CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

Last Updated On Thursday November 14th, 2019
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The Price has Dropped! But is it Cheap?

- The best price we've seen on Amazon in the past 12 months was on June 8, 2019. The current price is considered low and a good time to buy. It is 4% higher than the cost at its lowest.

Table of Contents

currently low price

41% Drop

Updated November 14, 2019

Price Checks

Current price is higher than the price on Jun 8, 2019.
Current price is low in the past 12 months.
Used not available currently.

Price Activity

DatePrice ActionChange %Price Level
21 Sep, 2019Price Drop-41.39%low
2 Sep, 2019Price Increase39.93%low
1 Sep, 2019Price Drop-4.11%low
29 Aug, 2019Price Increase4.29%low
26 Aug, 2019Price Drop-16.64%low
Update on 14 Nov, 2019 price change % swings above and below average price

Showing: Area under 0 show price is cheaper than average. Above 0 shows higher price than average.

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CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

Product Details

  • Sold on
  • B000BXOGNI Amazon ASIN
  • CRC Brand
  • Categories

    Electrical Cleaners, Automotive, Oils & Fluids, Cleaners

Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 74 Reviews
  • July 20, 2019 Last Review Date
  • June 3, 2013 First Seen Review Date
  • 50 Reviewed on Subreddits

    NintendoSwitch (7)
    techsupport (5)
    buildapc (4)
    electronic_cigarette (4)
    buildapcsales (3)
    techsupportgore (3)
    airsoft (2)
    nes (2)
    oneplus (2)
    pcmasterrace (2)
    and 40 more...

Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

[GEAR] Guitar or amp having a problem and won't work. Help [R]

3 months, 3 weeks agoCanserDYI posted submission on Guitar.
July 20, 2019

Hello So I haven't played in a year but I picked up my guitar again. Before I stopped I had it for 2 or 3 years and I played very few times. TOday I tried to play and the first thing I noticed was that the amp didn't make a noise when it was on OD. Turns out that it won't work entirely expect in random positions between gain and volume. When I turn the nobs up or down the amp does this crazy loud sound like it burned and the guitar the only sound I can hear is from the strings of the guitar when I play, not from the amp. Any guesses guys? My guitar is a les Paul studio goth by epiphone and the amp is a Marshall mg15

PC turns on but no signal to monitors. [R]

4 months agoDewey_the_25U posted submission on techsupport.
July 14, 2019

Windows 10. CPU: Intel I7-4790 GPU: GTX 980Ti 16GB DDR3 RAM Corsair Vengeance Asus 885M Mobo Cooler Master 600w power supply.

Hi. So my problem is that there's no signal coming to the monitors. This all happened after I forgot to close my window before work and during my shift a lightning storm came riding and my room got soaked, along with my PC. Fast forward 5-6 hours I get home and try to power on my PC. It does that fine but now the monitors get no signal. My keyboard doesn't light up which I find strange and my mouse is emitting a bright white light which it usually does for about 1 second when I boot up my computer. I'm guessing there's something wrong with my GPU?

4 months agoDewey_the_25U posted comment on techsupport.
July 14, 2019

Probably, you can take it apart and see if there's any corrosion and use it a little bit of contact cleaner with a brush to remove it.



I use the brush and contact cleaner at work whenever components get wet and have started coating what I can with a Nonconformal Silicon Coating to try and save me some of the headache. It's not ideal, but yey. =/

Problem w Panasonic Rd-3500 turntable [R]

5 months, 1 week agoJarvicious posted submission on diyaudio.
June 4, 2019
5 months, 1 week agoJarvicious posted comment on diyaudio.
June 5, 2019

I swapped most of the parts in my Technics SL230 which looks very similar to yours. Started with replacing the caps on the power board, then replaced the belt, the motor and cleaned the crap out of the trim pots. Ended up being the pots that were causing the issues. Get yourself some contact cleaner and clean the switch and look for any small trim pots on the main board. Clean all the internal parts first to make sure you're getting good connectivity, then start buying replacements.

I spilled some coca cola on my power button and the 2usb and jacks besides it. [R]

7 months, 2 weeks agoLetTheJamesBegin posted submission on techsupport.
March 30, 2019

I spilled coca cola on my case. It was only around the power button which also has 2usb slots and 2jacks for headphone. It affected only them. I immediately turned the PC upside down and unpluged the main power source. Until, I pluged it out everything was working. More than an hour has passed away with my PC laying upside down in a rather warm room with sun shining on it. What do I do? How much do I wait before plugging it back on. If everything is working fine, what do I do with the extra usbs and jacks? Tell me what I need to know. Thank you!

Edit: It shouldn't be as bad as I think it is. The cola didn't get that far in. But I am still scared.

7 months, 2 weeks agoLetTheJamesBegin posted comment on techsupport.
March 30, 2019

That's actually a pretty lucky spill, honestly.

For spills, you need well over 24 hours in a warm, dry environment, preferably with a desiccant. But as /u/Wackydude1234 points out, the residue is more of a problem in this situation, both due to corrosion and ants (it can get worse than you think). You'll need to find a way to clean the parts to prevent damage. For something like pop, you just need to wait long enough that the syrup isn't runny anymore. A few hours should be plenty.

For best results, you should try to disassemble the affected panels of your case (the plastic panels usually snap on somehow), then disconnect and remove the affected electronics before cleaning them. Your power button probably won't suffer more than just becoming sticky. It's a very simple switch that usually makes contact with a plastic aesthetic button. The USB/audio jacks should be a single small circuit board connected internally by a wire.

If you can remove the entire plastic panel, you can clean it with dishwater or isopropyl alcohol. Just make sure there are no metal springs or screws that could get wet, as they will rust.

The electronic parts can be cleaned using either:

  1. Whatever you use, let it penetrate (or blast) into the parts you're cleaning and manipulate any moving parts thoroughly.
  2. Follow up by spraying an electronics duster spray through the parts to evacuate any remaining moisture so it can evaporate.
  3. Repeat 1 and 2 until satisfied.
  4. I always let parts air dry for at least an hour if I'm sure there's no water remaining.
  5. Reassemble and go.

FYI, your computer will work fine without the front connectors, and you can actually keep using the power button while it dries (it's too primitive to present an electrical risk).

[Mouse] (Amazon Official) Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse - $29.99 [R]

7 months, 3 weeks agoslaugaus posted submission on buildapcsales.
March 26, 2019
7 months, 3 weeks agoslaugaus posted comment on buildapcsales.
March 26, 2019

Some fixes that people in past threads had:

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

I remapped one of the side buttons to act as the middle click.

My solution: Blow really hard with you lips sealed around the scroll wheel. I have three G602s in service and have used this solution many times. It's not a permanent fix, but as long as you aren't using middle click in an action game, refixing it takes only a breath.

Starter issues, any ideas? [R]

8 months, 1 week agoMorleyDotes posted submission on motorcycles.
March 8, 2019
8 months, 1 week agoMorleyDotes posted comment on motorcycles.
March 8, 2019

Squirt some of this in the starter button.

Asked a friend who's a nurse what this could be: "Literally anything." [R]

10 months, 1 week agobubonis posted submission on techsupportgore.
Jan. 10, 2019
10 months, 1 week agobubonis posted comment on techsupportgore.
Jan. 10, 2019

This is going to sound like bad advice but really it's not: Your keyboard is a biohazard. It is unsafe to simply throw away as it is now. If you have no intention of rescuing it then put it (as-is) into a dishwasher, run a full normal cycle, then throw it away when it comes out. But those HP keyboards are actually pretty tough to kill; I'd be very surprised if you couldn't rescue it. I've dealt with far, far worse. Blood, vomit, feces, and urine from all different kinds of creatures. I once had to clean a dead rat off a keyboard, and it had been dead for awhile.

Don disposable gloves, face mask, and safety glasses. Pop off all the keys and set them aside. Unscrew the bottom (about 12 screws) and pry the two halves of the case apart. Remove all the electronics. Be careful here; depending on the specific model of HP keyboard you may have a bunch of little silicone cups under the keys which will bounce everywhere and be impossible to find later on. You can clean all that stuff under the keys with plastic-safe electronics cleaner.

Put the two plastic case halves into the top rack of the dishwasher. Put the keys into a mesh laundry bag, tie it closed, and put it the top rack of the dishwasher. Use either no detergent or a phosphate-free detergent (phosphate-based detergents can discolor the plastics). Let it run a full normal cycle with NO HEAT drying.

If you don't have a mesh laundry bag then get a microwave-safe bowl, fill it with water, and nuke it until it's about 160 degrees F. Pour some disinfectant cleaner into it (e.g., Lysol) and drop the keys in. Let the keys soak for about five minutes, then give it a gentle stir. Repeat for about a half hour. Pour off the water, refill the bowl with fresh water, agitate, and pour off the water again. Repeat until the water isn't removing anything else.

Allow all the plastics to air dry. If there's "hardened bits" on the now-clean keyboard plastics, clean it off with disinfectant and elbow grease, scraping as needed. Give everything a wipedown with disinfectant when you're done (don't forget the cable and USB/PS2 connector) then reassemble.

Yummy [R]

11 months, 3 weeks agoefpe3s posted submission on techsupportgore.
Nov. 27, 2018
11 months, 3 weeks agoefpe3s posted comment on techsupportgore.
Nov. 27, 2018

If air and brush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

The joycon controllers are so apt for casual/lazy gaming that I have stopped using other gaming systems [R]

1 year agoPieman492 posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 27, 2018

There is just something about the joycons that you can lay back on the bed and lazily hold each of them in your hands while playing in docked mode. This enables me to just lay back in any position I want while with a real controller, I still have to adjust my body a little in order to play. And the added bonus of these joycons turning into dual controllers in case of co-op is a blessing. I have stopped using my PC since a few months cuz the gyro and the comfortability of the joycons outweights the accuracy of a mouse/keyboard combination. I am now trying to figure out how to use joycons as a controller on PC. Gushing over!

1 year agoPieman492 posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 28, 2018

Have you tried using Electronic Contact Cleaner (somthing like this)? It's like some sort of magic drift fixing fluid. Just use the nozzle that comes with it, put it underneath the thin rubber sheet between the stick and the inside of the joycon and spray. Once I did this and after it dried the single worst case of joystick drift I've ever seen in my life was fixed.

When you get close to the cube on ps4, your remote turns purple. Nice addition. [R]

1 year agoALonelyPlatypus posted submission on FortNiteBR.
Oct. 22, 2018
1 year agoALonelyPlatypus posted comment on FortNiteBR.
Oct. 23, 2018

Electric contact cleaner took care of my joycon drifting. Only 5 bucks on amazon.

The Joy Con is literally the worst controller i’ve ever had in my hands [R]

1 year agoJelzap posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 15, 2018


1 year agoJelzap posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 15, 2018

Seconding this. Electronic contact cleaner is the only thing that has fixed my drift issues on my left joycon, after trying compressed air and a toothbrush to no success. Thankfully it’s pretty cheap (around $5). The drifting occasionally returns every few months on my joycon, but every time it does, I just apply some cleaner, and the problem is resolved.

Contorller's left stick only works properly if slightly pushed in. [R]

1 year, 1 month agoAlmightyDog posted submission on techsupport.
Oct. 9, 2018

Otherwise, without pushing it in at all it has false registration points.

I made a program in the past, that I could move my mouse with. I also made it able to show the circular movement of the left stick. So I "drew" this:

I was thinking about getting it apart and seeing what I could do, but I'm yet to do that. Any other help is appreciated.

1 year, 1 month agoAlmightyDog posted comment on techsupport.
Oct. 9, 2018

I had a similar issue. Not sure what controller you have, but on mine, a Logitech F710, the sticks are not digital, they are analog potentiometers.

Basically its a variable resistor. It has the disadvantage of mechanical arm that sweeps against a surface to vary the voltage output. This contact point can become dirty, or in extreme cases, wear off.

I took mine apart, and even though I couldn't open up the potentiometer to inspect it, there were enough gaps in the case of the thing that I could get a squirt or two of electrical contact cleaner into it, and then rotate the stick around to "scrub" off any dirty spots on the arm/surface contact point. It has worked fine now for over a year.

This is what I used.... found it at a auto parts store near by, but you should be able to find it at some hardware stores or online:

Just look up your controller's model number and "teardown" or "repair" on youtube, and if its a popular enough controller, there should be tons of videos on how to take it apart safely.

How many joycons have you gone through since owning the switch? [R]

1 year, 1 month agoBackroadTwistarama posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 1, 2018

A few months ago my joycons started ghosting and sent them in to Nintendo because they were still under warranty. Now they're back to ghosting again. I refuse to buy new joycons for bad engineering. I found the joycon joysticks for $10 each and I'm just going to replace them myself.

1 year, 1 month agoBackroadTwistarama posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 2, 2018

Hijacking your comment for visibility, although I'm a bit late to discussion here.

I had the same problem many in here have experienced, and this stuff below is specifically made to evaporate dirt that cause unwanted inputs in electronic devices.

I have two joycons that drifted. One was terrible, and nothing I did helped. The tester thing would be full-blown stuck to the right, but after a couple of sprays of this stuff it was good as new. It came back a bit once or twice, but I think there was some residual dirt in there and it's been perfect for the past few months after being completely unusable. After I did this another joycon started to drift a little and one spray has completely fixed it.

Just make sure the joycon is not on when you use it. The spray is liquid for about 10-15 seconds so you don't want anything to be running in there or it could cause damage.

Are the control sticks on your Joy-Cons drifting? This is how to fix it. [R]

1 year, 1 month agoBillDino posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 1, 2018

This is not guaranteed to work and effects may be temporary

A while back I helped another user with his own drifting issue, so I figured I might as well post the steps I gave him here.

1. Make sure the problem isn't a connection issue. Test the Joy-Con in both hand-held and tabletop/docked modes at different distances.

2. Go through the recalibration process in Settings.

Now familiarize yourself with the rubber dust guard under the control sticks. You’ll be using this a lot.

3. Nintendo support first recommends to get a dry toothbrush and clean under the rubber cap. If you’re having trouble getting it under the cap just sort of wiggle it in. Be very careful not to tear it though.

4. Repeat #3 but with an ear Q-Tip instead.

5. Get a can of compressed air (very cheap at any general store) and stick the air tube under the rubber cap. Blow small puffs of air through all sides. You could also just lift the cap with your fingernail and blow into it with your mouth, but your saliva could damage the components inside.

6. I’m not too sure if this step if safe, but I was recommended to do this by others. Be wary. Use electronic contact cleaner and rub it on a Q-Tip. Repeat step #4 with the dampened Q-Tip. If the cleaner has a spray small enough for the rubber cap you could also try that.

If nothing is working at this point you should be retrying past steps, looking into sending them in, or getting ready to replace them. Sadly, sometimes nothing works and your controllers are just busted.

If these solutions did work for you, remember that drift can easily come back. If you live in a dusty house/environment try to keep you Switch in a carrying case when not in use. Cleaning them regularly can also help.

Hopefully this helps some of you resolve your issues, as these worked out pretty well for me. Also, sorry about the click-bait title.

1 year, 1 month agoBillDino posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Oct. 1, 2018

This has fixed mine

Found it from a switch mod bot post

Is Logitech making a succesor to the g602? it's the best mouse because of the thin side buttons. [R]

1 year, 2 months agomaultify posted submission on LogitechG.
Aug. 22, 2018

No other mouse has the side buttons in the same shape/layout as the G602. It is absolutely the best mouse I have ever had. Unfortunately, they don't last as long and I've gone through four in three years.

I wished they also came out with a wired/wireless hybrid version. Please make it happen G!

1 year, 1 month agomaultify posted comment on LogitechG.
Sept. 24, 2018

I've went through 3, but that was before I was able to fix the middle button. I highly recommend getting some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since.

Unless you've been having other issues...

[Mouse] Logitech G602 - 29.99 [R]

1 year, 1 month agomaultify posted submission on buildapcsales.
Sept. 16, 2018
1 year, 1 month agomaultify posted comment on buildapcsales.
Sept. 20, 2018

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

[Mouse] Logitech G602 - 29.99 [R]

1 year, 1 month agomaultify posted submission on buildapcsales.
Sept. 16, 2018
1 year, 1 month agomaultify posted comment on buildapcsales.
Sept. 20, 2018

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

Joy-Cons Drifting After Using For Over a Year? [R]

1 year, 1 month agoSept. 18, 2018


1 year, 1 month agoCSBreak posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Sept. 18, 2018

try electronic cleaner worked for me and i just used the tiniest spray of it i could i think someone wrote a guide on here at some point

How can I clean/deodorized my vintage amp without taking the entire thing apart? [R]

1 year, 2 months agomrbrownstone posted submission on audiophile.
Sept. 12, 2018

I have a vintage yamaha M4 amp. It sounds great, but it's a bit dirty inside and smells funky. Not sure why. I don't think I have the expertise to disassemble the whole thing. Would any of the following work?

  • Submerge it in a bath of 99% isopropyl alcohol
  • Spray it down inside and out with electronics cleaner. If so, what's the best one to use?
  • Any other suggestions?

Right joycon analog stick malfunctioning [R]

1 year, 2 months agoajax54 posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Sept. 8, 2018


1 year, 2 months agoajax54 posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Sept. 8, 2018

This is the stuff.

You can get it at walmart in the automotive section for the same or lower price.

If you are outside the states, there are a few altenatives. It needs to be safe for plastics, and 'no residue', preferably 'Quick Drying' or "QD"

Joy Con D-Pad already worn out [R]

1 year, 2 months agoajax54 posted submission on NintendoSwitch.
Sept. 1, 2018

Sad to say but it's been less than a year with my switch and the D-Pad analog stick on my left joy con is already starting to fail. Kind of surprised at how quickly it degraded. I don't play much I have about 250 hours in Rocket League and maybe 50ish in other games combined, 90% of that is in handheld mode. I'm mostly experiencing heavily reduced inputs. I also get movement when I'm not touching the control and complete misses of my inputs. The tension on the D-Pad analog stick is noticeably less compared to the right side. Anyway you get the picture I'm a little bummed, It's been a great controller hope this is just a one off. I might send it into Nintendo for warranty repair of fix it myself. There seems to be a few sellers on ebay with cheap "OEM" replacement joy con parts. Might just stock up on a bunch of those and replace when they break.


It's been a long day, I meant the analog stick not the d-pad. My D-Pad works great I can still fire away those sweet sweet "sorry" quick chats all day long.

1 year, 2 months agoajax54 posted comment on NintendoSwitch.
Sept. 1, 2018

Mine did this exactly. [This is the contact cleaner I used] ( and many others have had success with it too. It's also in the automotive section of walmart for the same price.

There's a dust cover at the base of the joystick. Make sure the controller is off, tilt the stick and lift the doughnut cover with a credit card or toothpick. Then spray some of the cleaner in. Move the joystick around then repeat from the other side. Keep the cover lifted while the cleaner is drying.

Rx200 automatically increasing the wattage to maximum 250. I cant do anything i think the problem is the up botton how do i fix it? [R]

1 year, 4 months agoAnTi90d posted submission on electronic_cigarette.
June 21, 2018
1 year, 4 months agoAnTi90d posted comment on electronic_cigarette.
June 22, 2018


Here's what the bottle looks like:

I got mine from WalMart in the $6-$8 range.

I'm cleaning up a laptop that had coffee spilt on it, how should I remove the dried coffee from the motherboard? [R]

1 year, 5 months agodragotha posted submission on techsupport.
June 14, 2018

As the title suggests, I'm cleaning up a dell latitude e5540 that had coffee spilled on it at some point. The laptop still boots but all the ports on the left side are filled with dried coffee and there is some on the motherboard as well. How can I clean the dried coffee off without damaging the motherboard?

1 year, 5 months agodragotha posted comment on techsupport.
June 14, 2018

I've used an electronic spray cleaner that is safe for plastic to clean up countless messes (soot from fires, pop, coffee, etc). That with compressed air seems to do the trick. Note - you can get electronic spray cleaner from your local auto parts store as well. Just be sure to get the one safe for plastic. Q-tips with rubbing alcohol can also work for hard to reach places.

You can use distilled water as well. The water won't damage your electronics - it is always the residue that is the issue.

The key is - make ABSOLUTELY SURE the motherboard is dry before powering it.

Arp9 motor overheating [R]

1 year, 5 months agoartist508 posted submission on airsoft.
June 3, 2018

Did I goof putting an 11.1 Lipo into my stock Arp9? On semiauto my grip was getting so hot I'm pretty sure it would have burned my hand if I wasn't wearing gloves. Should I just upgrade the motor or downgrade to a 7.4 Lipo?

1 year, 5 months agoartist508 posted comment on airsoft.
June 3, 2018

Depending on how much you ran is with the 11.1v, you might want to take the motor out and spray the carbon out with plastic safe contact cleaner, you can find it at autoparts stores, walmart, hardware stores, etc.

Spilled power steering fluid all over my Makita impact driver. [R]

1 year, 6 months agodarealmvp1 posted submission on Tools.
May 9, 2018

How should I clean it up? I assume there is a ton of PS fluid in the casing.

1 year, 6 months agodarealmvp1 posted comment on Tools.
May 9, 2018

Jesus, NO!. The guy said electrical parts cleaner not alcohol. Buy this crap, take your drill apart and douse all the oil off with this shit.

Cat spilled orange soda on my controller. Any good guides to clean the sticky? [R]

1 year, 6 months agoElgand posted submission on PS4.
April 19, 2018

My cat is a dick that likes to knock glasses over. Okay he mainly try’s to drink the drinks but his face gets stuck so it tips. I had orange soda and now I have a controller that has a sticky trigger. Any good tips?

Here’s a picture of said asshole, Mikko. He’s still under one...I like dogs. Why do I have a cat?

1 year, 6 months agoElgand posted comment on PS4.
April 19, 2018

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

TIFU by dissolving all of my keys [R]

1 year, 6 months agoWardenWolf posted submission on tifu.
April 18, 2018

After giving my room a quick tidy after the previous night's activities, the sun shone through my windows and onto my mechanical keyboard. "Ew" I said. My keyboard was major grody. Goo. Hair. Mysterious stains. I resolved to action.

After considering my plan, I popped off all of the key caps and tossed them into a Tupperware container. Now what to clean them with.. hand soap? Dish soap? Keyboard soap which probably exists? "I know!" I exclaimed exuberantly. I'll just use the stuff I clean my glass (tobacco use only).

Here's the fuck up. The substance I use is called acetone. It's great for removing sticky substances from glass. It's pretty bad at removing grime from key caps. Bad in the sense that within minutes, the acetone was jet black. I opened the container and poured out the acetone. What was left was a disgusting pile of melted fibrous plastic in a black acetone jus. Imagine this but the faces are key caps and Maisie Williams is me.

Moral of the story: learn basic chemistry. Also test it on one key first. Like the windows key.

TL;DR Poured explosive chemical on some keys and ended up with black tar heroin.

1 year, 6 months agoWardenWolf posted comment on tifu.
April 19, 2018

Good news is that you can buy replacement keycaps if you have Cherry switches. Just Google it.

Oh wait, you can't. Hahahahaha. ;-)

But seriously, use this stuff. It's plastic-safe and also a great degreaser:

Demons Spilled Oil On My Taser and Now It Won't Work [R]

1 year, 7 months agoApril 13, 2018


1 year, 7 months agoSergeantTibbs posted comment on AskElectronics.
April 13, 2018

Get a can of this.

Or get the WD-40 Contact Cleaner. Either will work.

Take good pictures of all sides of the stun gun. You’ll use these to reassemble it.

Remove the batteries. Hold down the stun button for a full minute.

Remove all the screws from the stun gun and gently open it up. Don’t worry, it’s not powered, anything in here is safe to touch.

If you can see both sides of the green circuit board, spray them down with the contact cleaner.

If you can’t see both sides of the circuit board, take more detailed photos of the inside of the stun gun. Note where the screws are, and especially where wires go through the case. Remove any screws from the board and set them aside in a different place from the other screws. You don’t want to mix them up.

Pull the board up just enough to see both sides and spray it down. Be generous with the cleaner. Let it drip off the board onto some paper towels. The oil will be carried off along with the cleaner.

Air out the room when you’re doing this, or do it in a garage.

Put the board back in place and wait at least a few hours for the cleaner to evaporate.

Reassemble the board and case, putting each screw back in the reverse order you took them out. Pay close attention to any wires, and make sure they’re going through the case the same way.

Put batteries in and test. If it sparks you’re good.

And then throw it away and get quality pepper spray you can carry and use easily. A stun gun only irritates and it only works as long as you’re there actually pressing the button. What you want is something you can quickly use, throw away, and then run. The pepper spray will take a moment to really kick in, but it’ll pain and blind your attacker for a while, and make it hard for them to chase you.

So I think my motor just died... anything I can do? [R]

1 year, 7 months agoartist508 posted submission on airsoft.
April 9, 2018

Had a lonex A2 high torque motor, worked great, for about 2 sessions. Then after a short burst it just stopped, when i plug it in a pull the trigger it does nothing, no noise or anything. Anything I can do to fix it or what might be the problem, or maybe a recommendation for a good motor, I thought I heard that lonex motors were good or am I mistaken?

1 year, 7 months agoartist508 posted comment on airsoft.
April 9, 2018

I'd give it a blast of plastic safe electonic cleaner and if that doesn't work it's probably a dead armature.

Harley vomited oil on me!!! [R]

1 year, 8 months agoThe_Friskies posted submission on Harley.
March 14, 2018

Bikes been sitting for a bit so I gave it a once over before taking it out today. Oil looked low.

So I added a couple quarts, level looked good, gave it a crank, fired up like a champ, but I could hear a hissing sound, oil tank.

The second I touched the cap, it flew off and spewed oil all over me, face, eyes, mouth, I was wearing a new hoodie. Left a nice silhouette of my on the side of my car....

So yeah, I guess the oil had just settled in the crank case so the oil tank appeared low, I was scared to crank it and check warm incase it seized, I figured topping it off couldn't hurt. But hey, I know I have good oil pressure.

1 year, 8 months agoThe_Friskies posted comment on Harley.
March 14, 2018

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

how do i clean juice in/on the flatband wire from digitizer to PCB of the MINIKIN V2 ? [R]

1 year, 8 months ago_BEER_ posted submission on electronic_cigarette.
Feb. 22, 2018

so I had a minikin v2 for months now. recently the touch screen seem to be buggy and now it got worse. Now I can't even unlock the screen by swiping. I noticed that the upper half of the screen does not work normally and it act like when I rapidly touch on the screen. by some quick search I think it because there juice on the flatband. Has anyone experienced this on a minikin ? and how do you fix it ? what should I use and how to clean the juice out ?

1 year, 8 months ago_BEER_ posted comment on electronic_cigarette.
Feb. 22, 2018

Tesla Invader 3 fire button problems [R]

1 year, 8 months agoAnTi90d posted submission on electronic_cigarette.
Feb. 20, 2018

So, my invader 3 started doing a thing tonight. I fired it, took a hit and let off the button, but it kept firing. I tested it another time with the atomizer off, and same result, it acted like I was holding the button down. I cleaned around the button, got some gunk off, and it doesn't fire consistently, and when it does, it just stays stuck. The rubber insulator between the button and the board is still there and fine as far as I can tell. Is there anything I can do? or does this sound like the button is fucked?

1 year, 8 months agoAnTi90d posted comment on electronic_cigarette.
Feb. 20, 2018

It sounds like juice or some other form of grime has gotten behind your firing button.

You may be able to clean it out of there with rubbing alcohol or quick dry aerosol electronics cleaner.

Make sure you remove your batteries and leave them out until its dry, then spray some cleaner behind the button and work it around. I personally would go with the aerosol, as isopropyl alcohol will dissolve some plastics.

Amazon has it, your local hardware store might, too. There are many brands, but I think this is the most popular one:

2013 Fusion Backup Camera Malfunctioning - Error Codes B115E & C1001 - Help, please! [R]

1 year, 9 months agoyoyomah20 posted submission on fordfusion.
Feb. 6, 2018

Just when I think I have all of my car's issues in check 😒... lately my backup camera has only been working about 30% of the time... am I in for a full replacement, even though it still works some of the time? I'm getting the "Backup Camera Unavailable - Please See Your Dealer" or something to that effect.

From what I've read, it can be about an $800 job 😓 at the dealership, whereas I can get the part for $125-300, and do it myself...

Does anybody out there have directions they can share on how to disassemble the camera enclosure to check connections, or replace camera if needed? I've tried the google with no luck.

I appreciate any help I can get.

1 year, 9 months agoyoyomah20 posted comment on fordfusion.
Feb. 7, 2018

to get to the camera you need to remove the lining on the inside of the trunk (the tailgate, movable piece). You have to remove both tail lights attached to the movable piece of trunk (3 11mm bolts each), then remove the long piece of body that stretches between the tail lights under the ford logo. This is held in by 4 10mm bolts that can be seen through the little openings in the metal (you'll know what I am talking about once you get this far). Then you can pull on the long piece of bodywork that the camera and trunk release button are attached to. Then you should have access to the camera. If its working about 30% of the time, it could be a loose or dirty connector. I'd pick up some electronics cleaner (such as this) at walmart and spray the connections and see if that helps. Good luck!

I just inherited a ch products fs yoke: Just a few questions if you guys don't mind. [R]

1 year, 10 months agoPerk_i posted submission on flightsim.
Jan. 15, 2018

I got a rudder and fs yoke kit a few days ago. The rudder itself is alright, but the yoke seems to get stuck during pitch down and pitch up movements. I've disassembled the yoke and inspected the rings inside that retains the yoke and I've found them to be too tight, so I sanded the two to the rear (refraining from touching the one that influences roll) to reduce material and apply silicon oil, it's doing fine at the moment.

What I'm concerned about is the throttle. To owners of the FS Yoke, does the throttle have an actual lag to it? I.e. pushing the throttle lever forward provides input, but at a very slow rate. I've looked at the connections inside (they all seem to be solder-less) and couldn't quite find anything wrong. The prop and mixture levers seem to be working right as they are able to work without the kind of lag the throttle has.

I wanted to know if there is anything wrong with this unit or if these "issues" are par for the course for this example. I couldn't find anything on forums that talk about the same issues I've been having.

Thanks in advance!

1 year, 10 months agoPerk_i posted comment on flightsim.
Jan. 16, 2018

I've cleaned potentiometers out quite a few times, but not specifically the ones for the throttle on a CH yoke. My old CH rudder pedals used to need a reworking every couple of years - clean the pots and resolder the leads to the brake pedals that would invariably get pinched or stretched.

For the pots you don't want to use oil, you want to use a mild solvent to get rid of any crud that's built up between the metallic contact ring and the carbon resistance ring on the base plate. I use contact cleaner, but I'd imagine Hoppes #9 solvent should have about the same effect.

It could also be something else too, or it could be that the carbon disc or contacts in the pot are too worn out to be fixed. If you want to test whether it's the pot before disassembling, hook a multimeter up to the middle contact and either of the outside contacts. Put the meter in resistance mode and move the lever back and forth. If the pot is good, there will be a smooth resistance gradient both ways. If the pot is bad, the resistance will jump around as the lever travels, skip, etc. This may be easier to see on an analog meter. The actual values don't matter as much as a smooth transition and no spiking (variances in overall resistance are expected from pot to pot and will change with wear - that's why you have to calibrate analog joysticks frequently).

Which Av cable do I need for my genesis? [R]

1 year, 11 months agoAzathothCultist posted submission on retrogaming.
Dec. 3, 2017
1 year, 11 months agoAzathothCultist posted comment on retrogaming.
Dec. 3, 2017

If you get a black screen it could also just be a dirty cartridge slot. Mine did this at one time and I bought some electronic cleaner, sprayed in the slot and it worked fine after that. Could also be a bad cart if you haven't tried multiple games. This is what I used and it worked fine afterwards.

My wife was trying to blow the crumbs off her keyboard with canned air. It was actually WD-40 [R]

1 year, 11 months agoNov. 24, 2017


1 year, 11 months agonmrk posted comment on funny.
Nov. 25, 2017

I always keep a spray can of Contact Cleaner in case of keyboard accidents. This will solve (and dissolve) your problem.

I recently spilled a cup of coffee (with sugar) into my brand new Magic Keyboard. Oops. I sprayed contact cleaner into it immediately and forced all the coffee out. I sprayed the solution under all the keys, then tapped it keys-down onto paper towels until the solution came out clear instead of brown. My keyboard came out perfectly fine (I'm typing on it now). Accidents like this, with sugar in the coffee, usually cause permanent damage. But not if you're well prepared.

Warning: I suggest you do not buy this brand, which will only cause further confusion.

Help please, old trains won’t run. (N Gauge) [R]

1 year, 11 months agoMrBlankenshipESQ posted submission on modeltrains.
Nov. 21, 2017

Hi guys, i haven’t had a chance to get our train set out for a couple of years and now that we’ve set up a basic loop we can’t get it to run. Im wondering if the trains (5 different locos, all graham farish) aren’t running because they’ve been in storage so long, is there something I should be doing to run them in? The track has all been in zip-lock bags, so I’m guessing that is okay? We have broken the loop into a small section of 3 pieces of track but still no luck.

It’s a DCC system (digitrax Zephyr Xtra), and one of the DC trains we have makes the buzzing sound it used to, and as we dial up the speed it just cuts off the buzzing and barely moves a few mm. If we push it gently it moves in tiny bursts.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

1 year, 11 months agoMrBlankenshipESQ posted comment on modeltrains.
Nov. 21, 2017

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

Help with jeep 4.0 automatic transmission “bucking” problem. [R]

2 years agoamd_kenobi posted submission on CherokeeXJ.
Oct. 23, 2017

Hi guys. I usually own xjs, but I currently have a grand Cherokee with a 4.0 and a 4x4 4 speed transmission. It’s a 2004.

There is an issue where about 5% of the time the Car bucks, almost like a misfire but not quite, when in drive and accelerating. Sometimes stalling out when in drive at a red light stopped.

This seems to never happen in reverse, just drive.

Symptoms: RPMs drop briefly when it happens as if the car just dies for .5 seconds then comes back to life. It can repeat itself sometimes for up to about 10 seconds. Making it feel like it’s bucking.

Have not been able to replicate it in reserve

No check engine light

Almost feels like it’s going into neutral and slamming back into drive. (I assume RPMs would spike not drop if this where the case)

Replaced tps, and iacv

Any ideas?

I have heard, o2 sensor, fuel pump, plugs/wires/coils

Anyone in the South Bay Area of California willing to swap over parts to diagnose possibly? Would pay for your time.


Side note: the jeep seems underpowered. It may just be in my head. It’s been a while since I have owned a jeep with normal size tires, but when I push it, it just seems lacking I. Power. Related?

2 years agoamd_kenobi posted comment on CherokeeXJ.
Oct. 23, 2017

I had the same problem with my 4.0 powered 97 Grand. Try cleaning the plugs that connect to the computer with some electronics cleaner, smear some dielectric grease on them and then ziptie the fuckers down like this.

Those plugs don't seal against moisture very well and can corrode or just not make proper contact. The dielectric grease keeps the connections corrosion free and the zip ties make sure that the plugs stay tight against the seals and stay connected.

If that doesn't work check your engine coolant sensor or your throttle position sensor. Worst case you may need a new ecu/pcm (computer).

No sound when eq is set flat? [R]

2 years, 1 month agorumphy posted submission on Bass.
Oct. 13, 2017

Hey guys I recently got back into playing and picked up an active bass. I noticed today (not sure if this was the case before) that when I set the double stacked bass/treble nob flat (middle notch, no?) then I suddenly get no sound whatsoever from my amp. If I move either nob out of the notch even slightly, boosting or cutting, everything is fine and sound comes out normally.

Is there an issue with the bass? Is this normal? Should I try something else? Thanks.

2 years, 1 month agorumphy posted comment on Bass.
Oct. 13, 2017

Most likely just some schmoo stuck in the contacts there. Since you probably leave it at flat most of the time (or did for an extended period) there's probably a bit of corrosion going on there and it's not making contact.

Step 1 (optional): Spray some electronics cleaner in there.

Step 2: Put the side of your hand against the knob and move it back and forth quickly for as many times as you can.

It'll come out eventually just by moving the knob around a bunch, but some electronics cleaner makes it happen much sooner.

Shouldn't have used Brasso [R]

2 years, 1 month agoOct. 12, 2017


2 years, 1 month agoJoeiJoeJoe posted comment on nes.
Oct. 12, 2017

I use Brasso for when the connectors look really, really dunked in chocolate pudding grimy.

Otherwise I use 99% alcohol with q-tips. If that doesn't work, I open up the cart and scrub with a white eraser and this stuff

My local game shop loves to clean with Brasso. Let me tell you...every cart I've purchased from them has brasso residue on it.

What are good, practical, reliable cars that have gone under the radar? Cars that don't hold their value but are good daily drivers. [R]

2 years, 1 month agoamd_kenobi posted submission on Cartalk.
Oct. 11, 2017

I need a cheap and low maintenance daily driver. Nothing fancy. Just something to get me from point A to B with decent gas mileage. I know Honda and Toyota make solid machines but the price always reflects that. I run my cars into the ground so I don't care about resale value. I just retired a 1994 neon that ended up being pretty low cost in the long run. I even got $1500 using california's "cash for clunkers". What should I replace it with?

2 years, 1 month agoamd_kenobi posted comment on Cartalk.
Oct. 11, 2017

Oh, you mean a Grand Cherokee. I had a similar problem with my 97 Grand. Try cleaning the plugs that connect to the computer with some electronics cleaner, smear some dielectric grease on them and then ziptie the fuckers down like this.

Those plugs don't seal against moisture very well because the engineers said; "plastic clips, that'll hold better than the ol' bolt through the middle design AMC used." The dielectric grease keeps the connections corrosion free and the zip ties make sure that the plugs stay tight against the seals and stay connected.

Behringer DDM4000 DJ mixer channel crackling when I adjust volume? [R]

2 years, 1 month agotroubleondemand posted submission on audio.
Sept. 29, 2017

Anyone know what I can do to try to fix this or is it better to leave it to a professional? It sometimes happens even without touching the volume knob which is really harsh on the ears when I'm trying to mix.

2 years, 1 month agotroubleondemand posted on audio.
Sept. 29, 2017

Alert Slider Fried on OP3 - Stuck On Silent [R]

2 years, 1 month agoSept. 17, 2017


2 years, 1 month agoHalifaxSamuels posted on oneplus.
Sept. 18, 2017

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

[PSA] OnePlus 5 cannot take a dunk in the washing machine :/ [R]

2 years, 2 months agoHalifaxSamuels posted submission on oneplus.
Sept. 9, 2017

My girlfriend was doing the laundry and didn't notice my phone in one of the pants pockets and just tossed it in. 10 minutes later I was going to go charge my phone but couldn't find it anywhere only to realize it was in the washer.


Took it out immediately powered it off and tossed it in the bag of rice and let it sit over night. Now, it's giving me random restarts and the speaker sounds like ass. However, it's super clean now!


TLDR: Don't be an idiot like me and toss your OP5 into the washing machine :)

2 years, 2 months agoHalifaxSamuels posted on oneplus.
Sept. 10, 2017

I'd take it apart and let it sit in a sealed container with rice or a desiccant for another day or two. Only after that then I'd carefully clean any pieces of rice out of it, reassemble it, and try turning it back on again.

You shouldn't need to break it down piece-by-piece, just open it to allow the moisture to be absorbed by something else. Be careful not to damage any of the ribbon cables, though. You might want to pop the battery connector out and disconnect just enough to separate the screen and the rest of the phone.

For something like a keyboard, sitting overnight in rice might be fine. It's really hard for the moisture to all work its way out of something sealed like a phone. Not sure if anyone would recommend removing the battery, giving the whole phone a good rinse in something like isopropyl alcohol, distilled or deionized water, or some good electronic contact cleaner. The soap residue is what I'd be worried about if the phone functions after it dries.

If you're going to try to fix it DEFINITELY DO NOT CHARGE IT until you're quite sure it's working well.

Remove IPD adjustment overlay? [R]

2 years, 3 months agoItsNotMeTrustMe posted submission on Vive.
July 31, 2017

this has been bothering me for some time now, the actual IPD adjustment knob works fine, and i already have it set to a comfortable distance, but sometimes the steam IPD adjustment overlay appears out of nowhere and the numbers onscreen change rapidly and randomly, then it stops changing and sticks to one number, and then it just goes away. Ive tried reinstalling SteamVR (and Steam itself) but the issue still persists, so im fairly confident its most likely a hardware issue. I do not want to RMA it or try to repair it myself because of all the hassle it might cause, and i never really change the IPD anyways, so is there a way to disable the overlay altogether?

EDIT: just to clarify, my actual IPD doesnt change, just the display inVR, thats why im looking to get rid of it because its inaccurate and distracting

EDIT2: i dug in through the files and found an IPD .somethingweird file and i deleted that, no more IPD adjustment popup! i didnt need it anyway bc i never change the IPD

2 years, 3 months agoItsNotMeTrustMe posted on Vive.
July 31, 2017

This kind of thing:

I don't know about that particular brand. That's just the first one that came up when I googled. Should be fine, though. I imagine it'll still void your warranty much like opening it up would. But you'll probably fix it in seconds instead of months...

That's a video of a guy cleaning knobs on a guitar amp. But cleaning a knob is a cleaning a knob, so it should explain what I'm talking about. I haven't watched it though, so it might be boring.

[PSA] Vaping near your computer Seems Fine [R]

2 years, 4 months agotralce posted submission on electronic_cigarette.
June 26, 2017

I quit smoking about 7 months ago, still vaping and still quitting. My desktop rig is on 24-7. I spend probably 8-10 hours a day next to my desktop 5-6 days a week. Sometimes more and it sits literally 2 feet from where I blow. It's also in my living room to the left of my TV where I sit on the couch and vape all the time. To the right of the TV is a fireplace that does have ash in it as well, add in the carpet floors and a 100lb dog, there's gonna be dust, simple as that. I have a couple friends that occasionally come over and vape as well. The intake is in the front so I know clouds are going in for sure. My desktop does have dust filters but fine dust still gets in there.

After a month of vaping I did my usual cleaning after searching and seeing some stories of people having build up of what seemed like juice. Perfectly fine then and I had a very thin layer of fine dust in some places. No sign or film of juice or stickiness, just the usual.

Fast forward 6 months, I cleaned my rig today and no difference. A little more build up of dust than usual but my lazy ass took 6 months this time when I usually clean every 3-4 months. I wiped my fan blades and cpu cooler fans and no stickiness or signs of juice. Looked at my motherboard and all good.

You should keep your computer clean and dust free to begin with. If not, your computer is probably running inefficiently and will die prematurely anyways. My belief is that vape condensation could build up and attach itself to dust if the dust has accumulated enough. Probably going through ~20ml give or take right next to my computer and no issues. Just do regular maintenance on your computer as you normally and should do.

2 years, 4 months agotralce posted on electronic_cigarette.
June 27, 2017

I can weigh in. My girlfriend and I have almost exactly the same home-built PCs. Mine is below my desk, and hers is on her desk. We both vape at our desks.

One day her computer stopped reacting at all when the power button was pressed, just like if it was unplugged. I busted out my power supply tester and multimeter and it tested fine. After quite a bit of troubleshooting I discovered that the area of the board with the north bridge and power control circuit, along with the bottoms of the RAM slots, and the entire back of the GPU, were coated in VG.

I should mention, I suppose, that we both almost exclusively vape my DIY ("Creamy Nuts") which is 3mg max VG with a little TFA bavarian cream and TFA hazelnut praline, no sweetener.

I pulled the mobo and GPU out of the computer, ran to the local auto parts store, and bought a can of CRC electronics cleaner which I used in conjunction with an air compressor and Q-tips to blow/scrape most of the VG residue off the boards.

The machine is working fine now but the whole cleaning process took several hours. When I got to trying to figure out exactly how it happened, I realized that she does have a higher-than-normal-flow 120MM intake fan in the lower front of the case, and everything that had residue on it was in direct line with this fan. This build up happened over the course of about 9 months.

PLEASE be aware of where you are exhaling, when you're around electronics! After this incident I checked my desktop and my server and they are both fine. This happened just because of a crappy combination of factors, but it can absolutely happen to anybody.

Two years ago I bought this 1961 Buick LeSabre from my great grandpa for $1. Took it on it's first drive in 23 years today. [R]

2 years, 4 months ago_thirdeyeopener_ posted submission on projectcar.
June 23, 2017
2 years, 4 months ago_thirdeyeopener_ posted on projectcar.
June 24, 2017

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

Supposed to be clear skies and 80 highs today, so I left my sunroof open :/ what damage can I expect? Details in post [R]

2 years, 5 months agoUMDSmith posted submission on FordFocus.
June 13, 2017
2 years, 5 months agoUMDSmith posted on FordFocus.
June 14, 2017

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there.

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned:

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

When other cleaning methods fail: Brass Polish [R]

2 years, 6 months agoMay 8, 2017


2 years, 6 months agoNESCollecta posted on nes.
May 8, 2017

I don't like using Brasso unless it's my last option. It definitely can leave a residue.

Pop open the cart and clean the contacts with fast evaporating contact cleaner. Set the PCB on a spongy mousepad and use a high polymer white eraser to loosen up the gunk.

[NPD] My pops sent me some of his old pedals that haven't been touched in quite some time [R]

2 years, 8 months agoMarch 2, 2017


2 years, 8 months agopoprhythm posted on guitarpedals.
March 3, 2017

Here it is for $10 on amazon.

Trigger squeaking? *Fix* [R]

2 years, 8 months agoNaail posted submission on xboxone.
Feb. 20, 2017

Does someone consider a controller broken if the trigger squeaks? My old controllers used to do it in both triggers, now my brand new elite controller is doing it as well.

Any tips to get this to subside?

2 years, 8 months agoNaail posted on xboxone.
Feb. 20, 2017

I used to have one of electronic cleaners to fix my old sega dreamcast gamepads :D, if it persists or anything worse happens ,I'll probably use them again.

HWatch button stuck, keeps rebooting [R]

3 years agoHalifaxSamuels posted submission on AndroidWear.
Nov. 7, 2016

Hi, a yesterday I took a shower with my watch, put it on my desk and went on to watch TV. A while later I started hearing the watch vibrating, it kept doing so dozens of times.

The watch would show the Huawei logo, go on to start the boot sequence, and then back to the Huawei logo.

At first I thought it was a software issue, but then the battery started running low, and it would just start displaying the low battery icon every couple of seconds.

Which makes me believe the button somehow got stuck.

I think it has something to do with soap, but I already took multiple showers with the watch, and it turned out fine.

Anyone knows what can be done about this? I tried setting it in rice to dry, tried mashing the button until it would get loose, tried holding the button strongly, and tried pulling on it, to make it loose.

3 years agoHalifaxSamuels posted on AndroidWear.
Nov. 9, 2016

Maybe try to work a little electric cleaner in there? That stuff is magic and saved a few of my devices. I used some a few days ago one one of my keyboard keys (Cherry MX switches) that was sticking. Just squirted a small bit in and cycled the key about a hundred times to make sure it worked out the gunk.

Break cleaner for computer parts [R]

3 years agoahenkel posted submission on pcmasterrace.
Nov. 7, 2016

Hi I'm just curious can you use break cleaner as computer part cleaner Brian from tech city does it but is it safe Thanks *EDIT I'm not gonna do it but I'm curious

3 years agoahenkel posted on pcmasterrace.
Nov. 7, 2016

Just use electronic contact cleaner

Edit: It is probably not necessary to use this for slightly dusty components. We're talking horror show dirty.

Macintosh 128k vertical lines - any idea what would cause this? [R]

3 years agoMalevolentBird posted submission on VintageApple.
Oct. 16, 2016
3 years agoMalevolentBird posted on VintageApple.
Oct. 17, 2016

Fixed quite a lot of issues like this and others on Mac's pc,s tv,s etc by just using electronic contact cleaners/sprays like this for example:

Fast Charging not working since 6.0.1 update [R]

3 years, 2 months agoboosterpackpack posted submission on GalaxyS6.
Sept. 7, 2016

Ever since the 6.0.1 update, Fast Charging is no longer working and takes 6+ hours to charge my s6 and it drains faster than it charges if being used while charging, even if is only a simple "hot spot on" so my wife can play Pokémon Go on my old s4. When plugged in, it says " Charging " not, " Fast Charging ".

Every time I plug in my phone with the original charger , I get a message, " To charge faster, use the original charger. " But I AM using the original charger and it IS the Adaptive Fast Charging Charger that came with the s6! The charger is in excellent condition. And can quickly charge almost anything else, but my s6 WILL NOT Fast Charge since the 6.0.1 update.

Anybody else have this since the update? Anybody figured it out and fixed it?

3 years, 2 months agoboosterpackpack posted on GalaxyS6.
Sept. 8, 2016

CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz.

I use that stuff but anything you find that's safe on plastic is also fine.

Turbografx controller issues [R]

3 years, 2 months agojjennings089 posted submission on consolerepair.
Aug. 25, 2016

My Turbografx is having an issue where when I first try to play a game, the controller doesn't work correctly. Some of the buttons/directions won't function until I remove and reseat the controller cord, sometimes have to wiggle it a little. It will then work correctly until I come back hours later and play again, and I will have to do the same thing. I tried cleaning with rubbing alcohol and a q tip, but I really think I might need to scrub the connection with something better. Any thoughts?

3 years, 2 months agojjennings089 posted on consolerepair.
Aug. 25, 2016

CRC cleaner can be found at the auto store or amazon.

[Techsupport] Spilled 7up on my motherboard. So far I have doused it in isopropyl what next [R]

3 years, 2 months agoahenkel posted submission on pcmasterrace.
Aug. 23, 2016

I'm worried it's in the bathtub drying. I've taken out the CMOS and covered it in isopropyl should I let it dry or do anything else

3 years, 2 months agoahenkel posted on pcmasterrace.
Aug. 23, 2016

Everyone that builds computers or works with electronics should have contact cleaner.

Would you worry about these bearings?(video) [R]

3 years, 5 months agoshort_lurker posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 4, 2016
3 years, 5 months agoshort_lurker posted on 3Dprinting.
June 5, 2016

I had the same issue with one of the linear bearings for my Folger 2020 too. Just like you I had put some oil and grease to try to help it, but it didn't work. I started over and wash it all out with some electric parts cleaner spray and blew it dry with light compressed air (get the QD for plastic safe) and that improved it.

Also try orientating it so the lines of bearing balls sit at 45 degree angles on the smooth rod like in the left example of the first attached picture in this post. I did this for my x and y axis. For z I just lined up both bearings. it really helped.

Water damage any possible chance to save? [R]

3 years, 6 months agoTissue285 posted submission on buildapc.
May 1, 2016

Brother left my window open during a snowstorm, and I came home to my tower soaked. I've dumped it, let it dry, still afraid to turn it on any advice?

3 years, 6 months agoTissue285 posted on buildapc.
May 1, 2016

Was it plugged into the wall? Even when "off" there is usually power still going through the motherboard...

i would remove every component from the case and completely dissemble it. Then I would go to an auto parts store and buy some CRC Electronic cleaner and spray everything down good. Don't focus on one area for too long as it will get cold FAST with this stuff. Then reassemble and give it a try.

Cleaning XLR Cables [R]

3 years, 7 months agokillapimp posted submission on livesound.
April 6, 2016

So I work in a college gear rental house, and our main supply of XLR cables are really dirty and need some cleaning. I'm wondering what suggestions/methods/cleaning products are popular/effective to clean cables. Or if there's a magic cable cleaning machine I failed to find online. Thanks!

3 years, 7 months agokillapimp posted on livesound.
April 6, 2016

Clean the connectors with electrical connection cleaner. Just give each end a really good squirt. It's basically just ether, so you have to be 18 to buy it at Walmart.

Any tips on how to safely clean an xt60 connector? [R]

3 years, 8 months agoRDort posted submission on Multicopter.
March 14, 2016
3 years, 8 months agoRDort posted on Multicopter.
March 14, 2016

Contact cleaner i wouldn't put alcohol water or anything remotely conductive on it.

Nexus 7 2013 slow wireless charging?? [R]

4 years agoOct. 17, 2015


4 years agonuxxor posted on Nexus7.
Oct. 17, 2015

Try some contact cleaner in the port, I had a couple devices that stopped charged or would charge intermittent and contact cleaner fixed it.

Tips for removing old thermal paste? [R]

4 years, 1 month agoSept. 28, 2015

I mean this stuff is really stuck on. I'm scraping as much as I can and using 91% rubbing alcohol and making no progress here.

4 years, 1 month agogamegurus posted on techsupport.
Sept. 28, 2015 it will melt off, can get this at any auto store

My snow wolf won't turn on :c [R]

4 years, 1 month agoIllBeYourSnackPack posted submission on Vaping.
Sept. 20, 2015

I think it got juice on one of the boards, right now I have it sitting open with some cotton inside it (with no batteries installed) hopefully it dries out. Anybody else ever had this happen?

fortunately I have my old 30W shark.

4 years, 1 month agoIllBeYourSnackPack posted on Vaping.
Sept. 20, 2015

Go to an auto parts store and buy a can of spray electronics cleaner. There are two different ones, one for switches and things, and one for alternator and starter. Get the one for switches.

PLEASE HELP! I got a thermal paste in my lga 1150 motherboard socket! Is it possible to remove it? [R]

4 years, 2 months agoTheMuffnMan posted submission on buildapc.
Sept. 9, 2015

So I had this cheap cooler master thermal paste that fucking spilled all over my cpu, it was like water! Now I managed to save the most of my socket from that shitty product, but some parts have thermal paste over them, can I clean it? Like how do you get underneath the pins?

EDIT: The paste is non-conductive!

EDIT 2: apparently I only have to clean top of the pins where cpu connects, thanks guys :)

EDIT 3: The picture of the incident if it helps

4 years, 2 months agoTheMuffnMan posted on buildapc.
Sept. 9, 2015

Would absolutely love for you to link me to this "compressed isopropyl".

Electronics Cleaner like this is not compressed isopropyl alcohol.

Here's the MSDS Sheet of a similar spray, QD Electronic Cleaner, it does contain "methanol" which is obviously an alcohol derivative, but it's not isopropyl, lol.

Unless you've got some crazy cleaner, /u/xomm was correct to question.

PLEASE HELP! I got a thermal paste in my lga 1150 motherboard socket! Is it possible to remove it? [R]

4 years, 2 months agophobos2deimos posted submission on buildapc.
Sept. 9, 2015

So I had this cheap cooler master thermal paste that fucking spilled all over my cpu, it was like water! Now I managed to save the most of my socket from that shitty product, but some parts have thermal paste over them, can I clean it? Like how do you get underneath the pins?

EDIT: The paste is non-conductive!

EDIT 2: apparently I only have to clean top of the pins where cpu connects, thanks guys :)

EDIT 3: The picture of the incident if it helps

4 years, 2 months agophobos2deimos posted on buildapc.
Sept. 9, 2015

Hey guys... there's this stuff called Electronics Cleaner. Works great, quick dry, and can be found at any automotive shop and Wal Mart.

How do you get cigarette smell out? [R]

4 years, 2 months agoGuygan posted submission on DIY.
Sept. 7, 2015

Okay... so not sure if this is the right sub for this...

I got a laptop (less than a year old) gifted to me. It has a terrible smell of cigarettes. I wiped down the exterior and 3 sanitary wipes turned yellow later the outside is good. However the vents are forcing out this putrid ciagrette smoke smell. Can't really spray febreeze in there for obvious reasons. Anything anyone know to do that can help?

4 years, 2 months agoGuygan posted on DIY.
Sept. 7, 2015

If it's a popular model laptop, chances are there are videos on Youtube to show you how to take it apart.

Open it up, and clean everything you can with this:

A lot of the odor will be in the fan assembly. See if you can replace it entirely with a new one. I've done it with my laptop. It's cheap, and not very hard.

That uncomfortable feeling of removing a heat sync. [R]

4 years, 5 months agoHiglac posted submission on techsupportgore.
May 23, 2015

Realistic Robot Leg Make-up [R]

4 years, 5 months agoNakotadinzeo posted submission on pics.
May 20, 2015
4 years, 5 months agoNakotadinzeo posted on pics.
May 20, 2015

She's going in at the wrong angle if she were going to use it to separate one of those metal disks, and there's no fasteners that big.

Moreover, it doesn't look as if anything there were damaged. If anything, she should have a can of contact cleaner, that would make sense as dirty contacts on an android could be 'painful' and there's not really any moving parts to oil.

(Request) help! significant lower volume in one earbud. [R]

4 years, 11 months agoNov. 27, 2014


4 years, 11 months agoTanuki-te posted on howto.
Nov. 27, 2014

You need this: or a similar product.

There are little particles of dust between the male and female parts of the jack, which prevent them from making a good connection on one side, and therefore lowers the volume by increased resistance in the circuit. Just spray a little in the hole occasionally, and wipe the jack. If that doesn't fix it, and it's not a software issue, then you likely have some of the wire strands breaking on one side, which increases resistance on that side and lowers the volume. This usually happens right near the jack where you do the most bending. Sometimes you can fix that by moving the jack up a few inches, but it isn't necessarily easy, and you have to know how to solder wires. An electronics repair shop can do it, but it may not be worth the cost.

first setup, looking for feedback and advice [R]

4 years, 11 months agoGothamCountySheriff posted submission on vinyl.
Nov. 19, 2014

So a couple weeks ago I thought I'd dust off my dad's old record player and see if i couldn't get it working, and a fun project turned into a new hobby very quickly. I pulled out the turntable and found it was a Technics SL-1700 still in great shape. I hooked it up to the Kenwood VR-305 receiver we had lying around and after i connected the 2 Kustom 4-10 speakers was able to produced some scratchy, white-noise sounds. After a bit of googling and asking the right people some questions i discovered that the stylus needed to be replaced. The cartridge is a Shure V 15 type IV so i ordered a replacement stylus and was able to start spinning!

If anyone had any feedback or info about any of these products or how i could improve my setup, i would love to hear it.

I also have a KLH subwoofer that I'm trying to see if i can hook up but cant quite figure it out. it doesnt have any other identification on it other than KLH 19 cm sub so i'm not sure if there is a specific name for it or what year it is or anything. Green light says its good to go, and the receiver has 2 different subwoofer outputs but i'm not exactly sure how to connect it. do i need a Y cable or will a standard RCA cable work? I've been plugging away hoping something would kick but no luck yet.

I also noticed that with a few of the new records i bought that the TT seems to be spinning just a fraction too slowly, even with the speed adjustment knob all the way up. I looked into it and had heard from a few different sources that this may be because the oil inside has gotten gummy over the years and slowed down the RPM. I figured this might be the case since it hasnt been touched it ~15 years and probably hasnt had any real use in the last 25. has anyone had this problem before? it doesnt happen with all of them tho, just a couple.

I'm really excited to start getting into this and building off of what my dad started. It's something I would have loved to do together with him, but i'm sure he'd be happy to know that the torch has been passed!


4 years, 11 months agoGothamCountySheriff posted on vinyl.
Nov. 19, 2014

You might try cleaning the pot for the pitch adjustment with plastic safe electronics cleaner. Caigs DeOxit Red is a great product for that. CRC Electronics cleaner would also work. For reference: (can be found as Hosa Cable Cleaner at music stores like Guitar Center)

Do you know the OHM rating on the Kustom speaker cabs?

Minecraft Mineral Oil-submerged Server (Completed) [R]

5 years, 8 months agoShittyFieldTech posted submission on buildapc.
March 8, 2014

I present to you my Mineral Oil submerged Server PC Aquarium. I made a motherboard tray and lid completely from aluminum angle and Lexan parts, so I can remove the motherboard easily. It's only a 3 gallon tank so I couldn't submerge the PSU but I used extension cables to make it easy to remove the PSU from the motherboard. I added eSATA and SATA extensions to easily add more hard drives externally. The acrylic faceplate was made on my local makerspace laser cutter, it still need edge-lit red LED's. And of course as you notice that redstone ore block, yes it has HDD LED's that flicker with hard drive activity when it's dark.

I call it the Mine(eral) Craft PC

Specs: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPUAMD FX-4100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor$98.98 @ OutletPC
MotherboardGigabyte GA-78LMT-S2P Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard$39.99 @ Microcenter
MemoryCorsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory$92.99 @ Newegg
Power SupplyCooler Master Elite Power 460W ATX Power Supply$34.99 @ TigerDirect
Operating SystemMicrosoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)$134.94 @ OutletPC
OtherZotac GT510 1GB
OtherOCZ Agility 3 60GBPurchased For $50.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.$451.89
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-08 23:05 EST-0500

Of course.. Pics Edit: and now video

5 years, 8 months agoShittyFieldTech posted on buildapc.
March 9, 2014

Use this and all the mineral oil will be gone in no time. network tester smells! [R]

6 years, 5 months agoieatfishes posted submission on hardware.
June 3, 2013

I am the "guy who is good with computers" at work, and since I am an electrical engineering student, I am stuck with maintaining our various networks.

I lent my ethernet tester to a coworker who has good intentions, but lacks some common sense. When he left for work he popped some fish-oil pills in his pocket, I dunno why, saving them for later I guess.

Anyway, later that day I notice a HORRIBLE smell emanating from him, and he says his fish-oil capsules broke in his pocket....the very same pocket that my network tester was in.

So needless to say, my tools absolutely reek of fish oil, to the point where I would consider buying new ones, if they weren't so darned expensive. Any suggestions on removing strange smells from something like this?

I can't exactly dunk this in a bath of febreeze, but I have to do something, the damn thing stinks!!

6 years, 5 months agoieatfishes posted on hardware.
June 3, 2013

They make cleaner specifically for electronics: