uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

uxcell

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uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

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  • Amazon.com Sold on
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  • uxcell Brand
  • Categories

    Fans & Cooling, Internal Components, Computers & Accessories, Electronics, CPU Cooling Fans, Computer Components

Reddit Reviews and Recommendations

  • 77 Reviews
  • July 15, 2019 Last Review Date
  • Jan. 4, 2014 First Seen Review Date
  • 8 Reviewed on Subreddits

    3Dprinting (63)
    MPSelectMiniOwners (7)
    FlashForge (2)
    3dprinter (1)
    AskElectronics (1)
    Reprap (1)
    mpminidelta (1)
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Discussion and Reviews on Reddit

How to secure glass bed [R]

6 days, 3 hours agoZombieGrot posted submission on 3Dprinting.
July 15, 2019

Hi Guys

I struggle with a little bit of ghosting, I think it is partially bc my glass bed is attached to a printer only by 4 clips. I tried using more clips printed with PLA but it failed.

Can you tell me how to secure my glass ?

5 days, 22 hours agoZombieGrot posted comment on 3Dprinting.
July 15, 2019

My preference (different machine) is to use squares of silicone heat sink pads; one example of many. I cut them into roughly 1" (25mm) squares and space them a bout 1/4" (6mm) apart on the bottom of the glass. They stick better to the glass than they do to the aluminum bed (or Kapton). The glass lifts off easily but it resists shear force (sliding).

Anything between glass plate and aluminum bed? [R]

2 weeks, 1 day agoZombieGrot posted submission on 3Dprinting.
July 5, 2019

I've got a Maker Ultimate (Wanhao Duplicator 6 clone) with an aluminum bed and want to try a glass bed. What, if anything should I put between the plate and the glass? I was considering heat-sink compound, but is this even necessary?

2 weeks, 1 day agoZombieGrot posted comment on 3Dprinting.
July 5, 2019

Squares of silicone heat sink pads are often used. Something like this (there are many other similar, this is just an example). Cut them into 1" / 25mm squares or so and tile the bottom of the glass.

The silicone sticks to the glass better than it does to the aluminum plate, so the assembly is removable. Leaving channels of ~1/4" or 6mm or so between the squares helps to release it; one big sheet could be harder to remove.

Advantage: decent heat transfer, no stinkin' binder clips to get in the way, and they hold position on the aluminum pretty well without shifting.

Disadvantage: some unavoidable reduction in heat flux (so preheat a minute longer).

Help with PETG [R]

3 months, 2 weeks agoblahism posted submission on 3Dprinting.
April 5, 2019
3 months, 2 weeks agoblahism posted comment on 3Dprinting.
April 5, 2019

I trimmed up some stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/ - it's kind of sticky (frusterating) to work with but works well. There may be other sellers with some already fit for your size.

Glass sliding around during prints. [R]

4 months agoZombieGrot posted submission on 3Dprinting.
March 21, 2019

Hey guys,

I just got my glass build plate in today and I can't seem to fix it to the bed very well. It's a bit smaller than the bed itself by about 1cm one way and 1.5cm the other, so my clips can't reach it. I have it taped with painters tape, but I don't know how well that would hold, especially on a long print.

Does anyone know of a convenient way of holding the glass securely? I know there are some clips and stuff, but I couldn't find any that would suit my circumstances.

My printer is an Ender 3, if it makes any difference.

4 months agoZombieGrot posted comment on 3Dprinting.
March 22, 2019

True that. A lot of people (raises hand) use these or similar. I usually buy the larger size and cut it down to 1" / 25mm squares and space them across the bottom of the glass.

Binder clips can bend the glass and the nozzles can collide with them. Silicone pads are so much nicer.

Silicone Thermal Conductive Mat [R]

8 months, 3 weeks agoother_thoughts posted submission on AskElectronics.
Oct. 26, 2018

I have a fanless computer that has a silicone-like thermal conductive material to transfer heat from some components to the case. It's rubbery feeling, sort of like those mats you use to make your cell phone stick to the dash of your car, but it's thermally conductive, does not seem to be electrically conductive, and it's reusable.

Does anyone know what this material might be, or what I should look for? The fanless computer has one that's a tan color and one that's a charcoal grey color, I personally don't care about the color, but I'd like to find more of this for other applications.

8 months, 3 weeks agoother_thoughts posted comment on AskElectronics.
Oct. 26, 2018

Here are some links, the first has bold title and above it is a list of 'parent' links of 3M products
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Thermally-Conductive-Silicone-Interface-Pad-5519/?N=5002385+3294001841&rt=rud
.
I'm not familiar with this product but it seems in the same catagory
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52

Ender 3 Build plate: Binder clips getting in the way. [R]

9 months, 4 weeks agoKronoshifter246 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 26, 2018

I got one of the newer Ender 3 with the build plate that is not glued down to the surface, only held together with binder clips. However, these binder clips have on multiple occasions, gotten in the way of the bed's Y movement, when the arms were not folded onto the build plate. On occasion the stepper motors have made horrible noise when the clips get stuck against the z frame or the clips have been flicked off the build plate causing the surface to shift and the print to get ruined. The clips also get in the way of x movement of the head near the edges causing the bed level to get thrown off as the nozzle rides up above the clips.

So does ANYONE else find this as annoying as me? What are the solutions people have come up with, if any?

9 months, 3 weeks agoKronoshifter246 posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 26, 2018

Something like this. Cut it up into little squares and place them by the corners, and in the center. The build plate (glass or otherwise) kind of "floats" (it sticks to it) on top of the silicone, eliminating the effects of a warped bed. Additionally, there is no loss in heat transmission. It's for heatsinks, so it wants it to transmit the heat through. All it does is keep the plate in place.

The CR-10 is a beautiful machine. Look at that plate adhesion! [R]

10 months, 1 week agoSept. 15, 2018

[deleted]

10 months, 1 week agocoffeegeekdc posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 17, 2018

I guess to be fair, you DO need a silicon pad underneath, which adds another $9

uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcptai_AF4NBb7EFQAGC

Glass bed on a Dreamer [R]

10 months, 3 weeks agoIcanCwhatUsay posted submission on FlashForge.
Sept. 1, 2018
10 months, 3 weeks agoIcanCwhatUsay posted comment on FlashForge.
Sept. 1, 2018

That's cool but um, what if I told you that there's a better way?

Cut this to size and lay a sheet of this stuff down then the glass on top

uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcpapa_6jWIBbP9ADFZD

I use it with my 6x12 BP wonderfully

So my heated bed are not flat! No wonder I have had trouble leveling it... [R]

11 months, 1 week agojwynn6 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 13, 2018
11 months, 1 week agojwynn6 posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 15, 2018

Not so far. The two corners immediately adjacent are used to level in that diagonal and generally control the height of the bed. The corner across from the removed spring is used to provide a teeter-totter leveling action that uses the other corners as a pivot line. The spring in that corner keeps the proper tension to hold the bed in place. I suppose it would droop if I put a bunch of weight on the corner and warped the material, but I left the original metal bed and put glass over it. I'm also not using clips to hold the glass on. I purchased some thermal pad material (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and am using that to help keep the glass in place.

How do you attach your glass? [R]

1 year agowildjokers posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
July 6, 2018

Before you answer, I need you to understand my situation, please:

Binder clips are not working. The gantry gets SOOOO! close to the bed that the binder clips interfere, even if I remove the wire grips. I'm using some kapton tape to strap the glass to the bed, but it's not working on my v2. On my v1, I'm able to put tape all across the bottom of the plate if I want. On the v2, there is some kind of insulation I'm scared to remove and I cannot get enough grip with tape to hold the glass plate down.

So, you may ask what is going on that I need so much force holding the glass plate down? Well, I believe my aluminum plate is warped. This is why I got the glass to begin with. I've got the bed JUST about leveled when I realize that on one corner, as I lower the bed, the glass isn't moving. I'm getting a growing gap between the glass and the aluminum. I know the glass shouldn't flex a whole lot, but I need to pull that corner down! The other three corners are displaying features of a very well leveled print bed, but this corner isn't. :( I'm getting really bad adhesion problems in that corner as a result.

Why is the nozzle nearly perfectly even with the bottom of the gantry? It's like that on both of my MPSMs. On the v1, the kapton tape was successful so I didn't worry about it. On the v2, I need a different solution.

1 year agowildjokers posted comment on MPSelectMiniOwners.
July 6, 2018

I just put glass down last night myself. I used binder clips with wings removed, I also left the adhesive on from the buildtak, that by itself was almost enough to keep the glass on, I added binder clips just in case.

I also printed this z spacer and used it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029

I put the z spacer on, cranked the bed most of the way down, sent printer to Home, then leveled the bed from there (brought the bed quite a bit of the way back up so you don't really have to crank it all the way down if you use the z spacer).

I have seen quite a few people recommend thermal pad, this is a link I found somewhere (have it in my cart, just haven't ordered it yet):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oxscacttitle1?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1

I used this glass (cut it myself with a glass cutter, the corners were a PITA to cut):

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/acrylic-glass-sheeting/shape-products-reg-clear-glass-sheet/810/p-1444441880379-c-7551.htm?tid=6773771992784669203&ipos=1

EDIT: some pictures https://imgur.com/gallery/FR7Kudz

When your first self modeled functional print actually works! YES! [R]

1 year, 2 months agomidnightsmith posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 11, 2018
1 year, 2 months agomidnightsmith posted comment on 3Dprinting.
May 12, 2018

Super well! Like glue really, I don't even use the glass plate clamps.

Amazon link 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52?ref=yopopma_swf

What Mods Should I Install [R]

1 year, 3 months agoKronoshifter246 posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
April 11, 2018

Hello everyone I have acquired a MP Select Mini V2 and i was wondering what the best modifications that i could make to it are.

Side note i have noticed that one the stock bed that it has like cuts and holey areas and the prints don't always stick to it making them slide and not stay connected therefore coming out as a big jumble of wasted filament so i was wondering what upgrade or mod would fix that or how to fix it in general.

Edit: Should I get a bigger bed when i get a glass bed?

Edit: here is a link to the picture: https://imgur.com/a/2Balj

1 year, 3 months agoKronoshifter246 posted comment on MPSelectMiniOwners.
April 12, 2018

That's almost certainly it.

If you're switching to glass, I would recommend against using binder clips, and instead using some silicone pad, as the binder clips caused my glass plate to bow upward in the center. I used this one. This does require you to peel off the BuildTak and remove the adhesive beneath it. I got it to come off with some vaseline and about 30 minutes of scraping with the included scraper tool while the bed was heated.

After that I just cut out some little squares of the silicone and rested the glass on top of it. Works like a charm.

[HELP] Print bed is too low at it's highest setting [R]

1 year, 4 months ago3170 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
March 16, 2018

I'm trying to level my print bed using the paper trick (slide a piece of paper under the extruder), and I've got a problem. One of the corners, even when the nut is loosened as much as possible and the bed can't go any higher, is still too low. See picture. You can see that the nut isn't even touching the bottom of the plate.

Is there anything I can do here? There's a decent amount of space that the Z axis could go lower, but I can't twist it any further to lower it. The motor seems to be at it's end or something.

What can I do?

It's a MP Maker Select Plus V2

1 year, 4 months ago3170 posted comment on 3Dprinting.
March 17, 2018

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52

You only really need about a 2cm piece on each corner of the bed.

Best build surface? [R]

1 year, 4 months agoTron08 posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
March 1, 2018

So what's the best build surface to get (amazon preferred) or should I just do the picture glass upgrade?

1 year, 4 months agoTron08 posted comment on MPSelectMiniOwners.
March 1, 2018

I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/

Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place: https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/

Replacing my heat bed with glass + thermal pad. Looking for advice. [R]

1 year, 5 months agoZilockeTheandil posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Feb. 17, 2018

Does anyone here have experience with replacing the original bed on the mono price select mini V2 with Borosilicate glass and a thermal pad? The original bed comes with a black tape coating. Do I need to remove this black tape before installing the thermal pad and glass? Also, are bed clamps needed if using a thermal pad or will the pad hold the glass in place? I'm fairly new to the world of 3D printing so I appreciate any tips you have. Thanks!

*Link to glass here

*Link to silicone thermal pad here

1 year, 5 months agoZilockeTheandil posted comment on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Feb. 19, 2018

OK, now that I've actually used my thermal pad, I love it! The print I'm currently running is adhering even better than normal, plus I didn't even use the clips! It's just tacky enough to hold the glass in place.

FF Creator Pro: How often to change the blue bed mat ? [R]

1 year, 5 months agoIcanCwhatUsay posted submission on FlashForge.
Feb. 12, 2018

The Creator pro comes with a blue printer bed covering that seems to work well for adhesion, the printer came with several so it seems clear that it will need to be changed eventually - the question is how often should you change them ?

It seems to be OK after maybe 15-20 prints.

1 year, 5 months agoIcanCwhatUsay posted comment on FlashForge.
Feb. 12, 2018
  • Remove the right extruder

  • Add a offset spacer to the right side of the left extruder - extruder will crash if you don't do this as it can't reach the limit switch before the carriage hits the bracket

  • Add the Dreamer fan or similar to the left side - optional, you just need cooling

  • get a single extruder carriage. I got mine from from Raffle.ch who is no longer in business. Just search single extruder carriage for makerbot replicator 2x or something to that and tons will come up. I'd recommend aluminum, but only because I didn't trust the plastic options.

  • Longer X belt - GT2 I believe, amazon has tons of options

  • 8x12 borocilicate plate from Mcmaster PN : 8476K84

  • Silicone Thermal Pad - This distributes the heat a bit better since you'll have a good amount of overhang. amazon

  • Kapton tape - Place a layer sticky side down on the steel/ceramic bp, Make sure it's nice and flat, then stick the silicone pad to the bottom of the Glass BP, then stick that to the kapton. It won't move after that but it can be removed if needed. (Don't ask, it just works rediculously well)

  • Glass BP offset https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:452367

  • and then the tough part, you have to tweak the slicer settings to recognize that it has a larger BP. I'd shoot you my Simplified 3D settings but I'm not at home. It's not too complicated but I recall having a hard time with it. Flashforges uses the center of the BP as 0 and not the front left corner like repraps. So you'll have to do a little thinking here. Also, the tool head has an offset, I don't recall if the right extruder is 0 or -XXmm but you'll have to take that into account too.

  • Last thing you'll need is to cut your heatsink in half, the big aluminum bar that the hot ends fit in. make sure you cut it such that you have the two holes for the strain relief screws still intact, you'll need these for the offset spacer.

Advice needed: Maker Select Plus with Glass bed and DiiiCooler. How do I keep the glass bed stuck down? [R]

1 year, 6 months agoRazgrizReborn posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 8, 2018

I've tried using tiny binder clips, but since the diiicooler has so much footprint, whenever I'm printing within 2cm of the edge of the bed, the diiicooler knocks the binder clips off, which delevels my bed and messes up my prints. How do I keep the bed held down?

1 year, 6 months agoRazgrizReborn posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 9, 2018

After over 4000 hours of printing, there's not much original Maker Select left [R]

1 year, 7 months agoWatersbottle posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 18, 2017
1 year, 7 months agoWatersbottle posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 18, 2017

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I'm using. They're cheap and last forever.

After over 4000 hours of printing, there's not much original Maker Select left [R]

1 year, 7 months agoWatersbottle posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 18, 2017
1 year, 7 months agoWatersbottle posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 18, 2017

This is the exact one I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That sheet is enough to last you through many printers. It holds the heat without issue and I've had my bed up to 130c and didn't smell a thing.

Full-sized glass bed clips? [R]

1 year, 7 months agoMuezza posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Dec. 10, 2017

I recently got a piece of borosilicate for my MP mini. The glass, however, is not square, the piece is a rectangle that measures the same size as the bed. All of the clips I see on Thingiverse are for small squares like 130mm and 140mm. That makes sense since the bed has a little room to allow for the clip to rest.

I was curious if anyone has come across bed clips that would allow me to use a rectangle glass that is the same size as the bed. The glass is 130mm x 160mm and is 5.5mm thick.

1 year, 7 months agoMuezza posted comment on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Dec. 13, 2017

This is the exact product I bought and use.

I cut it into approximate 1 inch squares and put one square in each corner directly on the metal plate. I don't think it will work if you have tape or buildtak on it so clean it off first.

Got a new glass top for my hotbed, but it's smaller than the original, How do I calibrate it? [R]

1 year, 7 months agoTheMadRocker posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Nov. 27, 2017

I wasn't quite sure how to title this post, but my situation is I bought a new Hotbed top for my MakerSelect V2, and because they didn't give ne any adhesive on this glass top, I had to clamp it down with some clips. However, the clips interfere with the nozzle area, and I'm not quite sure how I can go about fixing this.

I want to change the location of my "Home" setting for my printing so I can calibrate my bed, but it keeps hitting my clips off. would there be anyway to change change the setting to have my home located at a different location?

1 year, 7 months agoTheMadRocker posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Nov. 27, 2017

Some use these without clamps. Their are other thickness's on amazon to suit your needs.

Question about Glass Beds [R]

1 year, 8 months agoseentoomuchlately posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Nov. 18, 2017

I have a Qidi Tech printer, and after seeing all these posts about how amazing glass beds can be I've considered getting one of my own.

My question is, do I need anything more then the glass? I chose borosilicate because it seems like it's the best glass out there and currently I have the blue plastic adhesive bed, shown in the picture on Amazon. Can I simply remove this one and drop the glass on there instead, or do I need a special adhesive aswell, and maybe some special coating I dont know about.

Any info on this would be gladly received, if you have warnings against using glass or for different types of glass I'm all ears.

1 year, 8 months agoseentoomuchlately posted comment on 3Dprinting.
Nov. 18, 2017

I used this stuff in between the bed and the glass.

Attempting to Add *Glass Print Bed* this Weekend...Any recommendations? [R]

1 year, 8 months agotiny_tim_ posted submission on mpminidelta.
Oct. 26, 2017
1 year, 8 months agotiny_tim_ posted comment on mpminidelta.
Oct. 27, 2017

Try something like this Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink.

You'll probably want to remove the build material ("BuildTak" stuff) before using the silicone thermal pad. The pad may not stick too well if left on.

You should need to add anything to the starting script but you will need to remember that your max height will be reduced by the thickness of the whatever is added to the bed surface.

Maker select v2 glass bed question [R]

1 year, 11 months agoo_kisutch posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 17, 2017

UPDATE:I'm going to remove the sticker and place the glass bed right on the plate. Thank you so much Reddites!

Should I take off the iiip sticker before I add the thermal pad and glass bed? I don't see it mentioned anywhere.

1 year, 11 months agoo_kisutch posted on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 18, 2017

Heat the bed to 60°, and the buildtak will come off perfect. Then use a thermal gpu pad between the metal and the glass.

DC42's Differential IR Z-sensor with Voron aluminium/PEI bed [R]

2 years agoArgh_computers posted submission on voroncorexy.
July 15, 2017

I'm seeing more mentions of DC42's IR sensor in this forum. Thought I'd try to collect peoples' experiences with it. For PEI, DC42 suggests painting the underside of the PEI black. Has anyone tried it without painting the underside? What surfaces are you Voron IR sensor people using?

2 years agoArgh_computers posted on voroncorexy.
July 17, 2017

Nope, no binder clips.. I use this stuff which works very nice and really grips both the metal plate and glass when it's heated up but releases the glass pretty easily when it cools.

Monoprice Select V2.1 Glass Bed Problems [R]

2 years agoLiquidLogic posted submission on 3Dprinting.
July 12, 2017

I recently purchased a Monoprice Select V2.1 and noticed, as many have, that the bed is warped and therefore tough to level. A lot of people immediately recommended just upgrading to a glass bed and clipping it on top of the existing bed. I tried doing this with small binder clips and it seems that my bed is so warped that it is actually bending the glass when i clip it down, again making it difficult to level. I checked the glass to the best of my ability and it appears to be almost perfectly flat but I am not sure how to go about overcoming the serious warp in the bed on which im placing the glass on top of. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

2 years agoLiquidLogic posted on 3Dprinting.
July 12, 2017

Is it the bed that is warped, or the Y-carriage?

I use silicone thermal pads cut in 2 inch squares that float the glass bed on top of my heated bed. No need for clips.

In my experience, it was the Y-carriage, not the heated bed that was actually warped and prevented me from leveling. In my case, I replaced it with a thicker Y-carriage from amazon.

It's nothing fancy, but I just bought my first 3D Printing kit. Excited to join the community! [R]

2 years, 1 month agoJune 17, 2017

[deleted]

2 years, 1 month agoMacecraft31 posted on 3Dprinting.
June 18, 2017

As I understand it, it helps the glass make good thermal contact with the hotbed. It was a pain to get in place (think the world's most unruly and sticky saran wrap). But it is the best upgrade Ive made so far. Here's what I have:

thermal pad:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

glass plate:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Struggling to get my bed level [R]

2 years, 1 month agoexcellentfrog posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 11, 2017

I've leveled it to the point where the nozzle is basically touching the build plate in all four corners but yet the center is still about 1mm below the nozzle which isn't close enough to squish the extruded filament properly.

I have the prusa i3v from MakerFarm. My y-axis is metal (replaced the wood one that was warping badly). I have the build plate heater with a sheet of PEI on top of it. The middle doesnt appear to be bulging out visibly or anything. Not sure how to correct it but I can't really print anything unless I set it to print towards one of the edges.

2 years, 1 month agoexcellentfrog posted on 3Dprinting.
June 12, 2017

Is it the 12" i3v? The PCB heatbed tends to warp when heated because the heating element is on one side of the PCB. When I was using bang-bang, I placed the nozzle at the center and was able to visibly see the PCB warp away from the nozzle during the heating portion of the cycle (every ~5 seconds).

The following helped me:

  • Switch from bang-bang to PID (configuration.h in Marlin). You will need to replace the mechanical relay with a solid state relay (SSR). I recommend this one - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?mainpage=productinfo&cPath=230&productsid=288. If you decide to get a Fotek or similar instead, try to order one with a much higher current rating than you need.
  • Buy 12"x12" mirror tile from Lowes. It's a little bit thicker than cut glass and so it is less prone to bending.
  • Stick the mirror tile to the PCB heat bed using the silicone thermal pads instead of using the bulldog clips. Clipping the glass to the PCB heatbed will cause it to bend with the heatbed. (https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52)
  • Make sure your hotend and extruder assembly is not loose on the x-carriage. Wiggle it up and down with your hand. See if the eccentric nut needs adjusting.

Glass Bed help on Maker Select v2.1 [R]

2 years, 1 month agoKevMag posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 8, 2017

I recently printed these glass bed clamp to hold this glass bed. Upon heating the bed I realized that the glass bed shrank a few millimeters. Because it shrinks, the glass bed will move a little after heating up. Does anyone know how I am suppose to hold the glass bed in place if it shrinks after heating?
 

After letting the bed cool down, the glass bed expands back to the position I tightened the glass to the clamp.

2 years, 1 month agoKevMag posted on 3Dprinting.
June 8, 2017

I think that the aluminum bed is expanding rather than your glass shrinking. Silicone thermal pads cut into 2" squares work well and expansion doesn't seem to affect them.

How do I stop X\Y homing hitting this? [R]

2 years, 1 month agokuthulu posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 7, 2017
2 years, 1 month agokuthulu posted on 3Dprinting.
June 8, 2017

I had the exact same issue. I solved it by:

  1. getting a cheap piece of glass and sticking my PEI sheet to it.

  2. Then I heated up the buildplate to about 100 and peeled off the buildtak.

  3. put down 4-5 pieces of silicone thermal padding on the bare buildplate. (It will stick to the glass and hold it in place.)
  4. Put the glass on top of the silicone pads (PEI side up)
  5. Raise your Z Stop (depends on the thickness of the glass)
  6. remove the nice glass holders

The glass holders were nice while I was transitioning from using the stock buildtak but the steps I described only take about 20min once you have all the parts. I would also replace your Y Carriage plate. It will save you a lot of time leveling your bed. I only level mine about 3-4 weeks.

When your glass moves...f**** [R]

2 years, 2 months agoclanggedin posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 18, 2017
2 years, 2 months agoclanggedin posted on 3Dprinting.
May 18, 2017

I NEVER have had my glass move on me in 3 years of printing. If you use gino pads it will never move on you.

https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52

Quick PEI installation question [R]

2 years, 2 months agoskline3D posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 11, 2017

I own a MP Maker Select V2, and I'm considering upgrading the print bed to PEI. Should I put on the glass over the aluminum, then the 3M tape and PEI on the glass? Or just the PEI on the aluminum. I heard that glass helps it be more flat, but can take longer to heat up. What should I do?

2 years, 2 months agoskline3D posted on 3Dprinting.
May 11, 2017

Here is my setup.

This is the silicone. It comes in a sheet and I just cut 50mm squares :)

Hope this helps. Sorry for the late reply to the late question! Happy printing!

Printing too close to the bed surface [R]

2 years, 2 months agoGladauk posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
May 6, 2017

Has anyone else experienced issues where the nozzle is too close to the bed surface when printing? I am using Cura as a slicer, PLA, with i3 printer settings modified for bed size, and RandallOfLegend profile

I can tell that the nozzle is too close because I cannot see any material being extruded, but if I push down on the bed, then I can see material coming out of the nozzle

2 years, 2 months agoGladauk posted on MPSelectMiniOwners.
May 6, 2017

Picture of my glass bed http://imgur.com/wBUUlH7

I just used binder clips until I can model a more permanent solution. I also left spaces in the corners so I can still adjust my bed leveling as needed.

I did not need to print any spacers at all, I was able to lower the bed enough where the head didnt crash into the bed.

sorry about the blurry quality, I am in the middle of a print. Now earlier the dimensions I showed you for the glass, that was for the mini select not the i3.

also for better heat transfer and less movement of the glass I did add a layer of silicone to the bed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo01s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it is not necessary to have the silicone at all but for me I like the peace of mind of not having anything slip. (I tend to print a lot while I am sleeping or at work)

Doing a bit of research this is an article about glass beds specifically tailored to your printer

http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/

Advice on how to install a new glass bed for my Duplicator i3 Plus? [R]

2 years, 2 months agozarderxio posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 4, 2017

I currently have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus and I'd like to get a glass bed for it so I won't have to use tape anymore. I can get some cut for around $5-$10 at a hardware store, but I just don't know how I would attach it to the current bed, which is 200x200mm. I'd like it to touch the current bed so it can be heated, but the screws would prevent it from touching (but does glass need to be heated?) How would I go about doing it? Thanks!

2 years, 2 months agozarderxio posted on 3Dprinting.
May 4, 2017

The glass bed does not need to touch for the heat transfer. As /u/Grey406 recommends, get thermal pads, but get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo04s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cut them in two inch squares and put them maybe in each corner and one in the middle (do not fill the whole bed). I would highly suggest not using binder clips. I have the maker select 2.1 and this is a great setup, PLA and PETG have been great with it. The heat will transfer just fine with it floating on top and I've found the binder clips will warp thinner glass. Use aqua hairspray if you need to.

For the glass size: Either get the glass cut to fit within the screws, or buy a dedicated piece of borosillicate glass on amazon that will fit your bed size.

Attaching glass printbed to PCB heater [R]

2 years, 3 months agobrok249 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
April 19, 2017

Hey everyone,

I'm in the middle of a small printer upgrade (RAMPs PICA, anti backlash nuts, couple more printed parts), and I realized that I am simply sick and tired of those stupid paper clip things I've been using to hold the glass print surface to the PCB heater.

While I eventually might just try and desigh/print my own holders, I'm wondering if anyone has any relatively hassle-free methods for attaching and removing glass to PCB, hopefully without any intrusions onto the print area like the paperclips currently cause. I do have a roll of this stuff but I have a feeling it'll be slightly more permanent than I'm hoping for.

I'm not averse to upgrading the heatbed to a different solution either, but I'm also not looking to make the switch to a PEI surface as glass+hairspray has treated me well so far. Thanks in advance.

2 years, 3 months agobrok249 posted on 3Dprinting.
April 20, 2017

Something like this? Certainly seems like what I'm looking for.

Which glass beds would you recommend for my printers? [R]

2 years, 3 months agoOgg_Vorbis posted submission on 3Dprinting.
April 5, 2017

Ok, I have two Monoprice Maker Ultimates and one Monoprice Maker Select (gave this one to my son) and I was wondering if any 200mm/200mm glass bed would work for them? Everytime I look them up they always have other printers names attached to them.

While it's "just a piece of glass" I don't see why they wouldn't. Having said that, I have had pretty good luck with the standard pads that come with the printers, but I'm noticing that they don't last all that long. Some prints tend to stick a bit more than others and it's hard to get it all off without scratching the pad with the scraper.

I tend to head the bed, scrape off what I can and use some alcohol to gently wipe the area to clean it. From what I have read that seems to be the ok way to do it?

Also, with the glass beds (just look easier to clean lol), do you clamp them to the heated bed itself with no pad in between, or do you leave the pad there? I have seen both and I'm not positive what the best way is to do it.

As always, thanks for helping a noob out :) I do research as much as I can before asking but I always feel better "listening" to what users in the community say for stuff like this.

Thanks again,

2 years, 3 months agoOgg_Vorbis posted on 3Dprinting.
April 5, 2017

I went to my local glass shop and had them cut me a few pieces of glass 200mmx220mm and about 3mm thick. I don't have it clamped to the bed, I just cut off squares of this silicone thermal pad, which is sticky enough to keep the bed in place. I also bought a PEI sheet and have applied it to one of the pieces of glass, which I use for PLA. I've heard using a PEI sheet with PETG is a real pain, so I have a couple plain glass beds if I ever try printing with that.

Replacing a Monoprice Maker Select v2 heatbed [R]

2 years, 4 months agoWhiteGoblin posted submission on 3Dprinting.
March 19, 2017

I'm looking to replace my printers heatbed (the one in the title of course). I, in my noob foolishness, put too much pressure on the plate a few too many times causing the middle of the bed to bow outwards. I've been poking my head around and can't seem to find a bed I know for sure would fit. If anyone has any resources for me to look through that I'm missing or direct help/advice on what to get it would be much appreciated.

2 years, 4 months agoWhiteGoblin posted on 3Dprinting.
March 20, 2017

You can use 0.5mm heat sink silicon. The stuff is expensive, but much cleaner than clips and provides better thermal conduction.

It might be even better in your case since your bed isn't even.

https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52

Things to suspend glass bed [R]

2 years, 4 months agoMarch 17, 2017

[deleted]

2 years, 4 months agominor_lazer posted on 3Dprinting.
March 17, 2017

This stuff is good... Glass won't slip, conducts heat, no clips necessary

400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcpapap_Pt35aV5JW79bi

At my wits end, trying to print something but raft won't stay. Info in comments, pls help [R]

2 years, 4 months agoFeb. 26, 2017

[deleted]

2 years, 4 months agoWhatDoIKnow2 posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 26, 2017

As others have said, use cheap hairspray, glue stick, or painters tape.

I don't see anything under your glass. Buy this and cut some small squares to put between the glass and bed. It's a lifetime supply. My Maker Select bed is slightly concave in the middle so my glass only touches the pads on the edges.

I had to get my nozzle closer with glass than I did with the stock buildtack.

It looks like you're printing all the way to the edge of your glass. The glass will warm up up faster in the middle and may never get to the full temp on the far edges. At least give it more time to heat before you start printing.

Using glass on top of an aluminum bed? [R]

2 years, 5 months agoedrazzar posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 15, 2017

Hi all, so my Davinci Pro bed is warping and I can't get my bed to be level all over, I can get the edges good but the middle is off or the middle good but my nozzle hits the edges as it goes to the middle. I am curious how feasible it would be to put a sheet of glass on the aluminum bed and print onto that? If it is at all possible is there something I should put between the two to help heat transfer?

Thank you for any help and advice.

2 years, 5 months agoedrazzar posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 15, 2017

Thanks for the fast response. I like the idea of the silicon thermal pad and was curious if you had any recommendations or if you use something like this.

I figured when I went to glass I wouls use kapton and glue, that is what worked really well when I was using my original Davinci, but I might try hairspray.

Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 metal plate is bent - what now? [R]

2 years, 6 months agoJan. 5, 2017

[deleted]

2 years, 6 months agoLiquidLogic posted on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 5, 2017

Buy silicone thermal pads, cut into 2-inch squares and place all over the heated bed. Place borosilicate glass on top and discard your clips.

Problems with Maker select [R]

2 years, 6 months agoSudoICE posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 3, 2017

So back during black Friday I bought a monoprice maker select v2. After using it a few times I thought it was a great machine but then all of a sudden like a couple weeks before Christmas I started having problem after problem with the thing. At first it was a bed warping issue. Easy enough to fix. I printed and assembled the z axis brace for it and got the bed leveled and it looked good. Then I had troubles with the prints not sticking to the bed. I came here and got some advice to slow down my initial layer speed and upgrade to an all metal hot end. Done. It now lays down the first layer like a champ. But now I've gotten so discouraged by this machine because it looks like it's doing a great job, but then it will just stop extruding mid print. I thought maybe this could be caused by a clog but I disassembled the hot end and cleaned it out and even switched back to the old hot end and it's still giving me the same issue. Part way into a print the extruder starts making a clicking sound and stops extruding material. I don't know what else to do anymore. Does anyone here have any advice that will help? I want to like this printer but I can't get the darn thing to finish a print.

2 years, 6 months agoSudoICE posted on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 3, 2017

Check your drive gear, make sure it's clean and not full of filament. Make sure the first layer is not too close, there shouldn't be any clicking on the first layer. The first layer is the most important, IMHO. You might want to try a cold pull just for kick, although it's hard to believe both hot ends would need one. I hate to even jinx it, but to date my Maker Select v1 has yet to jam during a print, ever (I've only had it for a year). **Switching filaments it a pain though.

For good adhesion I use glass for printing, apply hair spray for PLA and glue stick for ABS before printing, both come off with water. Use cheap glass pane from hardware store and sand the edges/corners, use a "Silicone Thermal Pad" under the glass to stick to the bed.

It's a good printer for the money, hang in there.

Maker Select V2 Bed Leveling [R]

2 years, 6 months agoi_hate_sidney_crosby posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 1, 2017

I'm doing my first few prints on my new Maker Select V2, and I'm having a hard time getting the bed height correct. It seems like either the bed is too low (nozzle too high) and the print doesn't adhere to the plate and the lines are all squiggly, or it's too low and the print quality seems good, but separate items (like the swan's head in the demo files, or something with a support) get knocked by the nozzle and broken off.

Is there a trick to this? Any helpful advice? I feel like if I could get the bed height figured out that would solve a lot of my issues.

2 years, 6 months agoi_hate_sidney_crosby posted on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 2, 2017

Make sure you order some silicone pad too.

400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcpapi_hgUAybNGCXQBT

Layers not sticking on inside of curves [R]

2 years, 6 months agoBongBudz posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 27, 2016
2 years, 6 months agoBongBudz posted on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 28, 2016

Add these to your springs and it will help significantly on tension since the stock setup tends to be loose when it comes to leveling. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1374667 I also removed the black MonoPrice Build pad and replaced it with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo03s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Issues cleaning print bed (See below) [R]

2 years, 6 months agoBongBudz posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 23, 2016
2 years, 6 months agoBongBudz posted on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 23, 2016

I started to print out the clamps for the glass bed mod but didn't like the way they worked so I ordered a Thermal pad that makes the glass stick without clamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo00s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you remove that black pad on your bed it fits nice a snug. All you need to do is heat up your bed to 100c and once it gets nice and warm use something to pull up a corner of the black pad & voila new glass bed. The glass bed will make your first layer butter smooth.

Leveling bed problem, on Wanhao i3 Duplicator [R]

2 years, 7 months agoDec. 19, 2016

deleted

2 years, 7 months agoBongBudz posted on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 19, 2016

Thx for the tips. I ordered one of these to place under the glass was it a good choice? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo00s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

leveling a monoprice select [R]

2 years, 7 months agodotPhoenix posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 9, 2016

I can't seem to get my bed level after a while of using it. I tried to do the thing it tells you on the paper it comes with but to no avail. is there a way that's idiot proof? I can only seem to get the left hand side just level enough to print.

2 years, 7 months agodotPhoenix posted on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 11, 2016

You need some thermal pads(https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&qid=1435448186&sr=8-1&keywords=gino%20pad) roughly 1"x1" to put under the 4 corners of the bed. This will raise the glass bed up by 0.5mm and will prevent a warped aluminum bed from influencing the leveling process. Heat the bed up and clip some binder clips on the 4 corners over the thermal pads. Let it sit for a few minutes. This ensures the pads are compressed and in full contact with the 4 corners of the bed. Once you are ready to level the bead, the clips can be removed. The pads are sticky enough where the glass bed won't slide off while printing. With a glass bed, you need to apply a material the plastic will still to. This can be a glue stick, Auqua Net hairspray(brand is important https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM) or a sheet of PEI. Auqua Net hairspray works great, but needs recoating after a few prints.

Do you need silicone pads with a glass bed? [R]

2 years, 9 months agoRajenK posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 16, 2016

Just curious. I've got some glass beds being cut and I'm picking em up on Monday, but was wondering if the silicone pads were needed or if I could just clip em on.

2 years, 9 months agoRajenK posted on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 16, 2016

I use thermal pads, same thing they use to affix heatsinks on CPU/GPU chips. It helps transfer heat and it has a great grip (doesn't move laterally). Great thing is because you're putting glass on the other end, you can still lift it off if needed.

Do you need silicone pads with a glass bed? [R]

2 years, 9 months agolurking_my_ass_off posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 16, 2016

Just curious. I've got some glass beds being cut and I'm picking em up on Monday, but was wondering if the silicone pads were needed or if I could just clip em on.

2 years, 9 months agolurking_my_ass_off posted on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 16, 2016

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52

Just grabbed one of these. Should be easily cut down to the size I need, and according to the reviews, it's a pretty good one.

Thanks for the idea!

New silicone pad question [R]

2 years, 9 months agoSpiraldox posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 1, 2016

So I just added a silicone pad to my Maker Select v2.1. I used a piece roughly the same size as my glass bed. Unfortunately, it sticks much better to the glass than the heated bed, meaning when I go to clean the glass or apply hairspray or whatever else, the silicone comes with. I had expected it to stay on the bed itself. Is this an issue?

The other piece of the puzzle is that based on the "bubble" pattern between the glass and silicon, I can tell that it's not 100% flat to the bed or the glass. Lifting the glass seems to make this worse. So while the bed is level right now, I am concerned that due to the silicone shifting it won't be when I take it off next time.

Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks!

2 years, 9 months agoSpiraldox posted on 3Dprinting.
Oct. 3, 2016

I got mine from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo00s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Build platform higher at center? [R]

2 years, 10 months agoTCL987 posted submission on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Sept. 23, 2016

I just got a piece of glass today to upgrade my Select Mini but I can't seem to get the entire platform level and I'm thinking it's because my build platform (the one that it comes with) is higher in the middle. When I get all four corners at the correct height (where a single piece of paper can slide under the nozzle with a little friction), the nozzle is scraping against the center portion of the platform (highlighted in red).

Is there anything that I can do to fix this?

2 years, 9 months agoTCL987 posted on MPSelectMiniOwners.
Sept. 26, 2016

I used pieces of Silicone Thermal Pad to "float" the glass on top of the bed. I bought the 0.5mm thick pad I linked to and it has worked but it really only touches the glass in a few spots. It's enough to keep it in place but a 1.0mm pad might make better contact and transfer heat better.

My Mini's heat bed seems to be lower in the centre so my glass mostly only makes contact at the corners, since yours is higher in the centre you might have an issue with the glass resting on the centre and rocking side to side. If you have this issue you might be able to use pieces of thinner silicone pad in the centre and pieces of a thicker pad in the corners.

Also you don't need to completely fill the gap between the heat bed and glass with thermal pad, doing so will make it difficult to remove the glass. Ideally you want it to stay in place while printing but pop off with a little force when lifted.

Quick Bed Leveling Question [R]

2 years, 10 months agoKevMag posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 21, 2016

Building my first Prusa i3 clone right now (already built a delta) and I have a quick question. My heated bed is bowed and when I clipped the glass on it did flatten out, but when I do the paper test at the corners it ends up being about .3 mm too high at the center of the bed. Do I simply need a thicker piece of glass? Right now it's got a piece from Lowes that's about 2.5 mm thick. Thanks!

2 years, 10 months agoKevMag posted on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 21, 2016

Buy gino pads. Put 6-8 50mmx50mm squares around just the outside of the bed, none in the center. Ditch the binder clips, glass is not nearly as stiff as most people think and the gino pads will hold the glass in place without distorting the glass.

Avoiding Bed Adhesives [R]

2 years, 10 months agoSept. 13, 2016

[deleted]

2 years, 10 months agoThePieWhisperer posted on Reprap.
Sept. 14, 2016

I have the same printer and had issues with bed flatness. If you're down to move to glass, I'd recommend the square https://folgertech.com/products/borosilicate-glass-print-surface-200mm-round-and-square-3mm

and one of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauisearch_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using it on top of the build surface that came with it (never bothered to remove the factory one), and the silicone just sticks the glass down plenty. Would probably work fine on the bare aluminum too.

Glass glued down? [R]

2 years, 10 months agoSpiraldox posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 9, 2016

Do people do that? Everyone is always gluing PEI or something to glass and still holding it to the plate with clips.

But could you glue the glass to the bed and glue the pei to the glass? Just wondering if people do it, and if you have, if it has worked out well?

2 years, 10 months agoSpiraldox posted on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 9, 2016

get some silicon pads.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohauidetailpageo00s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut them into triangles and put them in each corner of the glass bed. It'll hold it snug and won't move while you're printing.

Ordering the Maker Select, are there any add-on bits I should get with it? [R]

2 years, 10 months agoLiquidLogic posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 8, 2016

Thanks to everyone that corrected me a few weeks ago in the discussion about the new Micro 3D Kickstarter. Following on from that, I'm ordering the Monoprice Maker Select and a couple rolls of filament. I'm doing this while visiting the US and will take the box in my checked luggage (currency rates make it much cheaper to get it and bring it back with me) so it'll be the biggest thing I bring back!

I'm aware that with it being a budget printer there are some improvements that can be made, so I'm curious what additional bits I can get now that will make things easier for me. I see different nozzles and other metal parts, no reason to pick those up? I'm ordering from Amazon so if I can get it all in one order, even better.

Edit: Thanks everyone! I've ordered the Maker Select plus: * 2 sheets of borosilicate glass (just in case I'm clumsy) * Silicon padding sheet * Printer scraper thing with nozzle drills * Upgraded fan * Micro Swiss nozzle and all metal hotend * 2 rolls of PLA * 1 roll of ABS

2 years, 10 months agoLiquidLogic posted on 3Dprinting.
Sept. 8, 2016
  1. borosilicate glass plate + silicone thermal pads to evenly distribute the heat. (cut pads in 2inch squares and place them in a grid. The glass plate will sit on top of the pads)

  2. D4 extruder gear upgrade

  3. 50mm radial blower fan for DIIICooler upgrade

  4. 8mm or 5/16" threaded rods for Z-brace upgrade

  5. Micro Swiss All-metal hotend

What does Borosilicate Glass do for me? [R]

2 years, 11 months agocentenary posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 18, 2016

My finger is hovering over the buy button on a Maker Select 3D printer, the Micro Swiss head replacement and some filament. This will be my first printer.

I have seen a lot of folks recommending a borosilicate glass plate too, but none of them have said why we should get it. At $13, I'm just going to get it. But I would like to know what the benefit is. Thanks!

2 years, 11 months agocentenary posted on 3Dprinting.
Aug. 19, 2016

I don't have a particular recommendation. I bought this, but it was just the first one I tried, so I don't have a basis for comparison. Note that this is way too much, so if you can find a smaller sheet, you could save a bit of money.

The glass does take longer to warm up, and one downside to having glass in general is that the thermistor doesn't know the temperature of the glass, it only knows the temperature of the aluminum bed. I just preheat for an extra minute or so, I haven't seen any issues with that.

I haven't noticed anything in particular about thermal conduction.

Buying glass? [R]

3 years agonnt_ posted submission on 3Dprinting.
July 13, 2016

I've heard a lot of good things about glass and aquanet so I think I'll try that. Do you know of any good suppliers of boroscillate glass (that's the kind I want, right?) that have good glass for a good price? Would you recommend using binder clips or can you use 3M tape with glass? If you needed to change the glass for some reason would cleaning up the tape residue/ getting the glass unstuck be a pain? How much would you heat the bed with glass? Am I just supposed to look for any unscented aquanet? How thick is the glass supposed to be? Do you have any other advice for using glass or should I try something else? I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2 with a 200 mm (8 inches) x 200 mm bed. Thanks! :)

3 years agonnt_ posted on 3Dprinting.
July 13, 2016

The Monoprice printer can't really go hot enough to worry about needing borosilicate.

I've been using a $2 sheet I got locally for months without an issue. If it fails, I'll buy another.

Spend the money you saved to buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcpapi_pEKHxbJQP9WPJ

Put a 1 inch square at all four corners of the glass. It's tacky enough to keep the glass from shifting, but easy to remove. That package will basically be a lifetime supply.

Your head will crash into binder clips. They're super annoying.

Is it just me, or are the "BuildTak" sheets included with the Monoprice Maker Select crap? [R]

3 years agomrgreen4242 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 24, 2016

I love my Maker Select, but the PEI(?) sheet that was pre-adhered to the bed was really uneven. There was an second sheet included, so I figured it was probably just slapped on in the factory without too much care and went ahead and pulled it off.

Rather than sticking the second sheet to the bed directly, I grabbed a couple of cheap glass panes from Home Depot and put the second sheet on one of them.

As soon as it was warmed up it immediately became riddled with valleys and hills. Nearly impossible to get good first layers on.

So today I trimmed down the second sheet of glass and stuck about a dozen 1"X1" thermal pads onto to one side and hit the other side with some of my wife's hairspray. Doing the first print right now, but I haven't seen a first layer stick this well since I've my printer. I'm sold on glass plus hairspray, at least for PLA and a heated bed!

What's your experience with the print bed sheets included with the MP Maker Select?

3 years agomrgreen4242 posted on 3Dprinting.
June 24, 2016

Nothing to feel bad about! This stuff is new to everyone at some point and none of it is super intuitive.

My recommendation is to peel them both off, clean up the build plate up with rubbing alcohol, then get some glass sheets and cut them to 8x8" or 8x8.5", and use some of this stuff cut into 8-12 1x1" squares to hold it onto the build plate, 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PPEW52/ref=cmswrcpapi_5.EBxbMP1HDRT.

Spray it with a thin layer of hairspray and let it dry while the printer heats up. You'll have to re-level the bed of course and might need to move the z end stop to make it fit.

maker Select V2 warped bed, solution ? [R]

3 years, 1 month agocweagans posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 20, 2016

Hi, i've recently (2 months top) purchase the monoprice maker select from monoprice and after a couple of small print i've try to print Large. My nozzle is ether too far from the corner or too close from the center and after a couple of hours of testing it seam that that the bed isn't perfectly flat, the center if lower from the corner. I've seen online that you can buy a glass sheet to put on the bed. Would it fix the pb, does the heat from the heated bed will go through the glass or i would have to buy blue tape ?

Or is there another solution ?

3 years, 1 month agocweagans posted on 3Dprinting.
June 20, 2016

Yes, glass will fix this. Buy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI + a can of Aqua Net (unscented) hair spray at the grocery store. Put the silicone under the glass, put a light coating of Aqua Net on the glass, and you're good. Plus, printing on glass gives the bottom sides of your print a very nice smooth & reflective surface.

Ready to take the plunge. Please take a look at my shopping list. [R]

3 years, 1 month agocweagans posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 17, 2016

First of all, let me say that this sub has been an amazing resource in my decision to jump into this hobby. 3D Printing has always fascinated me and I'm excited to finally join the movement. Before I pull the trigger, I thought it would be good to get some feedback on my list. The plan is to go with the Monoprice Maker Select a.k.a. rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2. I have done a lot of research on this machine, and I think the list below includes most of the major items to upgrade and mod the Maker Select into a respectable printer.

Please take a look and let me know if you have any thoughts or things I should add or change. Thanks for the feedback and thanks to everyone who makes this sub such a great community and resource for new members.

For filament, I have two options. I have recently read poor reviews of the Makergeeks filament on this sub, so I may go with the spools from Amazon depending on feedback.

3x Filament from Makergeeks - 1.75MM PLA $75

3x Amazon Filament- 1.75mm PLA $64

Suggested in comments: Microcenter $54

**Edited to add Microcenter filament, Diicooler fan, and update SD card

3 years, 1 month agocweagans posted on 3Dprinting.
June 20, 2016

My Maker Select came with a small putty knife. Maybe don't need the removal tool. Definitely skip on the z brace kit. That's too much. Hardware stores have the parts you need for < $5. Glass and thermal pad are slightly cheaper on Amazon (I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI).

I seem to recall seeing some issues with Inland filament, though I can only find this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4owjlc/inlandmicrocenterbrandplaissuesisthis_not/

I <3 BAMtack. It's inexpensive, prints well, doesn't have any strange odors (or much of an odor at all, for that matter), and is packaged well (vacuum bag with desiccant inside). I print mostly with their natural color PLA (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016EFX8Y4), but I have a friend that prints with their colored PLAs all the time and he loves it.

I had a hard time with the DiiCooler mod, mainly because I still couldn't see the part printing very well. I opted for http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246425 instead. Uses the same fan and everything, but it's a much easier print, and it gives you complete visibility in the front.

You may also be interested in taking a look at the mod list on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tS8u_oqNH7A. It's pretty impressive.

Just got a monoprice maker select, what would cause this? Pics inside [R]

3 years, 1 month agowscarlton posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 13, 2016

I printed a small bear yesterday just fine, today I'm trying to print this

And, this is what happened, twice.

To make sure it wasn't the model I tried one of the ones that came on the SD card, and I just now caught it - when the head moved it appears to have grabbed or caught on what it previously printed and screwed it all up. What do I do?

I just readjusted the bed to make sure the gap was OK. Other than that I have made NO changes to any settings.

3 years, 1 month agowscarlton posted on 3Dprinting.
June 13, 2016

Bed heating will not be an issue. Here is what I (and a lot of others have done):

Take off the BuildTak so that you have the bear aluminum bed (make sure to clean it of all the leftover adhesive from the BuildTak). Get some silicone pads and cut about 2"x2" squares and place them at each corner. Place the glass plate on top and you're done.

Here is my setup.

Prints not sticking at all anymore? Do you think I'm on the right track? [R]

3 years, 2 months agoKevMag posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 15, 2016

I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (which is almost the same as a Wanhao Duplicator) and I use PLA filament. I've had it for about 3 weeks and have been printing pretty much non-stop and things have stopped sticking to the building platform (I just used the building platform without anything on it) completely. Is it normal for them to wear out so quickly or is something else the problem? I ordered a PEI sheet to help with sticking that won't be here for about another 2 weeks I believe. I tried blue tape but only about 1 out of every 10 prints would stick. My boyfriend says that I should try leveling the all 3 of the axises. Do you think he's right? How do you think I should go about doing that if he is since I can't print anything right now? (One of the screws on the build platform is extremely tight to screw if that is a clue to anything.) Should I just wait for the PEI sheets to get here before I mess with other things? What do you think? Where do you think I'm going wrong? Thanks! :)

3 years, 2 months agoKevMag posted on 3Dprinting.
May 15, 2016

The great thing about glass is that it is flat with even pressure. It will bend some if clamped down onto a non-flat surface. some people say that PEI on glass is the ultimate surface for printing. I personally favor AquaNet hairspray on glass held on with thermal pads.

Bed leveling issue. Not sure what to do. [R]

3 years, 2 months agoLiquidLogic posted submission on 3Dprinting.
May 6, 2016

I have a Monoprice Maker Select. If you're not familiar with this printer, it has 4 threaded bolts on the corners with springs and wing nuts.

So, my issue. I moved the Z stop to the higher of the two settings (further from the print bed). I tighten all four corners down to their max. The print head (at Z stop) is much closer to the front left then it is to the front right. When I go to level the bed, the front left only has to be let out a little bit where as the front right is practically at its maximum, to the point that the wing nut can spin freely and the spring can no longer raise the bed.

I cant lower the Z stop or I'm afraid it will make contact with the bed on the front left, but that would solve my front right problem I think...

I recently made the switch to glass. The glass is much thicker then I expected, which is definitely part of the problem. I've had it leveled fine before (since I put the glass on, it wasn't perfect), so I'm not sure if I've suddenly gone retarded or there's something wrong with my bed... Either way, not sure how to fix this.

Also, since I installed the glass, it seems to be closer in the center of the bed then the corners. I'm gonna get a straight edge out tonight and check to see if the glass is actually bowed, but I doubt it is.

One more question: How do you hold the glass down to the print bed? I got the smallest clips (black binder clips) that will fit but they still interfere with the print head, and it makes me nervous that a print will send the head through one of them...

3 years, 2 months agoLiquidLogic posted on 3Dprinting.
May 6, 2016
  1. Your Y-Carriage is bent. This is a well known issue with Wanhao Duplicator I3. Its thin (2mm?) aluminum and will eventually warp the front right corner over time. You can fix it temporarily by removing the bed, and gently bending the corner back. A more permanent fix is replacing the Y carriage.

  2. Replace your Z-axis endstop with a Screwless Z-Endstop. I had to do this and when I added a borosilicate glass bed. This also will help with the warping of the Y-carriage, as you can adjust it to where you wont have to crank down on the front right thumbscrew so much. Also, you might try leveling your X-Axis. Sometimes one of the rails the Y-axis rides on is unlevel, and this will help (or you can try leveling the rails).

  3. Hold your new glass bed in place with Thermal Silicone Pads. They help transfer the heat and keep your glass bed in place without clips.

Hope this helps! Good luck. PM me if you have any other questions.

Monoprice Maker Select - Printing Problems [R]

3 years, 3 months agotcinsatx posted submission on 3Dprinting.
April 15, 2016

Currently, I am having a bit of a problem with my printer. When I start a print it starts to go ok, but then the plastic starts to bubble/pop-up. The surface starts to get all warped, and eventually the plastic (PLA) gets ripped off of the bed surface. Is it problems with the temperatures?

Video / Heat Settings during print

3 years, 3 months agotcinsatx posted on 3Dprinting.
April 16, 2016

I have a Maker Select and that glass. I used this to adhere the glass to the bed: http://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/ It's adhesive and holds the glass well. I just cut the thermal mat in half and it's the perfect size. I didn't bother cutting it into little squares as I've seen others do but it works just fine.

Glass bed with Aquanet super hold hairspray (a couple of light coats) and I never have bed adhesion problems.

When I bed level, I use one sheet of paper folded over (so 2 thicknesses). I level so that I feel significant drag on the paper - more than you'd think. That way the first layer is well squished onto the bed.

3 years, 4 months agoSpaceCow1 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
March 8, 2016

I'm thinking about getting a Wanhao i3 v2 but worry with my ocd I'm going to pull my hair out constantly tweaking things. Is this a legitimate concern or after initial tweaking is it fairly stable?

Is there another printer with similar capabilities and price up to $600 that is more suitable?

3 years, 4 months agoSpaceCow1 posted on 3Dprinting.
March 9, 2016

It is almost a must do if you want to use your whole bed, the aluminium warps and it is impossible to level. Make sure to put .5mm thermal pads and don't use clips to hold the glass. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52?psc=1&redirect=true&ref=ohauidetailpageo06_s00

Finally got my Monoprice Maker Select dialed in [R]

3 years, 4 months agoACM1911 posted submission on 3Dprinting.
March 6, 2016
3 years, 4 months agoACM1911 posted on 3Dprinting.
March 6, 2016

I probably wouldn't glue it on. I will probably go with these thermal pads in the future.

Recommendations for tape to secure glass to bed of Maker Select [R]

3 years, 4 months agoSpiraldox posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 23, 2016

So, I'm going to be buying a Maker Select in the next couple of weeks and two recommendations were made for simple modifications to improve the printing experience. The first was the DiiiCooler and the other was getting some borosilicate glass for the print bed. This glass was recommended, and I'm hoping that the 13mm difference in the dimensions (the glass is 200x213 and the print bed is 200x200) won't make a significant difference. My question is this: I'd like to avoid bothering with clips and prevent the issue of the print head running into the clips, so I want to secure the glass to the bed directly. I know I need high-temp double-sided tape, so what would you recommend?

3 years, 4 months agoSpiraldox posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 23, 2016

I personally use, silicon heat pads in the corners to mount my glass bed. http://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52 I bought a sheet and cut the squares myself. The 200x213 will work fine, the 213 will fit between the rivets of the aluminum bed.

My Maker Select / Duplicator i3 mod documentation and review. [R]

3 years, 5 months agohewasajumperboy posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 18, 2016

Hello humans! First off, thanks for being an awesome community and sorry in advance for the impending wall of text! I have successfully started down the rabbit hole, alienated myself from my friends and family and am now printing a small army of plastic models. Anyway, I promised some of you updates on my mods and my aim here is to provide documentation and illustration of my search for quality prints.

  • Firstly, CALIBRATE YOUR E-STEPS. I can't stress this enough, my first layer quality went from under extruded crap to passable with this one. Don't assume your printer is correct! Here's a picture of the quality difference on failed prints.

  • My first ever prints were thumb wheels for the bed levelling nuts. When setting up the printer for the first time, before even turning it on I had decided these were a no brainer mod; the wing nuts just suck something fierce.

  • Raspberry Pi case for Octoprint. The control! The freedom! Remote monitoring! Wow! I've been toying with swapping out the Pi for a compute stick but haven't found the need (yet). The interface can be slow initially to service requests (loading the page for the first time) but once it lives in cache I don't have speed issues. I upped the serial speed to 250K but even at 115K it seemed to keep pace with the gcode. I may try to hack in 1.5M or 3M baud (the FT232RL chip supports these modes) serial but I have a sneaking suspicion there may hardware and/or driver limitations on the pi side of things. Also, does anyone know where to configure 16:9 aspect for MJPEG-Streamer? Setting a 16:9 resolution in the octopi confriguration causes something to scale the output to 4:3.

  • Next up were Z-braces. Holy stability and square z axis, batman! PS: did you know you needed 6 ball end thumb wheels? The instructions were somewhat unclear, should have thought it through and trusted my gut before I needed to disassemble and print 2 more ball end thumb wheels. This was easily my longest print, nearly 22 hours; I printed nearly everything in one go.

  • Diiicooler part cooler. Simply better. Be sure to use a blower fan for ludicrous mode and do a PID tune on the hot end with the fan running. I opted for a lower RPM fan to keep the noise down plus my source didn't require soldering or crimping to attach to the printer which was a pleasant surprise. The only con of this cooler is that you can't view parts as easily but it's a small price to pay to keep this from happening to prints.

  • Does your Duplicator sound like a hovercraft? Mine did. So I printed a new back plate for the control box and splurged on Noctura fans all around! There's 4 fans in total on my printer now, 3x40mm (extruder, and 1x60mm Upon first install there was tons of positive pressure, air was dumping out of every vent and crevice and I thought this was brilliant, at first. The power supply was getting hotter than I preferred, increasing the external of the control box to 32C even though it didn't have direct contact to the area I was testing. I put some hard thought into it and realized the Noctua fan didn't have enough positive static pressure to overcome the enclosure so I flipped all fans and switched the case to negative pressure cooling. I then taped the closest vents to the exhaust fans to pull more air across Melzi. Cool as a cucumber and sounds more like a kinda loud computer than an in-room hovercraft.

  • Extruder gear. 12mm is TIGHT but damn. No more grinding filament at high E speeds (so far). Also, check your infill percentages, that plus first layer print speed attributed to the majority of my skipping extruder issues. I seriously saw similar quality increases to this guy but I'm kicking myself for not doing identical before and after prints because I changed this out at the same time I changed out all the fans and I was focused on keeping the control box cool. Edit: I lied, I just found a pair of Marvins in my log book that dated slightly before and slightly after the extruder gear upgrade (just ignore the fact the lighter one is PLA and the darker one is ABS though)!

  • Lower your acceleration (and jerk). 3d printing is a test of patience and perseverance. But sometimes printing geometric parts at 60mm/s can be a fun test.

  • Adjustable Z-stop. My printer had issues that didn't come to light until I went to raise my endstop to the highest frame position. The stepper motor is responsible to depress the switch but my printer had ~1-2mm of contact. After adjusting, there was just enough wiggle room that the toggle portion of the switch just slid off to the side of the stepper and didn't contact. Ugh. I might print this tool to help with z alignment issues in the future because finding a spot where the calipers fit was a PTIA. Funny story, this was my first "small" ABS print that revealed all sorts of fun, temperature related issues.

  • PEI build surface. This stuff is sticky (to ABS, it just feels like smooth plastic) yellow-amber magic for ABS. Wipe with alcohol (and don't scratch)! Prints stick well but not too well. I've pulled prints off with the bed still over 100C and with the bed at 21C, they just pop right off, amazing stuff.

  • I also performed the extruder temperature ground feedback mod. This did nothing measurable on my machine. Before the mod, there was sufficient ground continuity (0.2 ohms from one end of the board to the other) that I suspected nothing would come of this mod. I even put an oscilloscope on the ground plane to see if there was any feedback but couldn't differentiate the noise floor from the ground plane but I did the mod anyway since my control box was already disassembled and more ground never hurt anybody (well, maybe if ground became too capacitive but that's a story for another time). Seriously, just do a PID autotune instead, not that it was the most challenging solder job ever though, just not a night and day difference as was hinted at.

Future mods include:

  • Tuning stepper voltages. Supposedly this makes the printer less musical. The lady friend in my life would probably appreciate it but I have a feeling I'll miss the reassuring harmonics. There's some discussion on the topic here.
  • Angled LCD. Because the printer doesn't live on my standing desk.
  • Re-print Z-tower braces (they're warped and have splits but this hasn't affected functionality)
  • Edit: All metal hot end
  • Melzi to ramps-fd conversion? Auto bed leveling seems like a fun feature.
  • Since I might have a spare Melzi laying around (and a heated build plate) I might as well build another printer...
  • Enclosure? Could be dangerous...
3 years, 5 months agohewasajumperboy posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 21, 2016

Sure thing!

Here's the pad. If I were to reapply it again, I would cut it to the footprint of the glass less 5mm per side because with the PEI build surface the areas that don't contact the pad are 10-15C cooler.

Trying to decide what's necessary and what's junk [R]

3 years, 5 months agoSimianSteam posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 18, 2016

So, I'm about to take my second dive into 3D Printing (Built a Prusa i3 Rework a couple years ago and never quite got it working right.) and I'd like some advice on what accessories and such are actually useful, and what's just junk capitalizing on the rising popularity of 3D printing.

I've ordered a Maker Select from Monoprice after a lot of research. I'm sure I'll be pretty comfortable with it since it's a modified version of my last printer. I've also got a glass bed to use with it. Here's what I'm wondering about:

Cleaning filament. I was looking at it in Microcenter and it just looked like ordinary natural filament. Is it worth it, or can I just use natural filament to clean out the hot end?

Upgrades. I've read a lot about various upgrades (It's the same as the Wanhao i3, apparently, so there's a lot of info out there.) I think I read too much. What kind of general things should I be looking to upgrade on it? I'm talking about stuff like axis wobbles, etc.

Finally, anything else I'm missing?

Thanks!

3 years, 5 months agoSimianSteam posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 19, 2016

I'm thinking I'm going to build this Ikea enclosure I saw on another thread, and in that design the filament comes in from the top so I'll probably go with the guide you linked.

Good call on the Z Axis. I'll go with that one as well.

Just to make sure you saw it, they sell the block separately as well.

I read about the warping issue in other threads. The best solution I saw discussed was using these silicone heat sink pads instead of clamping the glass to the aluminum heat bed. Since the bed only moves in 2 axis you don't have to worry about it moving in Z.

http://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52

My new toy is supposed to arrive on Tuesday. Should've been this week, but Monoprice really let me down on shipping. 3-5 days my ass.

[Question] How do I secure my glass bed better? [R]

3 years, 5 months agoSoncassder posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 12, 2016

I bought a borosilicate glass bed from makerware and apparently the two corner clamps aren't enough to prevent movement while printing. I've tried googling this, but simply can not find anything relevant.

How do I prevent it moving around on top of the bed?

3 years, 5 months agoSoncassder posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 12, 2016

This http://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52

With four 1.5" piece cut and placed at the corners the glass no longer requires clamping and stays put until you're ready to remove the print if it happens to adhere especially well.

I guess that's what I got for forgetting to re-clip the bed after cleaning it. [R]

3 years, 5 months agoiamnotchris posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 5, 2016
3 years, 5 months agoiamnotchris posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 5, 2016

Just get this a silicone thermal pad and cut it up into squares, and call it a day. The adhesion is enough that it will hold the glass in place, but not so much you can't pull it off to clean it. Also, join us on the DI3 facebook group (it's very active).

And my fan as well has the same exact split haha.

Last night I decided "just one last print on blue tape before switching to PEI". I'm so done with cleaning this off my prints. [R]

3 years, 5 months agohewasajumperboy posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 4, 2016
3 years, 5 months agohewasajumperboy posted on 3Dprinting.
Feb. 4, 2016

It's a Monoprice Maker Select, a duplicator clone.

The fan shroud is the Diiicooler by pawpawpaw85 with a blower fan. Fantastic mod, I can't run the fan above 55% without hotend temperature issues.

I'm adhering the PEI to my glass to start but there are plans to maybe utilize another material like plexi or acrylic for flexibility to help remove parts. Another user suggested using aluminum plates which would be great for heating and cost but I'm not entirely sold yet.

The glass is held to the bed using thermal pads (basically the thermal paste you find on the bottom of heatsinks).

Help choosing a 3D printer [R]

3 years, 6 months agoIcanCwhatUsay posted submission on 3dprinter.
Jan. 17, 2016

I've done some research on 3D printers, and I'm considering the Lulzbot TAZ5, Flashforge Creater Pro, and Ultimaker 2 (in that order). I want a reliable printer (few failed prints), and I'd like to be able to print with a variety of materials but ABS is a must. This will be my first printer, but I feel comfortable tinkering and learning how to use a more involved printer. I'd really appreciate it if any of you can recommend one of the above (or another printer). This isn't a small investment for me, so I want to choose wisely. Thanks!!

3 years, 6 months agoIcanCwhatUsay posted on 3dprinter.
Jan. 17, 2016

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

  • How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?

I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)

  • What do you like the most and the least about this printer?

Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.

Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)

  • Have you printed with ABS?

Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.

  • If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?

No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA

  • Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?

Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.

The first was when I got it

The second was when I added the glass build plate

The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.

That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)

  • Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!

The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.

single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.

My Thingiverse for example prints

Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:

Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::

Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes

Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.

Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.

TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.

Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!

Alternative to clamps: thing sheet of silicon or rubber? [R]

3 years, 6 months agohonoredtwig posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 13, 2016

One thing that still annoys me a bit with my printer is that i have to clamp the glass plate to the aluminium heat bed. It's a constant source of pain. I think there could be a smarter way to do it. It seems like all it needs is some rubbery layer between glass and aluminium. Has anyone tried to use a thin sheet of rubber or silicone to fix glass to aluminium? Gravity plus friction should be enough or am i wrong here?

Sorry for the typo, you can't edit the headline apparently.

3 years, 6 months agohonoredtwig posted on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 14, 2016

You want this, it's a thermal conductor, not an insulator.

It works great for me (I wish I could claim this as my own, but I learned about it from the Wanhao Google Group).

can i use double sided kapton tape to put a glass plate on my heated print bed? [R]

3 years, 7 months agoalexamoUS posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 15, 2015
3 years, 7 months agoalexamoUS posted on 3Dprinting.
Dec. 15, 2015

You should try with that silicone thermal pad. not easy to install cause super thin but once done, you won't even need biners to hold the glass on top of it http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52?psc=1&redirect=true&ref=ohauidetailpageo06_s00

Has anyone had any luck with Makergeek's glow in the dark PLA? [R]

4 years, 1 month agoguitartoys posted submission on 3Dprinting.
June 5, 2015

I just received my spool a few days ago, but the material warps so much that almost every print pulls itself off of the print bed. Currently printing on kapton tape at 210 degrees with 75 degree heated bed. Turned my fan off for the first 3mm, and down to 75% for the rest of the print to try to help the layers adhere better. Any suggestions? I've also tried a range of temperatures from 195-210, but it doesn't want to melt below 200, and heated bed from 70-85 which hasn't seemed to make that huge of a difference.

4 years, 1 month agoguitartoys posted on 3Dprinting.
June 5, 2015

Hi, I've been using the Microcenter Glow in the dark without any problems. Since getting on the flashforge board, and seeing everyone praise printing on glass, I've only printed on glass. And with huge success. Will never print on anything else. Just go to a glass store, and get cheap window pane glass cut to fit. You will need a Z axis shim. Also, you might need some bed corner clips. Use some thermal pads between the glass and your bed. Lots of people use this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52?psc=1&redirect=true&ref=odaui_detailpages00

Then use Aquanet Unscented Extra Super Hold in the purple can (yes, that specific).

Make sure your bed is level.

I print with my bed at 50C, and nozzle at 220.

I always use a nozzle cooler http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

And if you are printing without infill (hollow, only the shell), you will likely need to add some additional cooling, for which I use two of these, on the slowest setting. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:631171

Has anybody used epoxy to attach glass to your heated bed? [R]

5 years, 6 months agocapnfluffybunny posted submission on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 3, 2014

I'm trying to find an easy way to attach a glass overlay to my heated bed and I'm considering epoxying a piece of glass directly to the bed. Has anyone tried this? JB Weld is an epoxy rated to 260 C and available at home depot.

I plan on putting down kapton tape on the bed, then putting on a layer of epoxy, clamping it in place and letting it sit overnight. This would be only semi permanent because hopefully the kapton would make it so that no epoxy actually touched the metal bed and I can remove the glass later with a scraper or knife. Yes, this would probably ruin the glass and kapton but hopefully preserve my bed.

Thoughts?

FYI, I have a solidoodle 2. I would try to drill inset holes in the glass and screw it on... but that would like a lot of work and I doubt I could do it with sufficient precision without buying a drill press and a specialty bit. There are a few glass bed holders for solidoodle on thingiverse but none that look easy or durable enough for me. The bed leveling will be preserved by installing thumb screws on the bottom since the glass will cover the tops of the screws.

Edit: also adding that I don't really find binder clips acceptable because it takes up too much printable bed space and I don't care to maneuver my print around around them while releveling the bed.

5 years, 6 months agocapnfluffybunny posted on 3Dprinting.
Jan. 4, 2014

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=ohdetailso00s00i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the link, just cut it to size with scissors and it holds the glass to the aluminum plate pretty good. I have been using it for the past few days no problem.