 posted submission on climbing.
July 10, 2015

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

Ask away!

4 years, 3 months agofodder008 posted on climbing.
July 15, 2015

Setting up top rope anchors is a fairly complicated subject. I would highly suggest finding a class or a friend to teach you how to do this safely.

If you really want to learn on your own start with Climbing Anchors by John Long.

Critique my Anchors (please) [R]

4 years, 4 months agopilly-bilgrim posted submission on climbing.
May 27, 2015

It spring time and Trad is my goal. I feel a bit rusty. Can you please critique my anchors.

https://imgur.com/a/Og98l#4

4 years, 4 months agopilly-bilgrim posted on climbing.
May 28, 2015

John Long and Bob Gaines' book is also a fantastic book on gear placements and anchors, and it goes into a lot of depth about how to make good placements with cams. If you read the chapter about cams you'll be able to go back over these photos and see them with different eyes. It's a great investment that can help you make some life changing decisions out on the rock.

Climbing Anchors [R]

4 years, 6 months agoRedGene posted submission on climbing.
April 15, 2015

So I'm starting to do a lot more Trad climbing and whilst I do know some anchor basics I feel like should know a few different types of setup and their given advantages.

Any suggestions on where to find this?

4 years, 6 months agoRedGene posted on climbing.
April 15, 2015

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762782072/ref=pdlposbsdpss1?pfrdp=1944687522&pfrds=lpo-top-stripe-1&pfrdt=201&pfrdi=0934641374&pfrdm=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pfrd_r=07VR52X0D7GBPA6AT7YG

Tricams have a special place on my rack [R]

5 years, 1 month agoCaptainUltimate28 posted submission on climbing.
Aug. 30, 2014
5 years, 1 month agoCaptainUltimate28 posted on climbing.
Aug. 31, 2014

No problem! I had a some great friends who had a lot of patience with me, who were just as adventurous as me, and I spent a lot of time reading John Long's [Climbing Anchors] (http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-How-Climb-Series/dp/0762782072).

Just remember, good judgement is the result of having survived bad judgment.

Knots! (Help) [R]

5 years, 3 months agoTundraWolf_ posted submission on climbing.
July 11, 2014

Hey! So this feels like a stupid problem, but I only ever boulder. The gym gave me some dead rope to make a trainer leash for my dog. However. Now I need to figure out how to tie a handle and a carabinier into each end, respectively.

Which knots would you suggest? The only knots I know are for hoisting pipes and buckets. I will Google them and figure it out once I have names, but right now I don't even know what to search for.

5 years, 3 months agoTundraWolf_ posted on climbing.
July 11, 2014

you can have fun for days reading through an anchor book (great book), setting up the examples, and then also learning the knots to use.

at most you'll need some rope, slings, and a few carabiners.

The best way to get into rock climbing [R]

5 years, 6 months agodanesgod posted submission on climbing.
April 19, 2014

Hey everyone. Me and my girlfriend want to get into rock climbing this summer but we are both totally brand new. what/how is the best way to get started to learn the ins and outs to be safe. Also, looking for some advice on the gear we will need. Thx for any help!

5 years, 6 months agodanesgod posted on climbing.
April 19, 2014

I stared climbing because I wanted to be outside, and I don't buy it that people have to start in the gym and move outside when they are ready. As such, I climb outside every weekend and treat the gym like a gym.

That being said, I haven't taken the REI class, but, I suspect if you take that class, and read a book like this, you will be fine to start top-rope climbing outside (edit: take a class before you bother buying this book). Just make sure you feel comfortable. Most of outdoor climbing is being careful, thinking things though, not getting in over your head, and not overestimating your abilities (climbing and knowledge).

Meetup groups could also be a good idea, just be honest about your prior experience (for example, here is my local meetup group).

Also, some gyms offer indoor->outdoor transition classes.

Friday New Climber Thread because I'm a New Climber [R]

5 years, 7 months ago[deleted] posted submission on climbing.
March 14, 2014

It looks like it had been a few weeks since the last one, and seeing as today is 1) a Friday and 2) I just went on my first climb last weekend and can't wait for more, I thought I would start a FNCT for this week!

5 years, 7 months ago[deleted] posted on climbing.
March 14, 2014

I know this is standard advice, but I think it is very damaging. It means most climbing safety knowledge is passed down by word-of-mouth, potentially propagating some very bad practices. I've seen some "experienced" people doing very stupid things that they'd been "doing for years." It's a bad way to learn.

Climbing Anchors is a best-practices guide. If you want to be safety conscious you should point people there, not to some random "experienced" climber.

Friday New Climber Thread because I'm a New Climber [R]

5 years, 7 months ago[deleted] posted submission on climbing.
March 14, 2014

It looks like it had been a few weeks since the last one, and seeing as today is 1) a Friday and 2) I just went on my first climb last weekend and can't wait for more, I thought I would start a FNCT for this week!

5 years, 7 months ago[deleted] posted on climbing.
March 14, 2014

Since someone else is already doing the standard /r/climbing YERGONNADIE and assuming you are a moron, I'll give this a shot.

Your first purchase should be a book by John Long called Climbing Anchors. It's cheap and relatively short - you can get through it in an afternoon then keep it around as a reference.

After that, you'll have a very good idea of what products you'll need in order to rig a toprope, so I'll give you some guidance re: product differentiation.

You'll need locking carabiners, and they'll have some small variation in strength ratings. For top roping, these differences are irrelevant. The shape of the biners is important though - those huge screw-gates that are the size of your whole hand can be nice for belaying, but they are a total waste when it comes to rigging a toprope. Outdoorgearlab did a nice writeup on choosing lockers, I'll leave the rest up to you.

Even for top rope, I wouldn't buy a static line to climb on. Some people prefer it because they can also use it to rope-solo/jumar, and it's perfectly safe so long as you are diligent about keeping very little slack in the line, but it's much less versatile. You can't use it for sport climbing or trad, where a fall on a static line can pretty easily snap your spine. Get yourself a nice 60m dynamic line - anything 9.8mm in diameter and up will do nicely, anything above 10.2 will last for a long time.

For the anchor itself, it really depends on what's available at your local crag. Of course you'll need some 7mm accessory cord and some nylon slings to rig everything up, but nobody can tell you what you'll need in order to rig up a safe belay above any given pitch.

You'll need to read John Long, practice building and yanking out anchors on the ground, and really overbuild your anchors as you are starting out. Especially if you are placing gear, you'll make some mistakes and you don't want anyone to get hurt as a result. Placing five pieces of pro in the morning and coming back at the end of the day to find that two of them pulled out is a good lesson. Placing two and finding that you screwed both up is a very bad day.

Friday New Climber thread (Ouch my skin hurts edition) [R]

5 years, 8 months agoveritas8911 posted submission on climbing.
Feb. 14, 2014

So this week we learned how beta was invented,how to ice climb in the city,things jan hojer does to stay in shape, and how chill as fuck honnold is.

Other important things to note from the past week:

That sums up the top ten interest garnering stories from the past week.

As always this thread is about helping new climbers with any problems or questions they have encountered so far in the course of their climbing. If you are not so new but need refreshers or tips please feel free to participate. Thanks for your interest, and have a good day.

5 years, 8 months agoveritas8911 posted on climbing.
Feb. 14, 2014

Like soupy said, Freedom of the Hills is definitely the way to go. It gives an overview of basically all things mountaineering and cites everything so you can really research a particular subject.

For starting out, I would also recommend Climbing Anchors by John Long.. It gives a great overview of climbing anchors and systems as well as how to treat a lot of different gear. I would also suggest grabbing a 10-15ft piece of rope and practicing various climbing knots if you haven't learned many already. Happy climbing!

New years resolution is to climb 'The old man of Hoy', never done trad before.... Anyone got any good resources tips to get started! [R]

5 years, 9 months agoPadiddle posted submission on climbing.
Jan. 2, 2014

A little more background; I have been climbing for 4-5 years and been doing so both outdoors and indoors. I am competent in setting up 3 point anchors for top ropes but have never put my gear placement into practise on a route. I am also pretty competent when it comes to knots, ropework etc.

What im looking for is any books that people have read that they believe really helped nail down some tech stuff or advice on how people have built confidence in their gear placement.

Im based south of london so have access to some pretty good climbing locations so any recomendations on entry level trad routes would also be great!

Cheers Guys!

oh and this is the bad boy have set my sights on. There are about 4 really established routes and a number of other single assents etc. the easiest being a E1 overall with a 30m 5b pitch being the hardest on the route!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Man_of_Hoy

5 years, 9 months agoPadiddle posted on climbing.
Jan. 2, 2014

So first I would find someone to go trad climbing with who is experienced. Second them and see how they place the gear a few times and then have them follow you on a route well within your abilities and double check your placement. This is based on your statement that you have experience with knots, lead climbing, etc...

My personal favorite book about gear placement is John Long's Climbing Anchors. I'm a huge John Long fan and really like his writing style. He's also coming out with a book called the Trad Climber's Bible in February which I personally am excited for, but obviously I haven't read that yet so can't recommend.

5 years, 10 months agoAWildGingerAppears posted submission on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

I'm a competent 5.10 sport lead and have cleaned trad on single/multi-pitch routes many times before. I want to get myself educated in all of the gear and the proper ways to place them (although I know experience is the best educator, I like books :P).

Also, as the title suggests, I already have Freedom of The Hills 8th ed.

5 years, 10 months agoAWildGingerAppears posted on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

New to building anchors-- didn't die, but is this anchor leg OK? [R]

5 years, 11 months agoNov. 18, 2013

[deleted]

5 years, 11 months agopangian posted on climbing.
Nov. 18, 2013

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-3rd-Climb-Series/dp/0762782072/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1384808403&sr=8-1&keywords=climbing+anchors

Taking an anchor clinic from REI this weekend, can do a trip report of Reddit is interested. [R]

5 years, 11 months agohemingwaysbeard posted submission on climbing.
Oct. 24, 2013

Title pretty much says it all. I'm taking an anchor clinic through REI this weekend at Castle Rock SP. If folks voice some interest here, I'll take some pics and to a little trip report.

5 years, 11 months agohemingwaysbeard posted on climbing.
Oct. 25, 2013

I've done this exact class. There is a lot of practical anchor building esp. with natural anchors (all feet on the ground).

I found it to be okay. Afterwords, I needed to go find other information that was not covered for the type of climbing I want to do.

The course covers: Top Rope Anchors and the basics of knots. Using natural anchors. The cover does not cover: TRAD anchors (well at least). Gear placement.

Its good to hear this information from an experienced guide. But alot is their preference on building anchors. So much of it you need to reteach yourself for what you will actually use regularly. I found self teaching to be a more worthwhile investment for my time.

TL;DR I found this John Long book to be more helpful than the REI course. (but thats just one man's opinion)

Pro placement question [R]

6 years, 2 months agoTundraWolf_ posted submission on tradclimbing.
July 29, 2013

I am a new (wanna be) trad climber who has been mock leading. As a brief resume, I've taken 4 classes that covered building anchor though out the last year: 1 on rappeling/anchors, 1 on top rope anchors, 1 on canyoneering and 1 on lead climbing. I've build almost 100 top rope anchors with active/passive pro and/or natural anchors. I've also read a number of books on climbing, anchors, etc...

My question: is there a resource that provides example pro placements (specific to trad climbing) and a discussion of them? I do frequent http://jive-assanchors.com/ but the majority of posts is poorly placed pro or poorly built anchors, and they do go through an explanation of what is wrong and how it could be corrected, which is great. I just want more.

I know, I know: 'just do it' and 'I'm going to die'. Any other responses are welcome :)

TL/DR: Looking for examples of great pro placements

6 years, 2 months agoTundraWolf_ posted on tradclimbing.
July 29, 2013

john long's anchor book. it has tons of pictures and describes placement in minute detail.

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-3rd-How-Climb/dp/0762782072/ref=sr11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1375126110&sr=1-1&keywords=john+long+anchor