|Date||Price Action||Change %||Price Level|
|10 Feb, 2019||Price Drop||-25.85%||low|
|8 Feb, 2019||Price Drop||-2.88%||average|
|5 Feb, 2019||Price Drop||-18.86%||average|
|30 Jan, 2019||Price Increase||71.14%||average|
|15 Jan, 2019||Price Increase||42.28%||low|
Amazon.com price change % swings above and below average price
Discussion and Reviews on Reddit
WD40 gets all over the place and Graphite is messy. What is the best lubricant for lockpicking? [R]3 months agoTehGogglesDoNothing posted submission on lockpicking.
July 15, 2019
I tried to word the question to dodge the 'use KY' responses. :)
Ready for assembly [R]5 months, 4 weeks agoxorian posted submission on MechanicalKeyboards.
April 23, 2019
April 23, 2019
Is it that difficult to buy a bag? [R]10 months, 2 weeks agoFjolsvithr posted submission on DiWHY.
Dec. 8, 2018
Dec. 8, 2018
For me, it's because it's like a $5.00 bag (at most), and two hours isn't worth $5.00 for me. Other people might enjoy it for the sake of crafting something, but it's just not very economical. Might also be worth it if you had an umbrella with a cute print you hate to lose.
Sources on prices:
Really Slow Descent of the Z Axis [R]1 year agoJulioDMartinez posted submission on ender3.
Sept. 24, 2018
Hey guys, I noticed my X axis is not leveled so I followed the youtube video on how to level the X axis. I was able to level it successfully and put everything back in order again. I turned it on and set to auto home and noticed a really slow descent of the Z axis. I am wondering if anybody can help me out with this?
Sept. 24, 2018
Usually the cause is the plate the z axis rod mounts to isn't perfectly perpendicular to the gantry and rod itself. So if you tightened the screws that hold the thread attachment for the z axis rod, then the movement will be really tight. If you don't want to bend the plate back I would suggest you first lubricate the z rod with good non grease lithium lubricant. This is the one I use DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCVXUR6?ref=yopopma_swf
If that does not free it up sufficiently you can either loosen the screws that hold the threaded mount for the z rod, or try to bend the plate into 90 degrees of the gantry and z rod.
New CR-10S - bad left "Z" axis within the system board? [R]1 year, 2 months agowickedsun posted submission on CR10.
July 27, 2018
I recently purchased a CR-10S, and I'm running into a bit of trouble.
The left stepper for the “Z” axis is not functioning properly. I've removed it from it's mount to have a better chance to eyeball it. (For testing purposes, I've unplugged the right “Z” axis stepper).
I go and perform an axis move for Z, (just for this left motor). When I make selections (with only the left stepper), the motor doesn't really spin at all. If I give it a slight twist via my hand, it might move the shaft 10-20 degree's.
So I disconnected the left stepper from it's left Z connector, and then connected that same stepper to the right hand “Z” connector. Ran the same test, and the motor spins like a champ. Both clockwise and counterclockwise.
All of the other stepper's and their axis are working just fine.
So something must be up within the system board? I presume I'll return it the Creality (who I bought it from).
July 27, 2018
I don't know much about the 10S (own a CR-10), but usually Z motors are running on the same wire, so I doubt it would be that. What's going on here I would think is that your Z bar isn't level or your left Z rod isn't 100% straight.
If that's not the case, and especially if your CR-10S is second hand, the Z rods can get a bit dirty from grease and dust. Rub the rods with tissues until it looks metallic.
Order this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCVXUR6/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And apply it when the rods are clean (else it'll trap the gunk inside). This will make it easier for the motors to lift the bar.
C64C key keeps sticking down [R]1 year, 4 months agomattb2014 posted submission on c64.
June 6, 2018
The 8 key on my keyboard will stick down unless I hit it dead centre and I have to pull it back up. I've taken it and the surrounding keys off and while the other plungers return when I depress them, the 8 plunger stays down. The spring under the keycap is able to compensate for this somewhat, but it will stick unless I hit it dead centre. Anyone have an idea of how I can fix this?
June 12, 2018
Super lube, while great for stabilizers will unfortunately attract dust and gum things over time making your situation worse in the long run.
The first thing I would try would be to remove the screws on the back of the keyboard, desolder the connections for shift lock, take the pcb off, pull the slider out and clean the slider and it's hole thoroughly with a q tip and some alcohol. What is happening to the key is known as binding and is most often caused by dirt interfering with the slider. The process really sounds more difficult than it is. It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. I would certainly try this first before putting anything like lube in the keyboard.
Alternatively, take all the keycaps off (use a proper keycap puller so you don't damage anything), take all the plungers out, give everything a good cleaning and reassemble.
Soaking the keycaps in denture cleaner tablets and warm water (not hot or you will deform the abs caps) and rinsing with water (and scrubbing with a tooth brush) is a great way to clean the grime off of the key caps while you have them off anyway.
If that still doesn't help, try swapping sliders to see if it is a bad slider or bad hole. Replacement sliders can be had on eBay pretty cheap, or swap the 8 with a key you don't use often.
Lastly, if you have to, you can use a dry lube like this to help reduce the binding.
Good luck with your keyboard, let me know if you need any more info.
Source: mechanical keyboard enthusiast who has cleaned, repaired, and restored many IBM Buckling Spring, Alps, Cherry MX and C64 keyboards.
Dry lube for switches [R]1 year, 10 months agomattb2014 posted submission on MechanicalKeyboards.
Dec. 21, 2017
Just wondering if anyone has experimented with any other types of loops besides grease, for example maybe something silicone-based. I'm guessing graphite wouldn't work because it's conductive ?
[GB] R7 Zealios/Tealios/Zeal60/Zeal Stabilizers/Zealencios now live! [R]2 years, 2 months agoShensmobile posted submission on MechanicalKeyboards.
Aug. 1, 2017
Aug. 1, 2017
I believe it's this: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-Squeeze/dp/B00BCVXUR6/
Although it looks like it has a new bottle style, I'll confirm when I get home and take a look at what I have.
[help] Lubing or fixing rough Black Alps [R]3 years, 3 months agojbondeson posted submission on MechanicalKeyboards.
July 20, 2016
Hey all, So I've been using a Dell AT101W at work and noticed the keys feel a bit rough and scratchy when I press them. Is there any way I can lubricate these keys to make them feel smoother? Thanks.
July 20, 2016
There are a few threads on DT and GH where we've discussed this.
I haven't done this to Blacks, but have had great success with Cream and Salmons. Disassemble them, clean thoroughly with isotropy alcohol, then lube the stem and casing at all contact points with a dry teflon lubricant (I use the DuPont lubricant). It's a little messy so you may want to use a needle point applicator to deliver it.
Once reassembled I've found that they are super smooth and snappy.
I'm driving from Arizona to Pennsylvania, what are your tips for long road trips? [R]4 years, 1 month agomotorboatnowork posted submission on motorcycles.
Sept. 3, 2015
My bike is my only vehicle and only once have I taken it on a long ride, a 2 hour bike to Phoenix and back. But other than that it's gotten me to the grocery store, work, etc.
I'm doing the usual, oil change, chain maintenance, tire pressure check. But the bike is still new; 5300 miles. Bought it last year.
Any tips for packing, riding position, or other essentials I might need to know about? Is baby powder as awesome as it sounds?
Sept. 3, 2015
I would bring along a squeeze bottle of DuPont's Teflon lube for the chain. Recommended lubing is every 600 miles, 300 if you ride in the rain, so you'll definitely have to lube up at some point.
A cruise control is also useful for relaxing your right hand. I have something like this, though not sure if the same brand. It works well enough for how much it costs.
Bring some sort of a rain jacket as it will rain, and make sure your luggage is water resistant too.
And don't cut your gas range too close. If your range is 140 miles, and you're on mile 120, go ahead and fuel up.
HOTAS Lubrication [R]4 years, 5 months agoMay 16, 2015
What is an appropriate lube for a squeaky Saitek X52 HOTAS system?
May 16, 2015
A nice dry film lubricant. This is what I ended up using on my X52 Pro.
My Rhino X55 is feeling dry in spots - Any suggestions? [R]4 years, 6 months agobanzaiib posted submission on EliteDangerous.
March 23, 2015
Coming off center I can feel and hear creak my joystick as it travels in any axis. At first it was just side to side motion but now it's beginning to do it front to back as well. It does it about 1/8 of the way into the travel and then goes to being smooth and quiet again. Very frustrating to have to counter for this stickiness feeling of the stick. It's becoming worse and I'm not familiar what type of lube I can use on the shaft (no jokes mkay :D) or maybe there are some mods to make the sticks action smooth like it was when it was new. I remember reading to never lube the gimbal as it could cause issues so maybe this is a shaft issue? This stick is only like 2-3 months old. I will post a video later if it will help show what I'm talking about. Does anyone else with this stick have the same problem and do you know of a way to correct it? I'm afraid to use any petroleum based lube in fear it might break down the plastic plus those just seem to be a mess and build up gunk/dirt over time.
I really don't want to send it in for repair because ....well....I still want to play Elite :D. So I'm hoping a fellow CMDR can chime in with good news on ways to fix this issue! My throttle is also sticky but I read this as a common complaint and I just row the thing back and forth to heat up the lube and it becomes smooth for a bit until the lube cools back down. My issue is primarily the joystick.
X-55 Rhino Issues. Fixes! [R]4 years, 10 months agobanzaiib posted submission on EliteDangerous.
Dec. 8, 2014
Like a lot of people I started out on a T.Flight Hotas X. It was great but lacked buttons and hats for all the extra stuff you need so I invested in an X-55 Rhino. Love the buttons but it had two issues for me which I then found out had been reported quite a bit.
The first issue is the throttle is too stiff, even on the loosest setting. I've lived with this for a while but find I can lift the whole throttle off the desk when grabbing for the brakes! I found the fix for this is to undo all the screws on the bottom, and when you lift the base away from the throttle you'll see a curved brake assembly. Now there's white grease on the cogs (leave that) and there's a transparent goop on the curved runners. There's a lot of it and by wiping away as much as I could, I was able to loosen up the throttle to an acceptable level. You can still tighten it back up if you need to but it gives you more range now. The goop seems to vary viscosity with heat so if you want to give it a bigger boost, after doing this fix, give it a good fast waggle back and forth. That seems to loosen it up further for a few minutes. Over time, this may help more and more.
The second issue is the squeak and stutter from the twist rudder on the main stick. I had this from new and it never got any better (in fact got worse). I'd researched that issue before and found suggestions of adding graphite powder etc. to the stick as well as to wipe away excess grease from the mounting post. I hadn't got any graphite lube so tried a silicon grease which made it much worse (was actually sticking on angle now!) and also a 3 in 1 oil which just ran out the bottom.
Turns out graphite is the answer but carefully placed. I've seen a video where a guy has loads inside his stick and the rudder pot isnt going to like it if conductive graphite gets onto its resistor track. So when you look inside the stick, there are two black plastic parts that clip together. You need to get it in there and down the gap between them.
I used this (in the UK, from Maplins, £3). http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ambersil-graphite-lock-lubricant-n68jb It comes out as a liquid (alcohol and graphite) then the alcohol evaporates leaving dry graphite powder.
I also found it helped hugely to apply it to the top of the grey locking ring (where it meets the black plastic of the stick). When doing this, do it mounted to the joystick base. unscrew the 5 screws holding the side of the stick on and carefully remove (and unplug the bit you are taking off). Clean the top of the grey locking ring of any grease or oil. then two tiny squirts of this stuff and waggle the rudder to rub it into place. Doing both these fixes has massively improved my hotas experience and has returned what is an expensive joystick to something closer to my expectations.
It helped me, hopefully it can help you.
Dec. 8, 2014
This stuff works GREAT!!! Just make sure you shake it very well before using. Copious amounts on the bottom of the flight stick help with the "clicking" of the rudder twist. I highly recommend unplugging the stick before applying...
How To | Season a Cast Iron Skillet [R]5 years, 3 months agoChickenMcTesticles posted submission on BuyItForLife.
July 3, 2014
Have a squeaky door? Use coconut oil. [R]6 years, 1 month agoSept. 6, 2013
TECH TUESDAY 2013-07-09 [R]6 years, 3 months agoNyxian posted submission on airsoft.
July 9, 2013
Good morning ladies and gents, it's the day after Monday, meaning it must be Tech Tuesday. If you've got problems with your airsoft equipment, or simply want to know what upgrades you should get, this is a great place to ask.
July 9, 2013
I wouldn't worry about the hop bucking too much. If the hop bucking was improperly set, and you were still shooting every-other time, you'd double-feed shots, or it would jam entirely. It is still worth it to check it out, and possibly swap back to the old barrel for testing purposes, but probably not it.
This is most likely relating to the air nozzle. The problem you describe "One trigger pull will fire, then the next one won't" is an issue with the BBs not getting from the mag, to the hop chamber properly.
I'd suggest: Clean out the hop chamber with Q tips to get inside both where the air nozzle cycles, and where BBs feed from. Ensure the air nozzle is sitting properly. Make sure the mags are feeding fine.
I would highly suggest using a dry lubricant on all of the feeding ramps.