Brand: Mountaineers Books Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide Book

Last Updated On Saturday November 9th, 2019
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Brand: Mountaineers Books

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Brand: Mountaineers Books Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide Book

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Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 26 Reviews
  • July 18, 2019 Last Review Date
  • June 21, 2013 First Seen Review Date
  • 3 Reviewed on Subreddits

    climbing (19)
    tradclimbing (6)
    ClimbingPartners (1)

Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

Learning climbing skills and book recommendations [R]

3 months, 3 weeks agoerikb42 posted submission on climbing.
July 18, 2019

I wan't to learn more skills about rock climbing And unfortunately there aren't any places that teach in depth classes around where i live. What would be the best way to learn these skills? And what books would you recommend to learn skills. There have to be some books that teach the reader how to do a variety of things and a variety of concepts. So if you could recommend books that can teach me some of these skills that would be appreciated. I am specifically looking for ways to learn stuff like safety and anchor building. And while i have a decent idea of these topics. I want to learn a lot more about these things(and any related topic).

3 months, 3 weeks agoerikb42 posted comment on climbing.
July 18, 2019

This book is crucial: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

I’ve heard the John Long one is great as well.

Also, definitely get a copy of Freedom of the Hills.

100 lessons learned from a relatively new trad climber [R]

9 months, 2 weeks agoun_poco_lobo posted submission on climbing.
Jan. 29, 2019

Lessons Learned Trad Climbing (First lead on gear- September 2017)

I was talking with a buddy in the gym tonight and he asked me about things I have learned since starting to climb on gear. Thinking about this on the drive home led me to mind-vomit out this list. It's not an organized list. These lessons are my opinions and my opinions alone. Yours may be completely different and my lessons learned will change as I develop more experience. I am not even saying you should follow a single one of these. These are just thoughts that I thought would be fun to share with the community. I honestly can't believe how quickly and easily I could just rattle off 100 things I have learned since getting on the sharp end. I think it just shows how much is out there to experience. I don't think I'll ever have a shortage of goals and as long as I have those goals, this list will just keep getting longer.

  1. Totems are in fact amazing and if I could start over with buying my rack, totems would be the foundation of all my cams
  2. The UMCs by Metolius are fantastic especially for the price. Sizes 0-4 are really where they shine (don’t own a 00), with sizes 5 and 6 being ‘good’ and 7 and 8 being an ‘ok’ cam to pair with a traditional dual-axle stem cam (C4, Dragon, Friend) being the workhorse in those sizes
  3. Adjustable sling length cams don’t give me enough length not put a runner on it unless I'm dealing with vertical crack, then the extension isn’t really needed anyways. I don’t find it a compelling selling point.
  4. Followers never know how to clean adjustable-length cams and you’ll see them coming up with cams swinging by their knees
  5. Don’t mix up bolt-side with sling-side krabs. Krabs can get burrs super fast and can de-sheath ropes Some routes are safer and easier to lead than to top rope interestingly enough
  6. If you’re climbing with someone new to trad climbing, get on them about being efficient and organized as my trad mentor did for me. Enforce clear and efficient communication with your partner before you start up a climb. The payoff is huge.
  7. Radios only work in canyons. I decided even then they’re not worth the trouble. I’ve given up on them.
  8. Hexes are still relevant. I don’t normally bring them but there are a few trade routes I regularly do at my local crag that where I use them extensively and couldn’t imagine anything else fitting better.
  9. If you do not get a response from your belayer when you yell “off belay!” immediately put your second on belay and pull the remaining rope through the belay device. Communicate ahead of time that if your belayer cannot hear you after the rope goes tight and you feel several seriously tugs, count off a minute and start climbing. This has worked well for me the few times I’ve had no comms between climber and belayer.
  10. Memorize what size all of your cams are in their Black Diamond C4 equivalent. It’s what everyone knows and will save you a lot of time and confusion. I just now call my Dragon cams their C4 equivalent for names (eg. I call my #2 Dragon .75)
  11. 90% of fixed cams I’ve come across are Link Cams. Just an interesting observation.
  12. Rope management at belays was a disaster for me for many many leads and then one day it seemed to no long be a problem anymore.
  13. Practice belaying from above at home with an anchor setup on a pull-up bar.
  14. a. Practice lowering an ATC/Reverso in guide mode
  15. b. Practice a 3:1 haul to assist a climber through a crux move
  16. c. Practice rope management
  17. d. Practice different types of anchors
  18. e. Practicing efficiently getting on and off rappel
  19. Having solid pieces is exponentially more important than all the remaining items in SERENE combined
  20. Dynamic equalization never seems to equalize the way you think it will
  21. Rope-drag is the devil. I personally like extending my pieces a lot more than most trad climbers I find. It’s my style I guess.
  22. If anyone gives you crap about how much gear you’re bringing up on a route, just say it’s “training weight” :)
  23. I bring up lots of gear up on routes am onsighting. I try to sew it up. You’ll be really slow at first but the more practice you have the faster you’ll go and the next thing you know you’re cruising.
  24. Practice ascending a rope with slings
  25. An autoblock while rappelling isn’t just a good idea in terms of safety but it’s extremely practical- one for pulling up a good bight of rope to put yourself on rappel without the weight of the rope interfering and two for going hands-free when rappelling to free stuck ropes.
  26. If you need to leave gear, just do it. It hurts but not as much as you dying does I can imagine.
  27. Practice rappelling with your rope slung in ‘saddle bags’. It really saved me a big headache once on a crazy windy day.
  28. Try not to place gear in the middle of a crux. Pull through then place gear. This is a lesson I am still struggling to learn every time I go climbing.
  29. The flat overhand knot is the way to go when combining two ropes of similar diameter
  30. Practice passing the knot while rappelling and belaying
  31. Try not to get in the habit of using the rap rings when building anchors at bolts. I did that once and a party came down the route rappelling and it caused a bit of a hold up.
  32. If you’re stuck behind a party and you’re just not getting a good feeling from them- like you’re just seeing a circus of nonsense up there, just bail and remove yourself from the situation. It’s just not worth it.
  33. After a trip to Colorado where I found every damn crack to be flaring I bought a set of DMM Offset Nuts. Woah. When they fit, they fit like lego pieces. It’s incredible.
  34. I wish I got a 70m rope sooner
  35. Helium and DMM Alpha krabs are almost worth their high price. When they go on sale, buy them.
  36. The FS Mini II krabs were a bad purchase. I have phased almost all of them out. They're just too small.
  37. It's good to play around with different racking styles for your slings. I have used all alpines, all single biners over the shoulder, all in runner-runner and now I do half alpine, half over the shoulder. I'm probably going to change it soon.
  38. When racking 120cm slings, doubling the sling twice and then twisting them up on themselves with one finger and clipping to a krab is the best way I find.
  39. Single coiling a rope is better than double coiling from both ends. It doesn't take that much more time if you can move fast and the rope doesn't need to be flaked.
  40. Bi-pattern ropes are a nice luxury but since I've bought one I haven't felt compelled to pay the premium for another
  41. Sometimes it’s really obvious to link pitches but when seriously debating between linking pitches or not I default to not linking just because I hate rope drag so much.
  42. 8mm dyneema slings sure are nice but even one year of moderate to heavy use they’re showing signs of serious wear. I’ve replaced most of them with 11mm dyneema slings. Metolius and Trango slings have treated me well. Those 8mm Mammut ones are a dream, but are not beefy enough for long-term use and abuse.
  43. At some point I decided the weight of bringing along a grigri for top belaying was worth the weight. They’re just so convenient to use especially when your arms are pumped from the pitch below.
  44. Make time to clean your own pitch of gear, bounce-test and aid your pieces. I learned a lot from placements doing that.
  45. I love slab climbing
  46. I love crack climbing
  47. Belaying two followers on single ropes is a tricep workout unlike anything else. The Gigi is a lifesaver for belaying two followers just be aware of the special way in which the locker must be clipped
  48. C4 Rubber is stupidly sticky. Resole a pair of Mythos with C4 and you have yourself a slab machine.
  49. Mythos will blow out in size after wear and then once again upon a resole
  50. Clove hitching into the anchor is much more efficient and useful than using a PAS. There have been many times I’ve needed to lengthen my clove much further than a PAS would let me.
  51. If your anchor is far back from the edge of a cliff, anchor yourself on a long clove and belay off your harness at the edge of the cliff- so much easier
  52. I don’t seem to get hungry or thirsty when I climb and then at some point I suddenly hit a wall and shutdown. Forcing myself to eat and drink on longer climbs is hard for me but I learned to do it. Carrying a water bladder on my back has helped.
  53. Approach shoes are nice but I would recommend not wearing them for every approach as they wear so much faster than normal light-weight hikers
  54. Protect your second well from pendulums
  55. I liked Luebben’s climbing anchors book more than Long and Gaines’. It’s almost identical info but I really like how Luebben’s book is organized. The other book seems to wander and ramble at times.
  56. [multipitchclimbing.com](multipitchclimbing.com) is a unique resource
  57. Top rope soloing isn’t much fun but I find it a necessary evil
  58. Spending a lot of time at the base of crags placing gear and building gear anchors really paid off
  59. Racking gates out is the only way to go
  60. Once you learn to hand jam, a good hand jam will feel better than a big jug.
  61. A purcell-prusik has been my go-to rappel sling over a PAS for a while now. I love the adjustability
  62. Soft-shell helmets make a huge difference. Ditching my Half-Dome for a Wall Rider has stopped sweat from pouring down my face on leads
  63. I’m glad I bought a second pair of shoes for when one is in for a resole. It seems like every resoler has a huge wait
  64. I have never thought “man, I wish I didn’t get up this early” after a climb. Alpine starts are where it’s at
  65. https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/ is an invaluable resource for the California Climber especially when it comes to climbing history
  66. Accidents In North American Climbing is sobering and informative especially when the accidents occur on routes you’ve done. Read and learn.
  67. The Mountain Project app in offline mode is complete garbage. I now know to manually download all beta I will need for my climbs to my phone beforehand
  68. Buying and subscribing to an InReach was something I have not regretted. It has also put my family more at ease while I’m in the backcountry. I do think I should have bought and InReach Mini though.
  69. For those long alpine approaches Backcountry Navigator is my go-to app for navigation
  70. CalTopo is an insanely powerful tool for mapping out your approaches, climbs and descents.
  71. Soft-shell jackets are magical pieces of gear. They allow breathability yet keep in heat and repel light precipitation
  72. The Patagonia Houdini is ridiculously small and light and cuts the wind like nobody’s business
  73. I carry a 1-L dry bag with a homemade first aid kit on longer multipitch climbs as well as always having it in my crag bag. It has come in handy many times- most of the time not for me but those in and around my party. Andrew Skurka has a good guide to creating an ultralight first aid kit.
  74. I led my first climb on gear only 3 months after my first sport lead and four months after my first time following on gear. Some say that’s too early but I still believe I was ready. Having found a trad mentor surely helped but I really do think you can learn to first climb climbing trad but it takes a type of focus and discipline. I mean before gyms, sport climbing and bouldering, trad climbing was just… climbing, right?
  75. Read a lot. I need to find the rest of my books too.
  76. Watch a lot of YouTube tutorials and practice them at home or at the base of the crag
  77. I have learned there are a lot of Appeal to Authority Fallacies in climbing. Just because someone climbs 5.12 on gear doesn’t make them anymore right than a 5.9 climber.
  78. Depending on the crag grading is a lot more subjective than I originally thought it would be. Grades can swing as much a 3-4 grades which is huge for the beginning leader. Also if a climb is rated 5.9 or 5.9+ and was established before 1970, be warned. It could be anywhere in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.10+ and could be extremely thin in terms of protection without a safety rating attached.
  79. Personally I don’t find “the onsight” as big of a deal when trad climbing compared to sport climbing and bouldering. I like to get as much beta beforehand but I think I’m in the minority. It’s always good not to spray unless asked. I think this all stems from my background in backpacking. I like feeling prepared.
  80. A trad mentor is worth its weight in gold. I realize I am fortunate. All it took for me was a simple post on Mountain Project. My mentor has had many mentees over several decades and even more than he has never asked back to climb. Make a good impression if you find someone who you want to learn from. Here are some of the things my mentor has shared with me that helped me become his go-to partner-
  81. a. Always offer to to the grunt work- set anchors, clean anchors, carry the rope, coil the rope, offer to belay, etc
  82. b. Be proactive with getting gear ready and packed
  83. c. Offer to drive
  84. d. Ask lots of questions at the appropriate times
  85. e. Demonstrate that you have learned a particular skill from your mentor
  86. f. Practice what you’ve learned at home
  87. g. Be an extremely attentive belayer
  88. h. Have an eye for the nuances of climbing- setting directionals, rope management, rope stretch, obstacles, rope positioning (inside flakes, around corners, etc)
  89. i. Clean gear efficiently and be organized
  90. j. Give your leader exactly the type of belay they ask for (apparently this was a huge problem for my mentor. He likes a tight top rope belay and no matter how many times he asked for a tight rope many belayers just don’t do it and he doesn’t climb with them again. The climber is always in charge of their climb)
  91. k. Always do partner checks
  92. l. Communicate clearly and confidently
  93. The velcro on the OR Crack Gloves always comes off. I'm about ready to go back to tape gloves.
  94. Try repeating early climbs after you have some experience under your belt. Some climbs have grown on me and have made me learn to appreciate them more and others have lost their luster.
  95. Belay glasses originally made me sick but I have recently started warming up to them.

  96. My first whipper was my third lead ever. It was stupid and I learned a lot from it- I was at a slabby wall that was all bolted except for one, hardly ever climbed route called Garden O’ Weedin that loops around the left side of the wall. The route follows this mangy, dirty crack and then heads out right on this undercling until it heads back up again to the anchors. I was excited about finishing my first trad lead a few days before and was anxious to plug gear again despite this route being listed as not worth the effort due to amount of gardening required. The crack was actually fairly clean, cleaner than I deserved it to be, however the face itself was completely covered in lichen. There was no evidence of anyone on this route in several seasons at least. As I'm traversing along the underling I set a .75 hex and move on to the upper crack. About a meter to the right and 5 feet above my hex, my feet completely and unexpectedly slipped out from under me on the exfoliating lichen as I whip around left 15 feet onto the face below while letting out an embarrassingly panicked scream. The hex held, my fall was clean and I finished the route with several lessons learned with me-

  97. Deciding on what routes to climb is more involved than just looking at the grade. Rock quality, vegetation, protection opportunities, rope drag, skills on specific types of climbing (jamming, underclings, laybacking, slab, etc), all play into determining whether I should attempt a route.

  98. Practicing placing gear well pays off. The hex I placed cammed nicely in solid rock. When I am done climbing with it, I am going to frame and display that hex.

  99. My previous two leads were with my trad mentor but this climb was with a friend and a couple acquaintances from the gym. Everyone there was a sport climber and luckily the person belaying me knew what he was doing but I definitely blindly trusted him without any verification. I was way too cavalier about who was belaying me. This was a lesson I wouldn’t truly take to heart until I decked in the gym a year later due to a newly certified belayer letting go of the brake strand while I was on lead.

  100. Learning to climb trad is a continuous, never ending process.

Super in depth and easy to watch vid on Climbing Anchors - Going outside for the first time this summer? Watch this [R]

1 year, 5 months agojbnj451 posted submission on climbing.
June 4, 2018
1 year, 5 months agojbnj451 posted comment on climbing.
June 4, 2018

Ahhh, it's all good. We learn things, we try to pass on knowledge... Internet forums aren't always the best means to do this, because usually you have to write a book to include all the nuances of what you're trying to say.

Personally, I like Craig Luebben's book on anchors the best. He has a lot of information in the book, with pictures and stuff, and he has exercises at the end of each chapter to practice the skills in the book. Of course, usually I'd also add finding an experienced mentor to check your knowledge while you're learning this way.

Wondering what gifts to buy your fellow climbers? Stoked about something you just got? Post here! [R]

1 year, 11 months agoZeroCool1 posted submission on climbing.
Dec. 11, 2017

Post your pictures of shiny new gear, questions about what shiny new gear will be most appreciated, and similar types of things here. I'll remove the things not posted here.

Thanks.

1 year, 11 months agoZeroCool1 posted comment on climbing.
Dec. 13, 2017

Depends on what your goals are.

If you're looking to start getting outside, I would recommend this book Rock Climbing Anchors

In conjunction with this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SkCojauHto

Setting up a top-rope in all situations [R]

2 years, 3 months agoseahuston posted submission on climbing.
July 13, 2017

Hello everyone!

Last Saturday I went to climb outside for the third time in my life.
I joined a small university group of climbing enthusiasts, and the outing has been expressively organised to welcome new climbers and expose them to easy TR routes (4a to 6a).

So, we arrive at the crag, and an experienced guy leads and sets up the TR.
As he gets lowered, we discovered he somehow threaded the rope through only one ring, and there were some other issues with the anchor (I don't specifically remember, maybe there was no chain linking the two points, or there was no rappel ring in the middle of the chain). Another experienced member corrected the mistake by re-threading the rope through THREE points. Of course that resulted in extreme rope drag, and he possibly used one of the bolts of the next route, which was being lead.
Again, another guy climbs up and fixes the situation by switching the ropes of the nearby routes, telling us to switch the ropes too.

Then I climb as a second: I reach the anchor, and discover with horror that my rope is completely twisted around the one of the next route (someone else was on TR) AND I was being lowered through a single ring! I had no quickdraws / PAS on me, so I had to wait at the anchor for the nearby climber to bail out.

So... even experienced climbers made a mess: there were lots of discussions at the crag, and nobody agreed on how to safely deal with an anchor which is not "common" (e.g., chain + rappel ring, chain + double carabiner, two bolts with rings). And I won't imagine what could have happened if we did a multi-pitch outing... (aaaaaand this is why I prefer bouldering!)

Is there any comprehensive guide on how to safely build an anchor in all kinds of situations? I guess that even using common sense is not enough.

TL;DR: uncommon TR anchor raises safety issues even among experienced climbers, and a comprehensive guide is needed

2 years, 3 months agoseahuston posted on climbing.
July 13, 2017

Is there a comprehensive guide? Yes there is and it's quite good! https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

I've also found this article to be a good starting point: http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/EarnestAnchors3.pdf

Pictures would help understand your situations but it sounds like you guys weren't actually building anchors but just running the rope through the rings at the top. Which is: 1. A total pain for closed rings 2. Frowned upon in most crags. The rings usually meant for a rappel or lower of the lead climber but not a group of people top roping. It can wear them out faster when you do this. Check with a local on ethics here.

Based on your description it seems like you should have been able to build a simple 2 bolt equalized anchor with cord and four lockers (2x bolts, 2x for the rope).

EDIT: frowned upon in MOST crags

EDIT2: Absiel/Rappelling is apparently only a US Thing so stick to the lower off. The more you know

Quick question on progression for a beginner... [R]

2 years, 6 months agoleslieyes posted submission on climbing.
April 20, 2017

This is going to be one of those questions that is super easy to answer with "everybody is different". But I'm curious how people typically progress through different climbing styles.

About a year ago I went indoor rock climbing for the first time and had a blast but I was out of shape. I wanted to go again but never got around to it until last week and in the past year I've lost about 50lbs and overall am in great shape and I did 100x better without any real learned technique, just figuring things out intuitively like keeping my arms straight to rest, and leaning a hip against the wall to balance.. things like that.

Anyway, as I'm looking to buy my first set of beginner equipment (harness, shoes, ATC, etc.) I'm thinking about setting some goals. Right now I can use the auto-belay and the guy at the counter gave me a quick lesson on belaying (and my girlfriend is somewhat experienced) so I guess my first step is to learn to top-rope inside, and maybe later delve into sport climbing when I feel more comfortable.

My end goal is to be able to TR at one of my favorite places near me in the midwest, Devil's Lake. Doing so is going to require me to be able to build an anchor since there is no hardware bolted into the rock there.

In the end it's just going to be "however long it takes", but in your experience how long did it take you from fresh beginner to being able to top rope outdoors? Thanks for reading!

2 years, 6 months agoleslieyes posted on climbing.
April 21, 2017

This is an excellent book for learning to set TR anchors.

Friday New Climber Thread for January 20, 2017: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

2 years, 9 months agoleslieyes posted submission on climbing.
Jan. 20, 2017

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

Ask away!

2 years, 9 months agoleslieyes posted on climbing.
Jan. 20, 2017

Read this book!

Friday New Climber Thread for July 29, 2016: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

3 years, 3 months ago0bsidian posted submission on climbing.
July 29, 2016

Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried.

In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Dont be discouraged to ask here on the weekend just because it's called "friday" new climber thread. This thread usually sees traffic until at least monday, there's a good chance your question will be answered.

Two examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How to select my first harness?"

If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.

Ask away!

3 years, 3 months ago0bsidian posted on climbing.
July 30, 2016

Climbing Anchors - John Long, Bob Gaines. https://www.amazon.ca/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-John-Long/dp/0762723262

Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide Book - Craig Luebben. https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

Cordelette, sling, or rope for anchor? [R]

3 years, 5 months agoel___mariachi posted submission on tradclimbing.
May 20, 2016

Hey, I'm thinking about getting into trad climbing, so I am currently doing quite a bit of research. I have read a lot of conflicting information regarding anchors. In the case of a multipitch route, where you're swapping leads, how would you anchor to belay your follower as he catches up and leads the next pitch? Can every type of anchor take a lead fall? Some people use 7mm cordelettes(10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings(22kn), and some people use the rope. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? I can't wrap my head around which approach is the hardest to mess up, which is probably the one I'd use. Are all of these methods legitimate and safe methods to anchor?

Sorry for the poor formatting, currently on mobile.

Edit: Thanks a lot for the help! I wasn't expecting such great responses to my silly question. Liking this sub already!

3 years, 5 months agoel___mariachi posted on tradclimbing.
May 20, 2016

The Mountaineers put out a great anchor books as well (I've never read the Long so I can't comment on how it compares): http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

Info on setting outdoor top rop anchors? [R]

4 years, 4 months agorandclimber posted submission on climbing.
June 12, 2015

I've set my own top rope anchors before using trees, but was wondering if anybody had any good sites or reading to direct me towards.

I feel confident in setting my anchors, but always like to double and triple check for outdoor climbing.

4 years, 4 months agorandclimber posted on climbing.
June 12, 2015

Craig Lubben's book on climbing anchor is much better than John Long.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr15?ie=UTF8&qid=1434117801&sr=8-5&keywords=climbing+anchor

Critique my Anchors (please) [R]

4 years, 5 months agorejoinedReddit posted submission on climbing.
May 27, 2015

It spring time and Trad is my goal. I feel a bit rusty. Can you please critique my anchors.

https://imgur.com/a/Og98l#4

4 years, 5 months agorejoinedReddit posted on climbing.
May 27, 2015

You might learn a bit about placements from this book. Your webbing/master points look fine, but most of your placements are marginal and with a slight adjustment (further back, seated with lobes retracted evenly, etc) they would be bomber!

Friday New Climber Thread for April 10, 2015: Ask your questions in this thread please [R]

4 years, 7 months agojbnj451 posted submission on climbing.
April 10, 2015

[removed]

4 years, 6 months agojbnj451 posted on climbing.
April 14, 2015

Can't go wrong with either... But I really like Luebben's book. There are a ton of photos, and at the end of each chapter he has a check list of skills you should practice and perfect.

Admittedly, I've only spent a little time looking through Long's books (I have two of them). They're very good. But I keep coming back to Leubben's book. Just my two cents.

Trad Climbing NC? [R]

4 years, 9 months agoFeb. 10, 2015

[deleted]

4 years, 9 months agoposikris posted on ClimbingPartners.
Feb. 10, 2015

Obligatory "nothing replaces professional instruction caveat"

I'd recommend Lubben's guide on Rock Climbing Anchors: http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

It's a good start.

Anchor Building Gearlist (n00b Question) [R]

5 years, 3 months agobearbreeder posted submission on climbing.
July 21, 2014

Hello fellow climbers. I'm in my first year climbing and was lucky enough to have a buddy set up ropes for me all around SoCal.

At this point I'm weening myself off his rope-setting teet.

I'm working on both leading sport climbs, and building anchors to top roping. The top roping would be great so I can try some climbs that are harder than what I can sport lead.

Long story short, I would REALLY appreciate if I could get a modest list of gear that I'd need for building anchors.

Thanks so much!

5 years, 3 months agobearbreeder posted on climbing.
July 21, 2014

get a safe and experienced friend to show you how and check your setup

he/she will show you all the gear youll need

and get "rock climbing anchors" by craig luebben ... it cost the same as a locking biner ...

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

;)

Tips for large weight difference? (Lead climb/Belay) [R]

5 years, 6 months ago____Matt____ posted submission on climbing.
April 22, 2014

Hey everyone, just looking for some tips. I've recently began sport leading and would like my girlfriend to start belaying me as she is the one I often climb with. Here's the issue: She's about 120 lbs, and I'm about 195 lbs...tips, thoughts, comments, lectures? Please do.

5 years, 6 months ago____Matt____ posted on climbing.
April 22, 2014

Rig up a ground anchor for her.

This can entail placing a piece of traditional protection at the base of a climb (not always an option) near where she will be standing, and then running the rope through said piece of protection or attaching it to her harness via use of say, a cordelette and a locking carabiner. Good options for attachment to the harness include the belay loop or the haul loop (providing her harness has one, and it's a rated haul loop, which it should be--look at the back of the harness), and which one makes more sense depends on what is going to happen when you fall as far as forces, etc. go and the terrain. Of course, this requires you to have traditional gear and be relatively proficient at placing it, such that you can be sure the gear will resist a pull in the necessary direction(s).

Another option is to rig up an anchor to a sufficiently sized tree, a rock, or some other object that is not going to move if loaded with the force of a fall. I am assuming you have some experience building top rope anchors from trees and similar, and can probably figure out a way to rig this up. If you don't, a book like this one or this one or both wouldn't be a bad investment. Another good investment is a longer than usual cordelette, say 30-40 ft (of 7 mm accessory cord), instead of the more typical ~20-25 ft. In these cases, you'll probably end up attaching what you're using as an anchor to the haul loop on the back of her harness. Make sure that there isn't a ton of slack (but still enough slack) from where she's initially going to stand.

A final option is to use a heavy pack to help anchor her. Same idea as the other two options, the anchor is just not quite as solid, and odds are won't help too much given your weight differences unless that pack is SERIOUSLY heavy.

If you're in a gym, they should have either floor anchors or belay melons (with specified weights) that can be used.

As for things to watch out for, keep in mind that you're going to have to be extra cautious of falling on the first few bolts, and also that you have to be extra cautious of falling when there is a ledge below you. Pretty much any decent fall you take is going to result in her being sucked up to the first clip, and that means you're going to fall much farther than you would if someone of a similar weight was belaying you.

Climbed at Red Rocks a couple of weeks ago. The level of incompetence from other parties was staggering and upsetting. What is going on? [R]

5 years, 7 months agoApril 5, 2014

[deleted]

5 years, 7 months agoChrispSharma posted on climbing.
April 5, 2014

I bought mountaineering freedom of the hills as everyone recommends, it's very comprehensive, so much so I end up using it as a reference.

One of my favorites is [Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors] (http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062). I've used this one the most and to initially teach myself. Also have more experienced people look over your anchors.

People recommend John Long's Anchor book but I've never read it.

Remember to build and weight anchors ground level and place tons of gear on easy climbs when you're starting out. I was always very redundant with gear and of course we practiced on low traffic climbs.

Advice for a trad training situation. [R]

5 years, 8 months agopooinetopantelonimoo posted submission on tradclimbing.
March 12, 2014

Question 1: So I and three others (Paul, Andrew and Ryan) are experienced indoor Lead climbers and top ropers and we are looking to get ourselves trained up in trad climbing by an expert. We do a bit of research and find a couple of trainers in the north east and pick the one that sounds best. (A two day course covering all the bases costing £390 in total so we all pay £97.00 each) Does this sound like a reasonable amount for this course?

Question 2: Ryan thinks this is an unreasonable amount to “learn the basics” and has decided he’s not doing it. I’m fine with him not doing it I think he can just pick stuff up from us and second for a while. But Paul and Andrew have said if he doesn’t do the course they won’t trust his ability, even after seconding for a while, to set kit (like cams and nuts). So they are going to give him the ultimatum today that either he will take the course or we won’t climb with him outdoors. Who is in the right here?

TLDR; 1. Is £390 a reasonable price for a two day course on trad climbing 2. Is it right to require everyone in a group to take the training course, or else they are out of the group?

5 years, 7 months agopooinetopantelonimoo posted on tradclimbing.
March 18, 2014

I have the other two in this series; rock climbing anchors and

rock climbing mastering basic skills

would that do?

Making the move to climbing outdoors for the first time, advice needed! [R]

5 years, 8 months agoEricTheBarbaric posted submission on climbing.
March 12, 2014

Hey friends,

I finally feel pretty comfortable making the switch to outdoor climbing. There is a place pretty near to me that is top rope climbing that I think will be a great starting place to just get comfortable.

My question to you is this!

I went today and checked out the area (I had emailed the municipality responsible for it beforehand) just to see the bolted anchor spots and have a better understanding of the area so what is needed. (the place has a couple dozen spots bolted for anchors through the crag)

Now, I need to buy the gear that I dont already have, and that is the stuff that I will need to build the anchor. I know that there is two pretty simple ways that could easily be done. Which should I go with? Buying the quick draws and using those to anchor in, or using three caribiners and slinging? and why?

thanks for your help!

Edit: words

5 years, 8 months agoEricTheBarbaric posted on climbing.
March 13, 2014

Glad to hear your making the transition to the outdoors. It's an amazing and well worth while endeavor.

Honestly, i would take a class or go with someone well experienced. I know this is what a lot of people say and i might seem redundant, but it really is true.

The reason I stand behind my opinion is that it's not very hard to learn how to set up a top rope on bolted anchors and master that skill. The hard part is knowing how to keep your self out of danger during the process and if you get into danger, how to bail yourself out.

The gym is a very controlled and regulated environment. The outdoors isn't. When climbing outside, there are always unexpected issues and problems that you need to make a judgement call on. I would just recommend that you have a solid foundation of knowledge and at least some first hand experience from someone that you trust, before you potentially get into a situation over your head.

When i first started, this book helped me a lot to fill in any small gaps of knowledge. It is not a supplement for first hand experience though.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

Friday New Climber Thread for Jan 10, 2014 (ODub Edition) [R]

5 years, 10 months agoMauricioPosada posted submission on climbing.
Jan. 10, 2014

In case you missed it, here is Odub's AMA. Be sure to check out this interesting climbing personality.

Rounding up this weeks top posts:

AND NOW THE NEW CLIMBER THREAD

This thread is all about asking questions that you might not otherwise feel comfortable asking people irl or on this forum. There are no stupid questions here, so give us the weirdest thing you have ever thought about! DOOOO ITTTT.

5 years, 10 months agoMauricioPosada posted on climbing.
Jan. 10, 2014

Im planning a trip to the RRG sometime this year. I have some experience climbing outdoors but not much. I was wondering if the knowledge I get from reading this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1389387412&sr=8-1&keywords=guide+anchors

would be enough or if would need a guide? I understand the vagueness of the question and the bad phrasing but any help would be great. Thank you!

What are some tips for practicing anchoring at home? [R]

5 years, 10 months agoJan. 2, 2014

[deleted]

5 years, 10 months agobearbreeder posted on climbing.
Jan. 2, 2014
  1. buy the best beginner anchoring book and read it from cover to cover ... http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

  2. watch mike barter's vids ... http://www.youtube.com/user/mikebarter387

  3. practice at home on fence posts ...

  4. MOST IMPORTANTLY go out with a real experienced person and get them to show/check your techniques ... practice over and over again outside on real climbs

  5. come on reddit and argue about minor details on anchors that wont matter one bit

;)

5 years, 11 months agoWheel-son93 posted submission on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

I'm a competent 5.10 sport lead and have cleaned trad on single/multi-pitch routes many times before. I want to get myself educated in all of the gear and the proper ways to place them (although I know experience is the best educator, I like books :P).

Also, as the title suggests, I already have Freedom of The Hills 8th ed.

5 years, 11 months agoWheel-son93 posted on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

In all seriousness the above is often in short supply, so

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1385663677&sr=8-1&keywords=anchors+a+comprehensive+guide is definitely the best alternative.

5 years, 11 months agohatmatter posted submission on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

I'm a competent 5.10 sport lead and have cleaned trad on single/multi-pitch routes many times before. I want to get myself educated in all of the gear and the proper ways to place them (although I know experience is the best educator, I like books :P).

Also, as the title suggests, I already have Freedom of The Hills 8th ed.

5 years, 11 months agohatmatter posted on tradclimbing.
Nov. 28, 2013

I've got this one, its really well written.

Practicing placements [R]

6 years, 1 month agoDCBarefootRun posted submission on tradclimbing.
Sept. 17, 2013

Recently I started college in Fort Collins and unlike where I come from in Chicago, there's plenty of exposed rock to go around. In summer I put together something of a rack (my pro consists of BD camalots from 0.5-3 and a BD nut set) anticipating getting into trad at some point down the road.

Until I can find someone experienced enough to teach me trad, I'd like to at least ride my bike up to exposed rock and practice placing gear.

What are some good ways to know my placement is bomber? What bad habits should I watch out for?

6 years, 1 month agoDCBarefootRun posted on tradclimbing.
Sept. 18, 2013

I agree with this 100 percent. Pick up Luebben's Anchors book: http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062. Also, get his Rock Climbing book: http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Mastering-Mountaineers-Outdoor/dp/0898867436. He gives you excellent exercises to do at the end of each chapter.

Pro placement question [R]

6 years, 3 months agosteveheikkila posted submission on tradclimbing.
July 29, 2013

I am a new (wanna be) trad climber who has been mock leading. As a brief resume, I've taken 4 classes that covered building anchor though out the last year: 1 on rappeling/anchors, 1 on top rope anchors, 1 on canyoneering and 1 on lead climbing. I've build almost 100 top rope anchors with active/passive pro and/or natural anchors. I've also read a number of books on climbing, anchors, etc...

My question: is there a resource that provides example pro placements (specific to trad climbing) and a discussion of them? I do frequent http://jive-assanchors.com/ but the majority of posts is poorly placed pro or poorly built anchors, and they do go through an explanation of what is wrong and how it could be corrected, which is great. I just want more.

I know, I know: 'just do it' and 'I'm going to die'. Any other responses are welcome :)

TL/DR: Looking for examples of great pro placements

6 years, 3 months agosteveheikkila posted on tradclimbing.
Aug. 3, 2013

The late great Craig Leubben also has a very good climbing anchors book published my the Mountaineers.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

Shute-Mills on Mt. Saint Helena today. [R]

6 years, 3 months agohatmatter posted submission on climbing.
July 13, 2013
6 years, 3 months agohatmatter posted on climbing.
July 15, 2013

Grab this book Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, its a great resource for learning how to build anchors.

Rope drag is generally a bad thing, even smooth surfaces will cause your rope to pick up grit and accelerate wear on your gear. Everyone should know how to properly set up an anchor, its easy once you know some things to avoid and get an idea of what you're looking to accomplish. It gets really interesting in the alpine when you're having to improvise points of protection and your general station set up! Like /u/cardina16 said, make sure you are ERNEST.

Friday New Climber Thread for June 21, 2013 [R]

6 years, 4 months agopinkshirtfedora posted submission on climbing.
June 21, 2013

Hi Folks. This is the thread where Climbit gets together to review the submissions from the past week which deal with problems that beginners experience (think of it as /r/newclimberproblems) and discuss various issues that other members of our tribe are facing.

Lots of interesting threads from the last week. Here are a few:

Now I open the floor to your questions. Can you think of anything that has been bugging you lately or something you think you just don't have a solid grasp on? (bad pun but lol anyways)

Enjoy your weekend!

6 years, 4 months agopinkshirtfedora posted on climbing.
June 21, 2013

Good book here - http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062/ref=sr11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828968&sr=1-1&keywords=anchors