|Date||Price Action||Change %||Price Level|
|14 Mar, 2020||Price Drop||-6.67%||high|
|1 Mar, 2020||Price Increase||7.15%||highest|
|25 Feb, 2020||Price Drop||-0.04%||high|
|24 Feb, 2020||Price Increase||0.04%||high|
|10 Feb, 2020||On Sale||17.65%||high|
Amazon.com price change % swings above and below average price
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First Time Home Owner - Energy Consumption Question [R]6 months, 3 weeks agotomgabriele posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Aug. 28, 2019
I am a first time home owner looking for some information in the Energy Consumption department. I just got my first electric bill and it was $324. My energy company is saying I used 1800 KWH. I was wondering if there are independent companies that could come out to your house and inspect all things electrical to see how the KWH are being used? Or maybe a DIY solution that I could try? I'm almost positive my Central Air system is to blame, the unit is from the 1990's. But, I would still like to see the usage spread out across the board to see were the costs are coming from.
I apologize if this is a commonly asked question, or that it's been asked and solved here before. I did spend some time looking for a similar question, but none exactly similar to mine.
Thank you for your time
Aug. 28, 2019
So with the plug, rotate it around the biggest appliances in the house. Keep the fridge plugged in for a day, see what the average draw is, etc.
But you are right that heating/cooling is likely to be the culprit. The clamp meter will help you gauge its impact. Despite how it seems though, a 1990's air conditioner isn't dramatically less efficient than a new one...assuming it's in good working order. Make sure the condenser outside is all clear, no leaves piled up against it, dirt clogging the fins, etc. Then inside, follow the ducts wherever you can to make sure nothing came disconnected and is dumping conditioned air into you attic or something.
If it helps as a point of reference, our 2,400 sf house has central air from the 80's that is set for 75 when we're home and 82 when we're not, and our power bill for the July-Aug cycle when we were using AC consistently was $104. We're in coastal New England/ag zone 6b.
Then as the other commenter mentioned, your power company may offer free energy consultations where they come test your house for efficiency in a variety of ways, give you free LED bulbs and programmable thermostats, and make recommendations for how to reduce energy use.
Replacing Chandelier - Ground Wire Question [R]7 months, 2 weeks agofun_director posted submission on HomeImprovement.
Aug. 9, 2019
I recently replaced my chandelier; Running up the chain into the ceiling are the Hot, Neutral & Ground wires. I've connected the White to White, Black to Black & Ground to Ground (also wrapped the ground wire from the supply box around the ground screw). Here's my question:
Is the ground wire that is running up the chain (from the light fixture) safe to touch, let's say when dusting? I used a Kelin Tool pen and it does show 3 out 5 bars voltage at the touch. Not sure if that is normal? TIA
Aug. 10, 2019
There's proper voltmeters that can test it better than just a pen. I got this one.
Etekcity Auto Ranging Clamp Meter, Digital Multimeter with Amp,Volt,Ohm,Diode and Resistance Test https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NLKtDbMQ00KZ3
Need advice: Electric bill has skyrocketed the last 4 months and we have no idea what is causing it. [R]1 year agoCyberBill posted submission on HomeImprovement.
March 23, 2019
My wife and I live in a 2 bedroom, 1200 square foot apartment. We have lived here for roughly 2.5 years. Our typical energy bill has always been about $60-$80 monthly. Since November or December our bill has skyrocketed up as high as $210 monthly.
Our energy usage statement shows our gas usage has been consistent, but our electricity usage has gone way way up... the customer service rep at the energy company was shocked how much electricity we were using on a small apartment.
We haven't had any lifestyle changes, no new appliances, nothing that has changed so far as I can tell.
All of our appliances seem to be working correctly. If an appliance is malfunctioning, how can I tell? I can't hardly turn the fridge off for a month and hope the energy bill goes down.
(We are also having the electric company come test our meter. But it's been 5 weeks and they have yet to do so.)
I appreciate your responses.
March 23, 2019
The first thing you should do is confirm that your electricity bill is measuring your usage and not someone else's. This'll take you five minutes - go to your outside meter, it'll have a kWH value on it, compare this to your latest bill, and it should be nearly the same number - but with your current usages added to it. The meter should be spinning/blinking/showing usage somehow (depending if you have an analog meter or a digital one) - turn off main switch in your apartment's breaker panel, which will turn off power to your apartment, and then go check the meter. It should no longer be showing any usage at all. If it is - that's a problem - call the power company, talk to the apartment, etc.
Assuming that isn't the case, and that the power is being used in your apartment, and based on this:
We are using 41.4 kWh/day vs. 8.3 kWh/day for the same time period last year.
8.3kWh/day is roughly 350 watts (~3 amps) of continuous use. 41.4kWh/day is roughly 1750 watts (~15 amps) of continuous use.
So you likely have a draw in the range of 1400 watts - which is significant because at 110V-120V it's ~12 amps of current. That is... a LOT of additional draw.
While everyone's suggestion of using a Kill-A-Watt meter (or similar) is good, I think there is a much faster way of determining where the issue is, and that is by using a similarly priced device called a clamp meter. Here is a cheap one from Amazon:
You'll take off a handful of screws on the front of your breaker panel to open it up and expose the wires going into the breakers. One by one you put the clamp meter around the wires and check how many amps are being drawn. Note any high current draws of more than a few amps - then see what those breakers are connected to, or turn them off and see what happens. If you narrow down a list of devices on that breaker, you can turn them on/off one by one and see which is causing the draw. It should only take 5 minutes to check every line, which is way faster than using a kill-a-watt meter on every single thing plugged in.
Here's a video I found on YouTube showing how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar7qkMHKw40
Planning your build? We've made a Solar Calculator to help you size your electrical system! [R]1 year, 4 months agomoore77 posted submission on vandwellers.
Nov. 1, 2018
Nov. 1, 2018
There is a link in the FAQ on the page for how to do this. If it's an AC device (pluggs into a household wall), then the most accurate thing to do is buy a Kill-a-watt meter and actually measure it.
Most devices list their max power draw, either in watts or amps. If it's in watts, just plug that into the calculator. If it's in amps, we have the converter at the top of the page to get the watts. If you can't find the power listed on your device, but own the device, you can get an ammeter (like this one) and measure as it's being used.
Trying to track down my absurdly high energy usage but not sure what to try next [R]1 year, 8 months agoJuly 19, 2018
July 19, 2018
An AC clamp on meter is pretty cheap. Try $40, not $400.
You could also rent a thermal camera on the next hot day and see if you have any large uninsulated portions of the home, or any random hot spots in the yard (shorted wiring). Last time I rented one it was $100/day, but the low res one's should be a lot cheaper.
How long is the AC actually running? If you keep a log of compressor on time, you will get a better idea.
Another frequently missed expense on hot days is the bathroom fan. It blows out smelly air, but outside air comes in to replace it. That outside air is hot and wet and expensive to cool if that fan runs for long. I've heard of realestate agents turning them on long term to keep things odor free.
ABS Warning light help [R]2 years, 1 month agoscyth3s posted submission on nissanfrontier.
Feb. 20, 2018
I've gotten the ABS warning light showing in the dash on my 2009 Navara single cab (European frontier). The error code indicated left rear ABS sensor so i swapped it out with a new one. Disconnected the battery for 20-30 minutes, the error is still there. Anyone here experienced that it is NOT the ABS sensor but rather the cable going from the sensor to where it goes? IF yes would that kill my bank to replace or have someone troubleshoot?
This isn't really a big deal, but whenever the ABS light is on it won't let me engage 4x4, so i can't make the last hill to my house, thug life 2018 edition I guess.
Feb. 20, 2018
Yeah you even said that you changed it... My bad.
To the onboard diagnostics, there is no real difference between a magic box (sensor) and the magic pathway going to it. What kind of line goes to the sensor? Is it just a regular wire? Coax type line? Something else fancy? Do you have a multimeter? If so can you disconnect both ends and check resistance (ohms) through the wire?
Tomorrow is Amazon Prime Day. These items might be on sale. [R]2 years, 8 months agocurveballhomerun posted submission on vandwellers.
July 10, 2017
Tomorrow is Prime day, where among a ton of other things, physical items will be on sale. I skimmed this 154 page list (half way down the page) and here's some items I think would be useful for a vandweller, but not all vandwellers.
If you guys come up with more stuff, drop them in a top level comment. I'm sure there will be a ton of other items on sale as well, so I'd recommend checking in on your wishlists (or making one if you haven't).
Hope this helps someone looking for something!
Need UPS and PDU Recommendations [R]3 years, 3 months agoVA_Network_Nerd posted submission on sysadmin.
Nov. 29, 2016
I need to source a UPS and accompanying PDUs for a small server room with 4 Dell Servers, 3 Switches (1 POE), and 6-7 other network devices. I'd like to be able to run for 30 minutes. Budget is approx. $3000.
Nov. 29, 2016
No. Double the budget and come back.<hr />
servers draw Oh, I dunno 700W each typically, but can triple that under serious load.
A typical switch needs right around 200W.
A PoE switch needs 200W plus the PoE load.
I have no idea what "6-7 other network devices" means.
But lets be kind of safe and call them 300W each.
- Thats 2100W for servers.
- 900W for switches.
- 2100W for "other network devices".
- Lets add 1000W for things you forgot and/or surge capacity.
Thats 6,100W of capacity using rough, approximate estimates.
So for that base load you're looking at about an 8kVA UPS unit like this one:
He will run for 8 minutes at 6000W of load.
So we will need some extra batteries.
You're looking at two extra runtime battery packs like this one:
- Go find more money
- Go find more accurate information on load requirements.
- A Clamp Meter is your friend: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-MSR-C600-Digital-Multimeter-Resistance/dp/B00NWGZ4XC
Clamp that on a power cable, and it will tell you the amps passing through.
it might tell you the voltage too, or you will need to take a reading from an unused outlet using the two included probes.
Volts times Amps equals watts.
Total Wattage demand determines UPS size.
WARNING: devices use more power during boot-up than they do at idle.
Personally, at this size, I'd start thinking about a small Symmetra Frame like this:
Yeah, its more expensive.
But it offers N+1 redundancy / high-availability, and it can scale up to 16kVA by adding power modules.
Daily FI discussion thread - October 24, 2016 [R]3 years, 5 months agoOmnomniscient posted submission on financialindependence.
Oct. 24, 2016
Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply!
Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked.
Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts.
Oct. 24, 2016
I prefer one of these. If you can reach the cord (or wiring) you can take a measurement. The good thing is you can go into your electrical panel and clip it around the lead from each breaker individually without needing to dig for plugs. Once you find a suspicious circuit, you can teat the individual appliances plugged in.
[Help] New pump turns power off in the house for 2-3 seconds when I flip the breaker. [R]4 years, 1 month agotornadoRadar posted submission on electricians.
Feb. 22, 2016
I live in Mexico and we have a pump to pump water from our water tank to the tanks on our roofs...about 6 months ago our old pump burned out and we bought a new one (it's 1.5HP instead of 1.25HP if this matters) and it's just turned on/off with a breaker.
8 times out of 10 it turns on fine but the other 2 it cuts power in the whole property for 2 seconds and then power comes back and the pump kicks on...it especially does this if there are other draws from that same breaker box (we have a few different boxes on the property but the entire property cuts out when this happens).
I presume the new pump is taking more power to start up but I have no idea how to fix it so it doesn't cut our power out.
Thanks in advance for your help.
The far left breaker is for the pump in question and the name plate is in Spanish but I should be able to translate anything that's unclear.
Feb. 23, 2016
Wow. We sure do live in a different world, yet the same. I have the same breaker panel for my garage.
You're going to catch a lot of shit on here about double/triple tapping those breakers. I'm not even sure if they have tandem breakers down there but heres a link to what they look like: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-2-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Tandem-Circuit-Breaker-QO2020C/100075651
I assume the big breaker on the right is for the pool pump? The left breaker is good for 15amps. the pump says it pulls 23.2 amps. are you tripping that breaker as well from time to time?
Given you're comfortable with taking the cover off the panel I would suggest finding a digital multi meter with clamp. Not just for this, but for basic home troubleshooting. http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-MSR-C600-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=sr14?ie=UTF8&qid=1456266371&sr=8-4&keywords=multimeter+amp
This way you can clamp it on the power wire for the pump and see the draw. you could also clamp the white wire to see overall. It'll also check your voltage to see if its pulling it down. basically it would allow for actual troubleshooting vs trial and error.
220v might help your situation.
Fix chest freezer which isn't cooling [R]4 years, 1 month agoFernbay posted submission on howto.
Feb. 18, 2016
Hello everyone. I bought a chest freezer from craigslist and made the mistake of not asking for the guy to have to run overnight before coming to get the freezer to show that it functioned. In fact, it never even occurred to me. So, I was bamboozled into buying a "perfectly working" chest freezer which does not cool below 55 F. The freezer is about 7.2 cu ft and I paid $50 to some lying cheat from craigslist.
The typical response I found on google to a broken freezer is to just buy a new one, which I could, but outside of this freezer not cooling it's in really good physical shape. I am also someone who doesn't mind a challenge as I am pretty technically and mechanically savvy, but I have no refrigeration background.
I am looking for some guidance on how I can troubleshoot to figure out what the problem is and assess if a repair is worthwhile. All I can say at the moment is the unit has power, I hear the compressor running and that is it. I haven't looked at all the exposed cooper yet to find a potential hole to where refrigerate could have leaked out.
So, what can I do? Any help is appreciated! Let's keep from adding another item to the landfills if possible! Thanks in advance.
Feb. 18, 2016
clamp/tong meter > http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-MSR-C600-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=sr13?ie=UTF8&qid=1455841113&sr=8-3&keywords=clamp+meter
Manifold gauges > http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Charging-Service-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B01617TZ8S/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1455841229&sr=8-1&keywords=refrigerant+gauges
Bullet valve to gain access to refrigerant circuit > http://www.amazon.com/Supco-BPV31-Bullet-Piercing-Valve/dp/B00DM8J3MI/ref=sr12?ie=UTF8&qid=1455841272&sr=8-2&keywords=BULLET+VALVE
R134a refrigerant with charging valve and UV leak testing dye > http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-AFK-11CS-Arctic-Synthetic-Recharging/dp/B001810SHA/ref=sr16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1455841363&sr=1-6&keywords=R134a
Battery discharged on my E46 after leaving it for 10 days. Is that normal? [R]4 years, 4 months agonolotusnotes posted submission on BmwTech.
Nov. 4, 2015
For a well running car and new battery (6-months old), how many weeks could you leave the car not running before it drained? Should it drain at all? This is the 3rd instance this year where the battery has died while car was parked at home. After the 2nd time, AAA guy pointed out the battery was discharged well below threshold and had to be replaced so I had a new OEM replacement installed at a reputed BMW shop.
Update: Jump started car using our family SUV and will check for battery drain in 1-2 days after it's fully charged. I will be parking car for 1-2 weeks during the holidays. What type of battery tender would you suggest?
Nov. 22, 2015
> UNI-T UT-210E
Would this suffice?: